1686 
The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
November 15, 1919 
How to Convert Your Ford 
Into a Cozy, Closed Car 
You want the comforts of a Limousine when driving against 
bitter-cold winter blizzards. 
converts either a Ford Touring Car 
or Roadster into a machine that 
shuts out biting winter winds, and 
enables you to ride in comfort. 
The USTUS Limousette for Fords 
for touring ca weighs only 40 
pounds and for roadster only 20 
pounds. 
The practicability of this utility is 
evidenced by the fact that it can be 
used in connection with the stand¬ 
ard body and top of your Ford 
without making alterations 
Just a light touch operates the roll¬ 
er windows 
It provides clca* - vision front and 
sides—isfree from rattles and vibra¬ 
tion andean be installedin an hour. 
Better see the USTUS Limousette 
Dealer promptly f..r demonstra¬ 
tion of its advantages or write to 
your USTUS Distribute.- 
Price, for Touring Car $46.00; for Roadster $30.00, f o. b. _ '.roit 
DAFOE-EUSTICE COMPANY, Inc., Manufacturer s 
1166 W. Jefferson Ave. DETROIT, MICH. 
Distributors: 
UNIVERSAL MOTOR CO. USTUS CORP. of NEW YORK 
1012 W. Broad St. Richmond, Va. 1778 Broadway New York City 
Features of USTUS Limousette for Fords 
Provides closed car comfort in 
bad weather 
Is combined with standard Ford 
body and top without alterations 
Eliminates inconveniences of 
awkward side curtains. 
Instantly converted into open or 
closed car. Gives clear vision 
from front or sides. 
We also manufacture USTUS standardized,guaranteed Canvas Covers 
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It’s just what you’ve been 
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Conditions during the Fur Season of 1919-1920 
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ost Office. 
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[ When you write advertisers mention The R. N.-Y. and you’ll get a 
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Farm Mechanics 
Application of Stucco 
Will you tell me how to apply stucco 
finish in place of siding? Is there any 
preparation on the market ready mixed 
to apply, or must I mix cement and lime, 
and to what proportion? IIow can I pre¬ 
vent it from drying too soon and keep it 
from cracking? T. E. 
Honesdale, Pa. 
The use of stucco extends far back into 
history. The ancients used plasters made 
from mud and later from semi-hydraulic 
cements as protective coatings for their 
buildings. The nature of the materials 
then available limited their use to the 
warmer climates where the stuccos were 
not subjected to the destructive action of 
frost. With the advent of Portland ce¬ 
ment, however, it became possible to make 
a stucco mortar that moisture and frost 
plied as. soon as the first has set suffi¬ 
ciently to permit working on it. 7f a 
thick stucco is desired, the second coai, is 
scratched in the same manner as the fir t 
and the finish coat applied. Hair is useu 
in the first coat only. 
Where an old frame building is to he 
remodeled by the use of stucco the fur¬ 
ring strips are applied as for new con¬ 
struction, and the window and door 
frames set out where they will project the 
proper distances beyond the finished stuc¬ 
co, or the stucco may be carried around 
the casing, making a recessed window 
with no wood showing. The last coat 
may be finished smooth by means of 
troweling. A rough surface may be cre¬ 
ated by covering the finishing trowel with 
burlap or similar material, or various 
other effects may be produced by throwing 
on mortar with a paddle or broom, throw- 
STUCCO ON WOOD LATH 
Hoto the Rtucco Wall is Constructed 
would not penetrate and disintegrate it. 
and as its desjrable features have become 
recognized it * has come more and more 
widely into use. Stucco of today is a 
mortar made up of Portland cement, 
clean, dry and well-graded sand, and a 
small part of hydrated lime. This, wet¬ 
ted to a stiff mortar, and applied at once, 
before the cement can take its initial set, 
makes a hard, impervious coating, and a 
coating that is capable of taking a variety 
of finishes. 
The hydrated dime is lump lime that 
has been slaked by mechanical means, 
dried and left in the form of a flour-like 
powder, ready for use. It should be used 
rather than lump lime because it comes 
in convenient packages, so that it is easy 
to mix the proper proportion with the ce¬ 
ment. and there are no unslaked particles 
to slake after the stucco is applied and 
damage it. 
The Association of American Cement 
Manufacturers gives the following speci¬ 
fications for mixing stucco: “Mix with 
10 parts Portland cement one part hydrat¬ 
ed lime dry, measured by volume. Add dry, 
clean sand in proportions one pai t of ce¬ 
ment-lime mixture to two parts sand. 
Turn until mixture is of uniform color. 
Add necessary water to make a stiff plas¬ 
ter. For first coat on wire or lath, add 
1 lb. of good cow hair for each bag of 
Portland cement used.” A frame struc¬ 
ture built for stucco finish is erected in 
much the same way as any other good 
type of frame building, the chief precau¬ 
tions to take being to see that a good 
foundation is provided, and that the walls 
are made absolutely stiff and rigid by 
bracing, so that no cracks will develop in 
the stucco, due to settling or wind rack¬ 
ing. Frequently the boarding is applied 
diagonally to stiffen the walls, and where 
this is not done diagonal braces should be 
let into the inside of the studding to serve 
the same purpose. To secure warmth and 
dryness a good quality of building paper 
should be applied over this sheathing, ap¬ 
plying it horizontally, beginning at the 
bottom and shingling each layer over the 
one below. A good lap is allowed, and 
this should preferably be cemented down, 
both along the seams and over the flash¬ 
ings applied about the windows and other 
openings, every precaution being taken 
to prevent, the entrance of water about 
such openings. 
If metal lath is to he used, either metal 
furring strips or light rods are stapled 
vertically 12 inches on centers over the 
face of the building, arranging to have as 
many as possible come directly over the 
center line of the studs, and the lath of 
expanded metal is wired directly to this. 
It is good practice to dip metal lath and 
furring in a paint, kept constantly stirred, 
made from a mixture of cement and wa¬ 
ter, as this protects the metal and pre¬ 
vents rusting. 
When wood lath is used 2x%-in. fur¬ 
ring strips are used, spaced 12 in. on cen¬ 
ters. and these are also placed over .the 
studding as far as possible. The wood 
lath is nailed directly to the furring 
strips, and before application should re¬ 
ceive two good coats of a bituminous 
waterproofing. This coating should be 
applied not less than 24 hours nor more 
than six days before the lath is used. 
In applying the stucco, work is begun 
at the top of the wall and carried down¬ 
ward, permitting no breaks in the work 
except at the natural breaks, as window 
and door openings in the walls. This first 
coat, which should be from % to %-in. 
in thickness, should not be permitted to 
dry at the lower edge, hut the work 
should be carried over the surface to be 
covered in a continuous layer. While 
still wet this first coat is scratched deeply 
and the second coat, which should be from 
% to %-in. in thickness, should be ap¬ 
ing pebbles or sand into the wet concrete, 
etc. Colors can also be obtained by the 
use of suitable aggregates on pigments. 
Stucco, after application, must be pro¬ 
tected from the sun and wind to prevent 
too rapid drying. This can be accom¬ 
plished by hanging wet sacking or canvas 
over it, and by spraying. Slow drying is 
essential to good stucco. 
Stuccoing is hardly a job for an ama¬ 
teur. While it might be applied success¬ 
fully to a small building by a man that 
had had a little experience in the use of 
concrete, to insure a good job the services 
of an expert should he secured. The points 
to be observed in its application are only 
briefly touched upon here. Bulletins sent 
out by the Portland Cement Association 
describe, and with a great deal more de¬ 
tail. the manner of selecting aggregate, 
mixing the mortar, the preparation of the 
wall to receive it. and its application to 
the wall. They will he .sent free for the 
asking, and if one is contemplating stucco 
construction they are well worth studying. 
R. II. s. 
Improving Mail-box Signal 
Despite the fact that we country folk 
receive our mail over well-planned routes, 
many of us must have our mail box a half 
miie away from our homes, and often 
more. The accompanying drawings are 
of the device called the “mail signal.” 
which will often save the trouble of plod¬ 
ding through deep snows in Winter, mud¬ 
dy roads in Spring, and the hot roads in 
Summer, only to find the mail box empty. 
The face of the signal can be seen 
when painted white; hut in Winter, when 
the ground is snow covered it would he 
hard to see if the carrier had turned the 
signal or not. This difficulty may easily 
be overcome by placing two or three 
strips of dark cloth or paper over the 
white face of the signal, at say S or 10 in. 
apart. Another and better method would 
he to have the back of the signal board a 
dark color, and when the ground is cov¬ 
ered with snow the signal need only be 
reversed so that the dark side is shown 
when mail is put into the box. In order 
to make the changing quick and easy, an 
eye, such as used to fasten screen doors, 
feed bins, etc., should he employed on each 
side at A (see drawing). Ordinary fence 
staples used instead of eyes will be found 
very serviceable, providing care is taken 
not to split the wood while driving them 
in. The rod (No. 9 fence wire) connect¬ 
ing the flag and signal should be bent on 
signal end so that it may be easily hooked 
or unhooked when reversing the signal. 
The whole contrivance is quite simple and 
can be made by almost anyone. r. w. 
