ghe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1713 
General Farm Topics 
An Ohio Stove-wood Crop 
We secure the best satisfaction when 
using wood as a fuel for heating or cook¬ 
ing to prepare and saw the wood at least 
from six to 10 months ahead of the time 
it is to be used. In this manner the fuel 
becomes thoroughly dry and furnishes 
heat much more satisfactorily. In for¬ 
mer years farmers made a practice of cut¬ 
ting only the most valuable hardwood up 
simply for fuel, laying particular stress 
on hickory and oak. These woods, of 
course, produced an excellent heat, but. 
we find that practically any kind of wood 
will prove satisfactory if it is seasoned 
properly. 
Recently we cleared off a swamp area 
me to wait until but a few days before 
planting to do the plowing. a. c. 
The best time to apply lime to the soil 
is just after plowing. The ideal way is 
to scatter the lime on the rough furrows 
and harrow it thoroughly into the upper 
soil. This makes a good distribution, and 
puts the lime where it will do the most 
good. Some farmers use ground lime- 
stoire at any time during the Fall and 
Winter. We have known them to scatter 
it right on the snow, and plow it under in 
Spring. This saves time in making the 
application, but in most cases a better re¬ 
sult is obtained by using the lime just 
after plowing. We would not advise you 
to use lime on the potato crop. One of 
GcIIinn Ahead of tliG Coal Trust 
and had on hand a considerable quantity 
of elm, willow and ash. We stacked up 
the limb wood for a month or so and then 
sawed it with a circular saw. After it 
had been ranked for six months it was 
thoroughly dried: it now makes a good 
hot blaze, either for cooking or for use in 
the furnace. We burn a good deal of 
wood in the furnace because we have a 
good supply on hand, and find wood satis¬ 
factory when used properly; that is, one 
cannot fill a furnace pot full of wood so 
that a heavy, blazing fire results, and get 
the most heat from it. We find that we 
must follow the furnace directions care¬ 
fully to burn wood, filling the furnace pot 
only level full with the sticks. A wood 
fire in the furnace will take a good deal of 
replenishing, but it makes a satisfactory 
fuel when used in this manner. 
Wayne Co., O. c. M. baker. 
Fertilizer Formula for Slaty Loam 
My farm is composed of a slaty loam, 
underlaid with clay. I am engaged in 
fruit growing, and soil will grow clover 
to perfection. Will you give me the for¬ 
mula and cost of materials for a good 
fertilizer? I want to produce large growth 
of trees and vines. New York City horse 
manure costs me. delivered on railroad sid¬ 
ing. $4.50 per ton; have to haul and han¬ 
dle three times to get on the ground. < >f 
course 1 cannot grow clover, for we have 
to use clean culture, and 1 figured 1 would 
not got enough benefit to pay for clover 
seed, as we would have to turn under in 
April R- f. 
Marlboro, N. Y. 
The past season many fruit growers 
have used nitrate of soda and acid phos¬ 
phate with good results. Proportions vary. 
We have found 100 lbs. nitrate to 1100 lbs. 
of acid phosphate a good combination. If 
muriate of potash were available we would 
add 75 lbs. of it to the above-named mix¬ 
ture. If greater growth of wood is re¬ 
quired. use a larger proportion of nitrate. 
We think you make a mistake in not seed¬ 
ing a cover crop. Rye and Alsike clover 
or rye alone will make far more than 
enough growth to pay for seed and labor. 
Lime on Sandy Loam 
I am thinking of putting lime on about 
10 or 15 acres of sandy loam soil this Fall 
for potatoes next Spring. When do you 
advocate as being the proper time to put 
lime on the land, and about how much to 
the acre for potatoes? I expect to disk 
the field twice this Fall and let lie till 
Spring, waiting until just about 10 days 
before planting the potatoes, then plow, 
and disk several times. Will it pay me 
to put the potatoes out this way? What 
kind of potatoes would you advise me to 
use? I have all tractor implements to 
do the work in a very short time, allowing 
4 
the very first principle to be observed in 
the use of lime is the fact that potatoes 
do not respond to a lime application, : 
most small grains, grass and clover will 
do. The lime will be almost sure to in¬ 
crease the amount of scab on the potato 
crop, and will not be likely to increase the 
crop to any extent. It is a far better 
practice to use lime in the rotation at 
seeding to clover and grass, or when plow¬ 
ing under a sod for corn. The plan for 
working the soil is good. 
Planting with a Shovel 
An article on the planting of trees by 
the modified Striugfellow method men¬ 
tioned setting small trees as plants are 
often set. with a spade. May I suggest 
an improvement on the spade? For 15 
years, perhaps, my brother and I have 
used a round-pointed shovel for planting 
anything from strawberry plants to four- 
year-old pines and one-year grapes, cur¬ 
rants and asparagus. It is hard to de¬ 
scribe the motion. Take the shovel in the 
right hand, place the blade with edge to¬ 
wards you. and at an angle so your arm 
is nearly straight down when you stand 
erectdrive the shovel into the ground 
with your left foot, push the handle 
straight up in front of you, and you have 
just the right kind of a hole for any straw- 
1 wry or tomato plant. We carry the 
i 'ants in a pail with a little water and 
pick out the plant and straighten the roots 
with left hand while making the hole. 
The shovel is removed at the same time 
the plant is placed back of it. the dirt 
falls on the roots, which are spread out 
fan-shaped, and a toe or heel is used to 
press the dirt firmly about plant. When a 
strawberry plant is set like this it cannot 
easily In* pulled up. and we often test the 
sett ng by a new hand by pulling on the 
leaves of the plant, which should break off 
before the roots move. We hardly ever 
lose a plant, even in the dryest weather, 
and average about 2.0(10 in eight hours, 
though we can easily set 200 in half an 
hour. In setting currants or asparagus 
we make two cuts, the first parallel to 
row. the last at right angles, and very 
deep, bearing down on the handle till the 
dirt is loosened and a cavity formed, then 
straightening the shovel the plant is thrust 
down behind at the exact instant the 
shovel is removed. The plant is placed a 
little deeper than it should be. and then 
drawn up to the proper depth, thus 
straightening the roots and drawing the 
stem, if any. into the first cut made, so 
the plant will be erect. The dirt is then 
trodden hard over the roots. A good 
many plants could have been set while I 
have been telling this. 
It is a slick way to set pines, even 
among huckleberry and sweet fern and 
leaves, for no leaves and rubbish get in 
around the roots, as is apt to be the case 
when set with a mattock and the hands. 
The roots are down in nice fresh soil, ami 
the treading leaves a hollow to hold the 
rain. One man by this method will plant 
about as many pines as two men by the 
mattock and finger way, and do it a lot 
easier and better. henry l. edson. 
Massachusetts. 
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