330 
QUERIES AM) ANSWERS. 
produce more vigorous plants and consequently finer flowers, the year following. 
Applying this principle to my Rhubarb, I remove its blossom-buds in their ear¬ 
liest infancy, except when I wish to perfect a few of its seeds: this, however, I 
have rarely attempted, as like the Potatoe, it is much more speedily propagated 
through the medium of its roots than by sowing the seed. Whenever I have 
allowed a Rhubarb plant to ripen its seed, I have found it suffer in the vigour of 
its leaves, not only during the year of its flowering, but on the following year also. 
Edwd. Bavar. 
How does Mr. Hoare, of Sidlesham, Treat his Vines ?—As you are 
kind enough to answer the Queries of your numerous correspondents, or at least 
most of them, allow me to refresh your memory respecting the following, to 
which I have long been waiting for answers. At page 473, Vol. 1, your corres- 
deut Suffolk enquires as to the peculiar method of training the Black Ham¬ 
burg Vine on the open wall, practised by Mr. Hoare, of Sidlesham. Will he 
favour us with an account of it ? or would you be so kind as to do it for him ? 
Again, page 573, Vol. 1, does Mr. Mills mean that grapes can be grown on the 
spur system under glass only ? And which do you consider the best method of 
spur pruning; the one of cutting off the wood of the foregoing summer, below 
any visible eye or bud, as he recommends, or the one mentioned in Vol. 2, pages 
4 and 5, of pruning away all the foregoing summers’ wood but one eye. And 
would not this latter plan soon allow the spurs to be long, even more than a foot 
or two, and become very unsightly I Permit me also to add the following Que¬ 
ries.—Would not grapes, say the Black Hamburg, Frontignac, &c. ripen well if 
grown in pots, trained against a south wall during the summer months, and 
then took into a warm room, to be placed close to a window having a south as¬ 
pect ? Last year I purchased some fine Dahlias ready struck, but this year not 
having a hotbed or greenhouse in which to strike them, how must I manage 
them ? Would they succeed, if the roots were parted and planted once in the 
borders, or in a bed? If these Queries be not considered too trifling, or beneath 
your notice, answers to them next month, if possible, will greatly oblige a regu¬ 
lar Subscriber. Adolescens. 
Vines in Pots. —With reference to certain Questions proposed by Vigomi- 
ensis, page 281, respecting the treatment of Vines in Pots, the reply to Ques¬ 
tion 1st. is, That the pots containing the plants are placed on the front flue of 
a vinery, the year preceding their introduction into the house where they bear. 
Their distance from the upright glass is about six inches. 2nd. 1 seldom make 
use of the syringe, preferring to throw a little water occasionally on the flues. 
3rd. I repot the plants after the shoots are fully developed. 4th. The house 
containing the plants in bearing is a fruiting pine stove, and is kept at about 
the temperature of 60 degrees by night, and 70 degs. by day. During sunny- 
weather, I allow the heat to rise ten or fifteen degrees higher in the day time. 
5th. The quantity of water ought to be regulated by the state of the plant and 
other circumstances. A strong young plant will require much more water than 
a weak one. No rule can be laid down as to the stated times of watering. 
What I wished to be understood in Vol. 1, page 1 and 2, by directing to water 
so often in dry weather, was, that the plants would require examining as often 
as there stated. 6th. The plants complained of had not received the attention 
necessary, during the year previous to the trial being made, and probably might 
be deficient of roots, or the wood might not be sufficiently matured. I have 
