W* RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1891 
The Home Dressmaker 
Fur Pockets and Short Sleeves.— 
Tho gown shown at the left in the first 
picture is a dark green velours trimmed 
rather oddly with gray squirrel. The peg 
top two-piece skirt had pockets on the 
hips, which were bound with gray squir¬ 
rel, giving a panier effect; below there 
was a row of cloth-covered buttons on each 
seam. The plain waist had a round neck 
with a squirrel collar at the back, com¬ 
ing around to the shoulder seams. A row 
of small cloth-covered buttons came down 
each shoulder and down the sleeves. The 
straight, tight sleeves were short, ending 
above the elbow, and were finished with 
Fur Trimmings and a Useful Waistcoat 
a plain turnback cuff. A narrow black 
ribbon, ending in some steel ornament’s, 
finished the front of the neck. These 
short, plain sleeves, often ending two 
inches above the elbow, are very much 
worn this Winter with afternoon dress, 
but make an expensive fashion, as long 
gloves are extremely costly. 
A Real Waistcoat. —The figure at the 
right shows a pleated skirt of black vel¬ 
veteen, worn with a sleeveless waistcoat 
of black and brown check velours. The 
velveteen skirt is attached to a waist lin¬ 
ing, and velveteen sleeves are set in this. 
The sleeveless waistcoat, which is fas¬ 
tened invisibly down the shoulders and 
under the arm, has a plain round neck; 
it comes below the waist like a basque, 
and is loosely wrinkled in at the waist 
line by a strap with a fancy buckle at the 
back.' This was a pretty girlish costume^, 
which, with a sable fox muff and broad 
scarf, made a handsome street costume. 
Using the same velveteen foundation, a 
sleeveless tunic of beaded Georgette, or 
a sleeveless waistcoat of satin trimmed 
with steel, jet or colored wool embroidery, 
would make another gown for dress occa¬ 
sions. Separate "Velveteen skirts sold as 
sports skirts can be thus combined with 
good effect. The hat pictured has a black 
satin brim and a crown of black and gold 
brocade. 
A Little Girl’s Frock. —In the sec¬ 
ond group the little girl’s frock is of white 
cotton gabardine. There is nothing spe¬ 
cially novel in its cut, but the trimming 
was so pretty that it is worth describing. 
It was embroidered in wool, the hem be¬ 
ing finished with a row of ehainstiteh in 
soft green. Standing up from this chain- 
stitch was a row of flowers, first pink, 
then blue, with green leaves. The flower 
is shown in detail in the insert above; 
it was merely a coil of pink or blue in 
Kensington stitch, with stem in the same 
stitch in green, and leaves in coarse satin 
stitch. The leaves could easily be made 
in lazy-daisy stitch if desired. The little 
yoke and cuffs are trimmed in the same 
way, and the result was a sweet little 
frock that! could be made very cheaply. 
Frills and Flounces. —Id the center 
is a young girl’s dress of Georgette, which 
suggests a pretty model for organdie or 
dimity. It simply 'consisted of a flounced 
skirt, short sleeves with two frills, and a 
round neck with double Pierrette frill. 
All the frills and flounces were bound 
with satin of the same color. The crush 
girdle was tied in a big bow, without ends 
in the back, and at one side of the front 
the girdle was finished with a little bunch 
of bright-colored flowers, tied with nar¬ 
row black velvet loops and ends. This 
style of dress is simple and girlish, and 
becoming to the growing girl who is “all 
arms and legs,” for it disguises her angu¬ 
lar contours, the bow at the back being 
becoming, as well as the flounces. It 
would be pretty in one of the colored voiles 
that are usually on sale in January and 
February, the frills and flounces being 
bound with satin. 
Black Satin. —A very dignified gown 
of black satin is shown at the right. The 
skirt had an apron trimming, extending 
to the sides, where it curved higher than 
in front, of passementerie that looked 
like filet crochet in heavy black silk. The 
waist was perfectly plain, with vest; 
round collar and turn-back cuffs of white 
embroidered Georgette. The cuffs and 
collar had embroidered slots, through 
which a narrow ribbon was threaded. 
The ribbon was dark blue on one side, 
gold on the other, with a crimson edge, 
and gave a brilliant touch to the dark 
dress. Such metal ribbons are often used 
in this way, and the effect is very good. 
The dress shown is sufficiently dignified 
for a middle-aged matron, but black satin 
is fashionable for all ages. We often see 
satin trimmed with loops of the same 
material. Sometimes the loops are out¬ 
lining the neck and standing up from a 
band at the hem of the skirt; sometimes 
they stand up from the top of the girdle, 
or outline panels down the sides. 
Notes and Novelties. — The regula¬ 
tion skirt length is 8% inches off the 
ground. The French dressmakers are 
cutting the skirts much shorter, about 15 
inches. The straight narrow skirt _ line 
continues, varied by drapery at the hip. 
Narrow bands of fur trim many dresses 
and blouses, otter, nutria, mole and dyed 
muskrat being frequently used in this 
way. A fur that has returned to fashion 
is gray krimmer. formerly much used for 
children. It now forms the trimming on 
many handsome dark blue suits. It is 
frequently used as a broad band, 12 
inches deep, around the edge of the coat, 
with deep cuffs and shawl collar; some¬ 
times the skirt has a fur band also. Such 
suits are made on very straight, plain 
lines. Hunter’s green is attractive, 
trimmed with krimmer. 
The woolen scarf is now a stole or 
shawlette. the latter name being given to 
a broad scarf with belt and pockets. The 
wool stoles, woven brushed wool, alpaca 
or camel’s hair, and also hand-knitted, 
cost from $2 to $12; “shawlettes” from 
about $5 to $20. There are also beauti¬ 
ful silk stoles, in stripes or solid colors, 
costing from about $5 to $18. e have 
seen the angora cloth that is often used 
for this purpose from $3.49 to $4.49 a 
J Spring hats shown by the wholesale 
milliners include what may be called 
pressed trimmings. A black net hat has 
a flat wreath of flowers or fruit put on 
the brim, and the crown covered with 
uncurled ostrich feathers the whole is 
then covered smoothly w r ith black net. 
The effect is not specially pretty, but it is 
novel and expensive. 
An Efficient First Aid 
It was a joyful surprise to me when 
I first found that my hands, badly soiled 
with stove-blacking, could be cleansed as 
if by magic when I rubbed them with 
kerosene and wiped them on a bit of 
worthless old cloth, afterward washing as 
usual. I had even avoided soiling the 
wash basin! Now. I not only use kero¬ 
sene. as most people do, to assist in re¬ 
moving paint and varnish from my hands 
or clothing, but also with stains of soot, 
machine oil, and dirt in general. Silk 
and cotton gloves may be washed much 
more easily, and with much saving of 
wear, if the tips of the fingers be mois¬ 
tened with kerosene before putting into 
water. The same is true of shirt wrist¬ 
bands, and the like. 
For removing naphtha blacking, gaso¬ 
line is needed; but in many cases where 
help in cleaning is required, kerosene is 
as effective as gasoline, and evaporates 
as surely, though much more slowly. I 
knew of a lady who was in despair over 
a best gown upon which kerosene had 
been spilled, not knowing that all she 
need do was to hang up the dress for 
some days, until the spot had disappeared. 
Even the odor soon vanishes, when it is 
used for cleaning sinks, finger-marked 
paint, »r any hard-polished surface. No 
patent cleaner approaches it in efficiency 
on a pine table-top, the bottoms of pana 
which have been set on the stove, or the 
bottoms of kettles. Give it a chance be¬ 
fore applying water, rubbing with old 
newspaper or cloth. Q. a. t. 
The Children’s Friend 
The portable Perfection Oil 
Heater is enjoyed by young¬ 
sters—they get-together with 
it—snuggle up to it at work or 
play. Cheery, instant warmth 
at a minimum expense. Use 
it all over the house. 
Perfection gives 10 hours of glowing 
warmth on a gallon of kerosene. Safe, 
clean, odorless—easily filled and re- 
wicked. Over 3,000,000 used. 
SOCONY kerosene gives best results. 
STANDARD OIL 
COMPANY OF 
NEW YORK 
PERFECTION 
OJ] Beaters 
j 
SAVE YOUR MONEY 
$ 3.98 
Fop this stunning, bright, 
soft, genuine leather shoe. 
Buy your shoes direct from 
our factory and save tunny 
dollars. This is only one of 
the many big values we are 
showing in our catalog R. 
We are selling shoes tor all 
the family direct from our 
factory to you at prices 
that will surprise you. 
Try a pair of these. You 
will surely be glad you did. 
We guarantee that the 
Shoes Must Please or tee 
refund Money. 
tVe pay 
delivery charges 
QUICKSTEP 
SHOE CO. 
BOSTON 
No. 22536 
QUICKSTEPPERS 
ALWAYS SAVE MONEY 
Send for Big Catalog R 
Why not save money? 
COFFEE 
3 1 lbs. of Best 
4 Combination 
(Ground Only) 
PARCEL POST FREE WITHIN 300 MILES 
r o combat the high cost of 
coffee we have combined the 
finest coffee grown zuith health¬ 
giving roasted cereals and the 
highest grade chicory. 
The flavor is delicious ! 
MONEY BACK IF NOT SATISFIED 
VAN DYK 
51 BARCLAY ST. t NEW YORK CITY 
Branch Stores Everywhere. 
Rely On Cuticura 
For Skin Troubles 
ill druggists; Soap25, Ointment 25 <fc 50. Talcum 2f>. 
•amnio onch freo oC “Cuticura, Dept. F» Boston. 
More com- 
rtable, healthful, convenient, 
i place of all outdoor toilet*, 
i gorms breed. Be ready for a 
cold winter. Gave a warm, 
,ry, comfortable, odorless 
in the house anywhere you 
it. Don’t go out in the cold. 
>n to invalids. Endorsed by 
health officials everywhere. 
Guaranteed Odorless 
Tho «mi »r. killed by * cheml- 
cal ..a watar in tha container. Emp¬ 
ty once a month as ea»r as oshss. 
The original closet. Guaranteed. 
THIRTY DAYS* TRIAL. Ask 
for catalog and price. 
ROWE SANITARY MFC. CO. 
’2T94 •»*» *W|.. Dslrsil, Mich. 
Ask about Ro-San Waahatand and 
Rollins Bath Tub. . 
N. Plumbinc B.QUlxad. 
Maple Syrup Makers! 
Profit by Adopting theM GRIMM SYSTEM 
S ECTIONAL pans with 
high partitions. 
Light and heavy cannot 
intermix insuring high¬ 
est quality with least 
fuel ami labor. 22 dif¬ 
ferent sizes. Write for 
catalog and state num¬ 
ber of trees you tap. 
GRIMM MANUFACTURING CO. 
619 Champlain Ave. Cleveland. O. 
KILL 
RATS 
NEW WAY 
In France, the world’s most famous laboratory 
lias discovered a germ that kills rats and mica 
by science. Absolutely safe. Cannot possibly 
harm human beings, dogs, cats, birds or pets. 
Quickly clears dwellings, factories, storage 
plants, barns, chicken houses, etc., with ho 
offensive after-effects. 
DANYSZ VIRUS-FREE BOOK 
Get our Interesting free book on rats and 
mice, telling about DANYSZ VIRUS and how to 
obtain some. Address, D. A. VIRUS LIMITED 
152 West 14th Street, New York. • 
KODAKERS-Attention! 
1 8x10 Mounted Enlargement. Prepaid 35c ■ 
Send Negatives. Excellent Devel. & Ptg. I 
SCHULTZ PHOTO SHOP, 122 Nassau St.. New York 1 
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