2(30 
CULTURE OF CHERRIES. 
cut flat with sharp edges, and raise the bark of the stock within the 
perpendicular bar clearly down to the wood; having opened these 
sides wide enough to admit the bark on which the bud is fixed, in¬ 
sert it flat against the wood of the stock, cut off the upper end of the 
bark attached to the bud, that the edges of the bark of the stock, and 
the bark of the bud meet at the cross-bar of the T; then bring the 
bark of the perpendicular bar over the bark of the bud until it has 
the appearance of ( c ) ; take a piece of well-soaked matting, and be¬ 
gin to bind an inch below the long bar, to an inch above the cross¬ 
bar; let this be done tightly and without twisting the matting as (d). 
In a month, if the bud lives, loose the bandage, and in about a fort¬ 
night afterwards, remove it altogether. 
They require no more attention till the following spring, when 
just as the sap begins to be in motion, head the stock down about 
half an inch above the bud, or it may be left about four inches long, 
and the shoot as it grows, may be tied to it by a bit of matting. 
In the following October, they may be planted in the situations 
intended for them. They thrive best in a moderately light sandy 
loam, on a dry bottom. The May Duke, however, will thrive in al¬ 
most all soils or situations; but in gravelly soils they seldom grow 
so freely, and are not uncommonly diseased. Walls, when any can 
be spared for the purpose, greatly improve the flavour and size of 
the fruit; an east or west aspect, or even a south for the first crop, 
and a north wall for the later ones. Plant standards in an orchard 
from twenty to twenty-five feet apart, and dwarfs against a wall about 
twenty feet apart. In the following April, when the buds begin to 
break, cut each plant down to within three or four inches of the 
place where it had been budded, thin out the shoots when they have 
grown an inch or two long, rubbing off all the ill-placed ones, so that 
not more than four will remain; lay these in at full length. 
For Espaliers and Walls, grafted trees are reckoned the best, cut 
them down in the same manner as budded standards, and train their 
branches out carefully, either in an horizontal or fan form, do not 
allow the spurs to become long, and stand at a great distance from 
the wall; when they begin to exceed three inches, cut them out : 
but the most advisable method is, to cut awav some of the old 
branches in the winter pruning, and train in a young shoot which 
will be filled with short spurs, and come into bearing the second 
year, when some more of the old branches may be taken off; and 
thus a regular supply may be obtained. The usual time for the first 
summer pruning, is about the middle or end of May, and the last in 
July; it is not advisable to be too lavish with the knife during the 
