1574 
The RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
October 25, 1010 
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Garden Notes From New England 
Part I. 
Poor Potato Crop. —It is most dis¬ 
heartening to dig the potatoes which one 
has depended upon for his Winter’s sup¬ 
ply, and to find half of them rotten. It 
is even more discouraging if a large field 
is being grown in a commercial way. 
This, however, has been the experience of 
farmers and garden makers in New Eng¬ 
land this Fall. It has brought some of the 
latter to a realizing sense of the uncer¬ 
tain nature of the farmer’s business. In 
some instances the potatoes have been 
so badly decayed that digging them has 
not been worth while. Whereas only a 
few weeks ago New England seemed like¬ 
ly to have a good crop of potatoes, it is 
now going to be very short, and growers 
are being urged to place their orders for 
seed potatoes immediately. The cause of 
the trouble is doubtless the unseasonable 
rains. The rainfall has been much greater 
than normal and has resulted in the rapid 
spread of late blight. My own potatoes, 
growing under straw, have suffered along 
with the others, but have been no worse 
than those grown by the more common 
method. As a matter of fact, other vege¬ 
tables besides potatoes have been injured 
by the wet weather. At a recent vege¬ 
table show in Boston, gardeners found it 
difficult to get enough good specimens of 
carrots, beets and turnips to make a 
proper exhibit. Even parsnips have 
cracked in the ground. 
Unique Feature of Fruit Show.— 
The New England Fruit Show is to be 
Tender Shrubs Protected by Evergreen 
Bouyhs 
leid at Providence this year, and one of 
the features promises to be of more than 
usual interest, at least if it works out 
according to the plans of the projectors. 
This feature is to be the briugiug together 
of the growers and sellers, with the 
thought that both may profit by an ex¬ 
change of ideas. Wednesday, November 
12 , has been set as the day for the talk- 
fest. The managers of the show will 
have men on hand to introduce the two 
ends of the business to each other, and 
are arranging for practical talks which 
will be of benefit, at least to the growers. 
These New England fruit shows have 
proved a decided success iu the past, and 
there seems good reason to believe that 
the improvement in the quality of the 
apples offered, as well as the increased 
demand for New England grown fruit, 
can he traced to their iuflueuce. 
Winter Covering. —It is sometimes a 
problem to find enough material for cover¬ 
ing the strawberry beds without going to 
some expense. Straw, of course, is ideal, 
but straw costs money. After all, though, 
it stands the weather much better than 
might be expected. The straw which I 
used all Summer ou my potato patch is 
plenty good enough now for covering the 
strawberry beds. What I started to tell 
about, though, was the plan of a man iu 
southern New Hampshire, whose place 
I visited some time ago. This man has a 
good-sized field of strawberry plants, as he 
finds a good market for the berries among 
Summer visitors. As a covering for the 
beds, he uses pine needles almost ex¬ 
clusively. These needles are easily ob¬ 
tained in the woods nearby. At first he 
tried putting them ou by hand, hut that 
demanded too much labor. Then the idea 
occurred to him of utilizing the manure 
spreader for the purpose, aud the result 
was very satisfactory. The spre. tier scat¬ 
ters the needles evenly and at just about 
the right depth. Very little hand work 
is needed to complete the job. Amateurs 
often make the mistake of covering the 
strawberry beds too early in the season, 
with the idea, apparently, that they 
should keep out the frost. Of course this 
is wrong. The real purpose of covering 
the beds is to prevent the alternate freez¬ 
ing aud thawing, which has a tendency 
to heave the plants out of the ground, 
thus exposing the roots to the drying 
winds. A bed can be ruined very quickly 
in this way. The right time to cover the 
plants is after the ground has frozen 
slightly. 
Garden Protection. —The use of Win¬ 
ter coverings in general is not well under¬ 
stood by everybody. One often finds beds 
or borders of perennial plants so thickly 
covered with leaves or some other ma¬ 
terial that the plants are sure to be 
smothered or else made to decay. Leaves 
are never wholly satisfactory because they 
pack too solid when wet. A loose litter 
is more desirable. Sometimes, though, a 
few leaves serve the purpose well if some 
pine boughs can be placed on top. There 
is no better way of protecting tender 
shrubs than by binding some pine boughs 
around them. Tying them up with straw 
is a poor plan. Little is gained even by 
using a heavy straw overcoat for roses. 
It is much better to hank them up with 
earth a foot high. They may possibly 
freeze hack to the top of the mound, but 
they will need cutting back in any event, 
and they are not likely to be killed out¬ 
right, unless the weather is extremely se¬ 
vere. In many section this plan will do for 
Hybrid Teas as well as Hybrid Fer- 
petuals. Of course Tea roses are too 
tender to be left out of doors unless they 
are boxed over. They can he dug up and 
buried or taken into a cool cellar. If 
one has a small bed of roses set close to¬ 
gether, it is a good plan to stand boards 
on edge around it and to fill the space 
inside with leaves a foot or two deep. 
Evergreens. — Rhododendrons often 
suffer because the right kind of protection 
is not given them. They, too, should be 
banked high with leaves. In ordinary 
seasons it is well to give them a heavy 
watering in the Fall, but probably that 
will not be needed this Fall. The muleh 
of leaves should never be entirely re¬ 
moved from the ground around the Rho¬ 
dodendrons. It is needed in Summer as 
well as in Winter. After all, though, the 
loss of Rhododendrons is most likely to 
come from exposure to the sun in early 
Spring, growth being started too early. 
For that reason it is well to plant them 
where they will he shaded from the sun 
in the middle of the day, or else to use 
boards or pine houghs for protection. 
E. I. FARRINGTON. 
Frosted Tomatoes 
Cau you explain to me the condition of 
my tomato crop? I had a fine vield of 
tomatoes. Some cracked at the stem end. 
which we explained by heavy rains, fol¬ 
lowed by a long drought. The morning 
after a heavy frost I wetted them down 
before sunrise, but it was too cold. I saw 
ice forming, so picked all sizable to¬ 
matoes, put iu water, pulled the vines, and 
covered from sun, wetting thoroughly, still 
in the shade, as soon as it was warm 
enough. Would this explain their rot¬ 
ting? D. M. C. 
Lancaster, N. II. 
The tomato is of tropical origin and 
has and probably will always remain a 
tender plant. For this reason when it is 
frostbitten nothing can he done to restore 
it to a pre-frosted condition. The frosted 
fruits will soon decay in spite of all that 
can be done to restore and save them. 
Those in the other part of the garden that 
escaped injury were uo doubt iu a fav¬ 
ored spot, and did not get as heavy frost¬ 
ing as those that were destroyed. In my 
own garden this happened repeatedly. 
The tender things, such as tomatoes, Dah¬ 
lias, Zinnias, etc., at the lowest point be¬ 
ing injured beyond recovery, while those 
on ground a few feet higher and not over 
200 ft. removed from those injured es¬ 
caped without injury. The tender things 
on low ground are always the first to he 
injured or killed by frost, unless specially 
favored by hedges, buildings, etc. k. 
