The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1541 
Building a Greenhouse 
Part II. 
Succession Crops. —A house 20 ft. 
wide should be at least 5 ft. high at the 
eaves, even a foot more will do uo harm. 
This height is not absolutely necessary 
where the growing of vegetable plants is 
the only use planned for the. house. _ You 
may think this is all you will use it for, 
leaving it stand idle for the remainder of 
the season—and soon as the plants are 
out of the way you will begin figuring 
on the crop that can be put in to keep 
the house in the notion that it is doing 
its share toward helping you solve the 
high cost of ordinary living—and likely 
Chrysanthemums will be the choice. Soon 
as they are out of the way you will look 
around for something else to do, and final 
ly decide on a crop of radishes or Grand 
Rapids lettuce. When these crops are 
harvested the season for the vegetable 
plants will be around again, and so it 
goes. The regular farmer, who does not 
grow tobacco, can finish up his work when 
the ground begins to freeze in the Fall, 
and then with the exception of feeding 
the stock occasionally, and milking the 
cow several times, and gathering the eggs, 
take a good long holiday till the frost is 
out of the ground in the Spring. Think 
of the time to read, play checkers, swap 
information, go to the movies, and have 
a good time generally. We poor mortals 
who have a greenhouse or two to enter¬ 
tain us, have no leisure period; it is just 
work today, tomorrow, next week, and 
before we know it the date is today a 
year hence, and then we realize that we 
have not had a vacation. This is why 
I would strongly reconr id anyone con¬ 
templating the erection it a greenhouse 
to build it substantially, and high enough 
at the eaves to grow a rather tall crop, 
for soon as you have the house you will 
be as bad as all the others of us—sitting 
up nights studying how to keep it work¬ 
ing overtime. 
Materials. —If you use a wooden 
eavesplate try to use 2-in. iron pipe for 
posts, and concrete side walls several feet 
high, and 5 in. thick. These walls can 
be made of sifted ashes of soft or bitumi¬ 
nous coal, not anthracite coal ashes. One 
part Portland cement to seven parts ashes 
is the proportion we usually use, and our 
walls are giving very good service. Above 
the concrete wall should be about 3 ft. of 
glass. Better have sash made to contain 
3Giu. of glass, then hinge them to the 
eavesplate, and at the bottom fasten an 
iron bar to the sash with a staple. This 
bar should be flat, about ^xl in., and 
have half a dozen holes drilled through it 
several inches apart. Place a wooden sill 
the same arrangement on the ventilating 
sash at the ridge of the house if you do 
not care to go to the expense of installing 
a regular ventilating appliance. These 
ventilating machines can be procured for 
the side sash too, The glass most gen¬ 
erally in use is 16x24 in., though any 
size around 16 in. will do. 
Glazing. —A very high grade of putty 
is placed on the rabbet of the sash bar, 
and the lower light is pressed down tight 
zinc glazing nail should be driven into 
the bar firmly, then another nail halfway 
up the light. Do not try anything but 
the best zinc nail, which can bf purchased 
especially for glazing from any seedsman. 
Put two of these nails at the bottom of 
the lower light to keep it from slipping 
from place. Use only tinned or gal¬ 
vanized nails in erecting the frame. 
Location. —Try to secure a location 
that is somewhat sheltered from prevail¬ 
ing winds, though this is not essential, as 
you will want to depend on your heating 
plant and not your location when the 
temperature chases the mercury out of 
sight. Houses running east and west are 
preferable if it is possible to build in this 
direction. Those iron posts can be fas¬ 
tened to the eaves with flanges. The 
better construction is fhe iron eaves fur¬ 
nished by the builders of commercial 
greenhouses. elmer .7. weaver. 
Pennsylvania. 
Details of Greenhouse Construction, Reduced One-half 
on top of the concrete and in this sill in the putty. The next light is lapped 
fasten a peg to fit the holes in the bar. over the first one a quarter of an inch 
In this manner you can open these side or less, and so on till you have the row 
sash as wide as you wish. You can use finished. At the bottom of each light a 
Controlling Curculio 
We have a large blue plum, blossoms 
and “sets” freely, but when the plums 
are about half-grown there is a large 
black wasp-like insect that comes along 
and stings them. It does not touch the 
plum except to sting them; then the 
juice oozes out and the plum rots and falls 
off in a week or two. We have had only 
one crop of p. ms in 10 years. F. c. M. 
Trumbull Co., Ohio. 
The injury is caused by curculio—a 
small, brownish or gray, hard-shelled, 
snouted insect that punctures the newly- 
formed fruits at the time of egg-laying. 
The destructive work of the curculio may 
be prevented in a great measure by thor¬ 
ough spraying, as also may brown rot of 
the plum, which often practically destroys 
the crop later in the season as the fruit 
approaches maturity. Tim use of arsenate 
of lead in combination with Bordeaux 
mixture (copper sulphate, lime and 
water), will control these destructive 
agencies and give an abundance of fine 
fruit. The Ohio Experiment Station, 
Wooster, OMo. issues a spray calendar 
that contains many excellent and standard 
formulas for spraying fruit trees and 
plants in combating iusecr? and diseases. 
This publication will be sent free to all 
who write for it. The description of the 
plum is inadequate to enable us to de¬ 
termine with any accuracy as to the va¬ 
riety. F. H. BALLOU. 
The HARTLEY 
The BRYANT 
The AVON 
The HAMILTON 
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