1642 
‘Ihc RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
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UNION CARBIDE SALES COMPANY 
30 Eaat 42nd Street, 
New York City, N. Y. 
Dept. 102 
People’s Gas Bldg. 
Chicago, III. 
Kohl Bldg. 
San Francisco, Cal. 
003 
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Special Arrangements Made With Commercial Fruit and Vegetable 
Growers’ Associations and Granges. 
Address COOK & SWAN CO., Inc. 
141 MILK STREET 
BOSTON, MASS. 
Ge«. H. Frazier, Mgr. 
For Free Booklet 
Address, Sulco, Dept. R. 
148 FRONT STREET 
NEW YORK CITY 
[ 
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Grape Questions 
Neglected Vineyard 
Can Tine 11. X.-Y. help me to treat a 
neglected vineyard which recently came 
into my possession? Originally it occu¬ 
pied six acres, -‘l.OOO vines, reduced to 
2.BOO, vines, principally Concord, some 
Delaware and Niagara. It. is about nine 
years old and has made two full crops. 
’Flic blackberry bushes, volunteer grasses, 
Timothy and Hover took possession ; then 
fire went through it. The past year it 
was plowed thoroughly and planted to 
corn, two rows between the rows of grapes. 
There were only a few scattering grapes 
this year, although the vines appear vigor¬ 
ous. My sons, who will manage this 
farm, suggest several forksful of stable 
manure to each vine, and then hone meal, 
hut we would like to know the quantity. 
Then we would plant to vetch or rye, to 
be turned under in the Spring. c. Jr. 
Washington. I). O. 
The neglected vineyard presents many 
problems in ifs renovation, perhaps the 
biggest, one being getting it back again 
into good tilth. In this instance it ap¬ 
pears that this 1ms already been aceom- 
j plished, though perhaps rather heroic 
measures have been applied in so doing. 
If is the common practice with vineyards 
that have long been unplowed that the 
first return to cultivation be with the 
disk harrow rather than the plow. Then 
the next season a shallow plowing. The 
use of commercial fertilizers or stable 
manure has proven a wasteful practice 
I unless good tillage be practiced in con¬ 
nection with the fertilizing. 
Experiments covering several years 
with vineyard fertilization prove that 
similar results follow from (lie use of 
sufficient amounts of either the proper 
I commercial fertilizers or good stable 
manure. Five tons of good manure per 
acre per year has produced just as many 
grapes and as much wood growth as lias 
<’100 lbs. of nitrate of soda and BOO lbs. 
of acid phosphate when applied to soils 
of tin* day loam type. With the lighter 
soils It is apparent that a larger quantity 
of manure is needed to equal the above 
application of commercial fertilizer. Tn 
'either case a green manure crop should 
he employed. Tn order to get a maximum 
stand of Ibis it is necessary with our 
1 soils to apply the acid phosphate in addi¬ 
tion to the manure. Tn fact, the benefit 
derived from (lie latter material when 
applied in connection with nitrate of soda 
is largely in the better stand of the green 
manure crop. The question of which 
material to apply depends largely upon 
the cost and availability. With us good 
manure at a reasonable-cost is out of the 
question. An advantage not to he ignored 
in the scheme of fertilization is the avail¬ 
ability of (lie material for the vines’ use 
after its incorporation with the soil. 
With readily available forms of nitrogen 
carriers, as nitrate of soda and sulphate 
of ammonia, the sowing can he so gauged 
that it will he ready for absorption at 
the time when we believe that it will 
most influence the fruit, namely, about 
10 days before the blooming period. That 
is, an application of nitrate of soda made 
10 days before this period will he avail¬ 
able while the vine is in bloom. At this 
time one-half of the BOO lbs. is sown 
broadcast and harrowed in. About three 
weeks later the remaining loO lbs. is 
spread. The acid phosphate is broadcast 
some time previous to plowing and is 
turned down with this Spring practice. 
It is unwise to drop a few forksful of 
stable manure at the base of the vine, for 
such a method does not put it near the 
actively feeding root libers, nor does the 
subsequent cultivations over distribute it 
evenly. Applications of manure re¬ 
peatedly about Hu 1 base of the vine in¬ 
duce a strong development of fibrous roots 
in this region, while those away from 
this area are starved. After a time 
practically all the roots that function are 
the ones in this region, and as a conse¬ 
quence the anchorage of the vine in the 
soil is lessened and heaving is likely to 
result. F. E. ii. 
Mildew an Grapes 
We have three grapevines; a Concord. 
Niagara and Dela 'are, in their fourth 
bearing year. Tl. were well fertilized 
with cow manure =^st Fall, well pruned 
early in March, and when the blossoms 
came gave promise of a wonderful crop of 
grapes. They were kept free from in¬ 
sects by hand picking the few that ap¬ 
peared. The grapes formed and grew to 
two-thirds of their mature size, when, iu 
November 8, 191 p 
a high wind one night, the arbor blow 
down. This happened about the middle 
of July. The vines were immediately 
supported again, disturbing them but lit¬ 
tle. and for three weeks showed no signs 
of having been injured. About the middle 
of August growth stopped, leaves turned 
brown and soon fell, and from the Dela¬ 
ware and Niagara vines most of the fruit 
dropped. YY hut remained was a miserable 
specimen of what they should have been. 
The Concords ripened about half a crop. 
Was this a disease or injury from falling? 
Other vines in our town went the same 
way. Is the effect likely to'he permanent, 
or can we prevent a recurrence of this 
trouble by spraying? We hav.e not 
sprayed as yet. i. i„ ir. 
I.ynbrook. N. Y. 
From the description given it is suggest¬ 
ed that tin 1 trouble was possibly due t<> 
an attack of -downy mildew. It is of 
course impossible at this time and without 
specimens of the fruit to say positively 
that this is the cause. It is advised that 
the vines he thoroughly sprayed with a 
4-4-BO Bordeaux mixture, first just as 
soon as the blossoms have set. second 
about, two weeks later, and if there be 
evidences of the fungus, a third applica¬ 
tion should he made. The number of ap¬ 
plications after the first is to a large ex¬ 
tent dependent on the weather. Warm, 
moist conditions favor the development of 
the disease. Tn some localities and in 
some seasons five applications are neces¬ 
sary to control. f. k. gladwin. 
Winter Care of Grapevines 
Last Spring I set out 12 grapevii : 
they have made a good growth, and I wish 
to know how to prepare them for Winter. 
Greene, N. Y. vt.j.s. 
File only preparation that grapevines 
require for Winter is the covering with 
soil if tli(> region in which they are grow¬ 
ing is subject to severe Winter tempera¬ 
tures; that is. tho*se reaching minus 10 
degrees Fahrenheit for long periods. An 
occasional minus IS has not injured the 
buds if the wood was well matured. In 
order to facilitate covering, especially 
with old, rank-growing vines, it is best to 
prune them somewhat before so doing, 
nut do not prune as the vine should he 
cut tor tying up. Ir is well to leave three 
or more times the number of canes that 
will eventually be tied up. With vines 
planted last Spring the entire growth 
can lie readily covered. The vine is sim¬ 
ply bent to the ground and then soil is put 
over all the parts to a depth of four or 
five indies. In early Spring the earth 
should be removed before the heat has 
caused the buds to start. Then the vine 
should he pruned to suit, the ideas of the 
grower. At this stage of its life the cut¬ 
ting is usually hack to one spur of two 
Duels. F. E. GLADWIN. 
Keeping Celery 
Can celery he put into a two-foot 
trench to keep for the Winter? What 
is the best thing to cover it with? We 
have no good place to put it inside, so 
last year 1 covered it with leaves, but 
the most of it rotted. Would boards 
covered with roofing paper he good to 
cover over top? W. J. F. 
Ul)iou Springs. N. Y. 
Farmers in this section, who sometimes 
raise imperfectly blanched celery, replant 
it on its roots in a dark corner of the 
cellar, just before cold weather, often 
setting up hoards to hold the dirt, as 
they would iu the garden. I once did 
that, with excellent results. With no 
cidlar a trench is best. It is much better 
than a pit, for it does not need to be 
timbered to avoid caving in, nor hoard 
covering. . and it can he opened more 
easily. Select a spot where the water 
will not stand and dig a trench a foot 
and a half deep and wide. Set the celery 
in it. just before it would suffer in the 
garden and cover it with six inches of 
straw. Leaves are not good, for they 
soon get. soaked with water and become 
almost airtight. 'The problem is to give 
the celery air without letting it freeze. 
When severe weather sets in cover the 
straw with a foot of earth. Watch the 
result and remove some of the earth if 
the celery shows symptoms of scalding, 
hut replace it when a cold snap appears. 
Much of the celery coming into this mar¬ 
ket. is either more or less frozen or 
scalded, requiring a lot of work to make 
it salable. No exact amount, of covering 
can he depended upon in our variable 
YY inters. An average covering in the 
severe Winter of two years ago would 
have allowed the celery to freeze, while 
last Winter was .so mild that the same 
covering would have ruined the celery 
from scalding. The only safety is to 
open the troneli often enough to he ahead 
of weather change and change the cov¬ 
ering to suit. A temperature cau he 
commanded that will carry the celery 
through without coloring a leaf. It is by 
no means a root crop and must he 
treated with much more care. j. w. c. 
Buffalo, N. Y. 
