1620 The RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
The Home Dressmaker 
Simple Juvenile Styles.— The two 
little frocks shown in the first picture are 
very plain, but show the prevailing ten¬ 
dencies. The dress at the left is jersey 
cloth, which is used this Autumn more 
than ever before for children’s dresses, 
especially in dark blue. The dress shown 
is a one-piece slip, fastened down the 
shoulder and under the arm. A cluster 
of tucks came down from the shoulder at 
each side, ending under the slipper-shaped 
pockets. The round neck and the top of 
the pockets were trimmed with embroidery 
in rope silk, rose pink and willow green, 
merely a simple band formed of a large 
cross stitch with dots at each side. The 
sleeve was finished with three tucks at 
the wrist. In this elastic material the 
tucks do not lie flat, but stand up more 
like cords. In the back the tucks went 
down to the waist line, 
which was encircled by 
a flat narrow belt of the 
material. Such a dress 
is very serviceable. 
Some of the jersey cloth 
juvenile frocks have no 
trimming at all, and are 
really as plain as an 
old-fashioned wrapper. 
The little dress pictured 
at the right is also dark 
blue, in this case taf¬ 
feta. It is a model that 
would be desirable for 
challie or other soft 
woolen, with taffeta 
trimming. The straight 
gathered skirt is slight¬ 
ly shirred in at the bot¬ 
tom, into a straight 
band, with a little orna¬ 
ment of cording on the 
band on the side. The 
plain waist is covered by 
a broad accordion-pleat¬ 
ed bertha of the silk, so deep in front and 
back that it comes just below the waist line. 
A ribbon of bright blue is slipped through 
two slots in both back and front, holding 
down the bertha as shown, the ribbon be¬ 
ing fastened underneath. The sleeves are 
finished with turned-back cuffs of accor¬ 
dion pleating. This dress would be very 
pretty in woolen material, plain or fig¬ 
ured.' trimmed with pleatings and band 
at the hem of silk, taffeta being prefer¬ 
able. A figured challie with a dark blue 
ground, the figure or dot of red or other 
contrasting color, would be very attractive 
with dark blue taffeta trimming. 
BLUE WniPCOun.—In the second pic¬ 
ture the dress at the left is dark blue 
whipcord, very plainly made, but given 
noveltv bv a trimming of worsted fringe 
and cloth loops. The plain waist, fas¬ 
tened invisibly 
down tile shoul¬ 
der and under 
the arm, is cut 
square at the 
neck and then 
cut. into a square 
vest below. 
Across this vest 
are several rows 
of black worst¬ 
ed fringe, about 
mi inch wide, 
this vest coming 
just below the 
waist line, where 
the skirt is 
seamed on. The 
four-gored skirt 
has hip pockets 
headed by 
straps, w h i c h 
stand out a lit¬ 
tle from the 
skirt. Below the 
pockets, on each 
side, loops of 
the cloth, like 
flat bow ends, 
are set into the 
seam, extending 
about to the 
knees. These 
loops are among 
the newer trim¬ 
mings, and are 
used quite free¬ 
ly. The sleeves 
were trimmed with fringe finished by a 
loop. The hat worn was a small shape 
of black hatter’s plush, the brim turned 
up from the face, and slightly fluted. 
Crepe de Chine. —The simple bur ef¬ 
fective gown in the center was all black, 
the skirt of crepe de chine and the waist 
of satin, sleeves and all. The loop trim¬ 
ming was black moirg ribbon. The waist 
was perfectly plain, the round neck col- 
la rless. and only trimmed by a bow of 
moir£ ribbon, with long ends, in front. 
There was a long-waisted folded girdle, 
and the long sleeves had two rows of 
moir£ loops set in with a little tuck. The 
skirt of crepe de chine was gathered at 
the waist and also slightly gathered into 
a narrow satin band at the bottom. There 
were two rows of moir£ loops around the 
bottom, one row set into the satin band, 
and one row above it. At each side were 
three vertical rows of moir£ loops, the 
tows about four inches apart. The row's of 
loops extended from the top of the skirt 
to the satin band at the bottom, forming 
a panel down each side. The upper row' 
of loops around the bottom was omitted 
at the sides, where it met the vertical 
loops forming the panel. The skirt was 
not excessively narrow, the gathering in 
at the bottom being just enough to give a 
slightly pegtop effect. This was a very 
attractive dress, and gives a good sugges¬ 
tion for trimming. Loops of taffeta would 
form a desirable trimming on a cloth 
dress, and it often happens that one has 
on hand material that can be used in 
this way. The hat worn in this picture 
is a small shape in panne velvet, trimmed 
with a wreath of glyeerined ostrich 
feathers. 
A Simple Evening Dress.— The farm 
girl who goes to college, or who is likely 
to make Winter visits to city friends, 
feels the need of an evening dress. Those 
who form their ideas of style from the 
exaggerated models so often pictured are 
likely to think all fashionable evening 
dresses thoroughly im¬ 
modest. and it is true 
that custom permits 
such styles without com¬ 
ment, but. like every 
silly or vulgar fash¬ 
ion, no one is obliged 
to wear them against 
her will. The exten¬ 
sive use of net and 
lace at the present time 
permits pretty and 
modest styles for eve¬ 
ning wear that are 
quite dressy enough for 
ordinary dances and re¬ 
ceptions. The dress pic¬ 
tured is gold-colored 
messaline draped v'ith 
golden-brown net. The 
under-dress of messa¬ 
line was all made and 
finished first, fastening 
invisibly at the left 
side. The satin slip 
had short plain sleeves, 
both sleeves and neck being finisher! with 
a cording. Flowing angel sleeves of net 
extended from the satin upper sleeve, and 
the net was draped around the bodice and 
over the shoulders, fastening up over the 
foundation with snap fasteners. The full 
gathered net skirt was caught up at the 
sides to form paniers. In the front there 
was a little silk embroidery in brown and 
green rope silk at the top, where the mes- 
saline bodice was left uncovered by the 
net draping, and a metallic ribbon of gold 
embroidered in green and rose formed a 
loose belt. With this dress was a scarf 
of brown net. finished at the ends with 
a brown and gold chenille tassel, which 
was very pretty and graceful. Gold-col¬ 
ored silk stockings and bronze satin slip¬ 
pers finished the costume. This dress had 
an airy gracefulness very becoming to tdie 
slim wearer; it 
was not perish¬ 
able, for silk 
net wears sur¬ 
prisingly well, 
and it was both 
modest and sty¬ 
lish. If a lighter 
color was de¬ 
sired. a founda¬ 
tion of rose 
pink (not old 
rose) draped 
with pale blue 
f or nile green is 
attractive with 
silver trimming, 
while a fair girl 
who looks well 
in black will get 
the maximum of 
service from 
such a drees 
m a d e all in 
black — black 
Brussels or 
point d’esprit 
net or black 
lace, over black 
messaline, with 
girdle of gold or 
silver ribbon, 
and a little 
beading or em¬ 
broidery to cor¬ 
respond. An all¬ 
black evening 
d r e s s has a 
smart look, and is economical; while not 
too dressy for afternoon affairs, it can 
be adapted to evening use also. One yery 
pretty dance frock of black Chantilly lace 
over black satin had girdle and little 
trimmings of French blue velvet ribbon. 
The full draped skirts are very attractive 
in this lace. Such a dress for a young 
girl was seean, readymade, for $39.75. 
Long white or cream gloves are now very 
expensive, but it pays to get a good make, 
and have them regularly cleaned by a 
professional. If any break in seams is 
neatly mended, and they are carefully 
stretched out in folds of tissue paper 
(never rolled up) they last indefinitely in 
the moderate wear given them in the eve¬ 
ning. At the present time the shops show 
many elaborate headdresses for evening 
wear, but they are out of place with a 
simple gown, though a narrow fillet of 
metallic ribbon can often be arranged very 
prettily if suited to the style of hair¬ 
dressing. 
Notes and Novelties. —Some of the 
new veils have a single large- splashy 
figure, to be placed where most becoming. 
A rather coarse square mesh is especially 
fashionable in veiling; we also see some 
with old-time chenille dots. 
Cloth-top shoes are in fayor, and but¬ 
toned shoes are "in.” Oxfords will be 
worn with spats more than ever, a nat¬ 
ural result of the high price of leather 
shoes. Cut steel buckles make plain 
leather pumps very good looking. 
Separate skirts of plaid or check are 
very much used by all ages. Girls of six 
to 12 wear them with middy or Russian 
blouses, while older girls wear them with 
sports coats, or the coat of a tailored 
suit. 
Metallic ribbons are seen in great 
variety, some plain gold, silver or steel, 
others combined with colors. Many are 
metal embroideries on satin. They are 
used in dress trimming as well as milli¬ 
nery. 
Collar and cuff sets and vestees of brushed 
wool are an Autumn novelty, worn in place 
of fur. The colors rae mostly tans, white 
and brown. Wide “sweater scarfs” of 
brushed wool are made with a belt to 
hold them down in front, pa.ssing around 
the waist, and are so wide that they cover 
the wearer like a shawl. The ordinary 
knitted scarf of plain or brushed wool is 
very popular for women’s wear. 
Very handsome imported velveteens are 
24 to 44 inches wide, $3.50 to $6 a yard. 
One of the new colors seen in velveteen 
is Turkey red, one of the soft rose reds 
shading on henna ; another is Belgique, an 
attractive blue. This fabric is especially 
attractive in wine, mulberry and wistaria 
shades. 
Very narrow belts of patent or colored 
leather are worn on dresses, suits and 
coats. 
Hand bags of brown or sand-colored 
duvetyn, embroidered in contrasting che¬ 
nille, are a novelty, supplanting the 
showy but serviceable bead bags. Duve¬ 
tyn bags are expensive; some were noted 
at $30 to $40. 
Plain sailor hats of hatters’ plush in 
black, brown, blue or purple are fashion¬ 
able for walking and general wear. 8ome 
are faced under the brim with white. 
There are some small hats,of velour or 
hatters’ plush faced with beaver. All 
these small walking hats are without 
trimming other than a band and flat 
bow. Feather hats include many turbans 
and small shapes in pheasant feathers, not 
only the brown and golden shades, but the 
brilliant reds and greens of Asiatic pheas¬ 
ants. Vivid coppery reds and terra cottas 
are favored in hats of panne velvet and 
duvetyn also. 
Chocolate Cake.—One-half cup butter 
substitute, one cup white corn syrup, two 
eggs, one-half cup sour milk, two cups of 
flour (one wheat and one barley), one 
teaspoon soda, two ounces chocolate, one- 
half teaspoon vanilla. Cream the butter 
and syrup, add beaten yolks of eggs, then 
the sour milk and dry ingredients alter¬ 
nately. Mix well and fold in stiffly beaten 
whites of eggs. Turn into well-greased 
pans and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 
40 minutes. 
November 1, 19 to 
10/ien tHeVoctor 
IsFarAwcaf 
When the doctor is ten 
or twenty miles away, it’s 
a mighty comforting feel¬ 
ing to know you’ve got a 
jar of Musterole handy in 
the house. 
For first aid in many ill¬ 
nesses—for relief from colds, 
congestions, aches and pains 
—Musterole is uncommonly 
effective. 
It is better than a mustard 
plaster—gives quicker re¬ 
lief, and there’s no fuss, 
muss or blister. 
Just rub a little of this clean, 
white ointment on the aching or 
congested spot. Almost instantly 
you feel a pleasant warm tingle, 
then in a moment or two a sooth¬ 
ing, delightful coolness; bet way 
down deep underneath the cool¬ 
ness, good old Musterole gener¬ 
ates a peculiar heat which dis¬ 
perses congestion and sends the 
pain away. 
Musterole is made with oil of 
mustard and a few home simples. 
Try it for coughs, colds (it often 
prevents pneumonia), bronchitis, 
sore throat, croup, stiff neck, 
neuralgia, headache, rheumatism, 
lumbago, pains and aches of the 
back, sore or strained muscles, 
and chilblains. 
Many doctors and nurses recommend it. 
30c and 60c jars; hospital size $2.50. 
The Musterole Co., Cleveland, Ohio 
BETTER THAN A MUSTARD PLASTER 
When you ivrite advertisers mention 
The Rural New-Yorker and you’ll fret 
a quick reply and a "square deal. " See 
guarantee editorial page . : ; : 
r 
► 
millt 
L i 
For Fall Evenings 
Before YVinter sets in — to 
avoid starting the stove or 
furnace—make the evenings 
comfortable with a portable 
Perfection Oil Heater. 
The Perfection will provide a glowing 
warmth for 10 hrs. on a gallon of 
SoCOny kerosene—brings heat to 
the spot. 
Clean, safe, odorless, economical. 
Easily filled and re-wicked. No soot, 
no ashes. Used in over 8,000,000 
homes. 
Ask your dealer to show you a 
Perfection. 
STANDARD OIL CO. 
OF NEW YORK 
Mu iWP i 
PERFECTION 
0i] Heaters 
Two Juvenile Suggestions 
