186 
Queries, Answers^ Remarks, ^c. 
and presenting’ their proper surface to the light j I allow the side shoots to 
grow, occasionally stopping them through the season; when the wood is ripe, 
the plants are exposed to the open air, until the season for introducing them 
into the house again. 
3. —The pots are placed under the garden wall; and the shoots nailed up to it, they 
are protected from frosts by a little long litter being laid over the pots. 
4. —I never re-pot a plant so long as it is inclined to produce a crop of fruit; when 
it fails, I cut it down, reducing the root to a ball of about nine inches di¬ 
ameter ; it is then put deep into the same pot again, and treated as before 
mentioned for the young plant. 
5. —The number of buds will be regulated by the treatment, in a great degree; if 
plenty of air and light is admitted as I before recommended, the shoots will of 
course make less progress, and a greater number of buds will be produced in a 
given length. I have observed from eighteen to twenty-four buds in the length 
of five feet. 
6. -—The kinds I term “naturally prolific” are the Black and White Cluster, the 
Black and White Muscadine, the Large and Small Sweetwater, the White, Red, 
and Grizley Froniignac, the Black Hambro’, the Black Constantia, the Black 
Ellison, and the Parsley-leaved Grape. 
7. —The Vines supplying the rafters are planted in the border, outside, in front of 
the house. This is to be recommended, as they are no doubt very much bene- 
fitted by the warmth from the chamber under the pit heating a portion of the 
border. 
S.—I never use,liquid manure, except in a diluted state, and this but seldom. I 
pay particular attention to the supply of pure water twice a day, and never al¬ 
low this to be the work of two persons. 
JFillerslei/, Scpt.Z, 1831. Geo. Stafford. 
Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Kitchfn Garden. —Pray whatdoes 
Mr. Bindley mean by recommending different kinds of Grapes to be grown in 
Vineries, situate in the North and South of England. I have attended to them 
in both situations for a number of years, and was never wise enough to know 
that the same kind of Grapes grown in a Vinery in the South, would not do 
precisely as well in the North. 1 should be extremely obliged to Mr. Bindley 
to state his reasons why they will not. Thos. Bland. 
Carlisle, Sept. 8th. 
Biennials & Perennials. —^Would not all biennials become perennials? When 
the seeds of biennials are sown in spring, they do not always bloom the same 
year, and at the conclusion of the season, the plant of one summer has produced 
a branch or branches, which will live through the winter, and flower the fol¬ 
lowing spring or summer, and then it dies. However, during the second sum¬ 
mer (in June or July) the plant besides producing fiowers,sends forth several 
shoots, such as the whole plant was the preceding summer. Now if you con¬ 
tinue to layer, or raise by slips or cuttings, minding only to take branches of 
the present year’s growth, they will not fail to make plants such as their pa¬ 
rent was the year before, which consisted only of a one year’s shoot and root, 
so that the branches produced upon a second year’s plant (if rooted) will just 
live through the winter, as well as the one year seedling did through the first 
winter ; so by propagation all biennials may become perennials. 
Doncaster, 18, 1831. S. Appleby. 
Budding China Roses. —Gentlemen, under the head “Flower Department” 
in the first number of your Register, you mentioned it was time for “budding 
all sorts of roses except China and its varieties.” 1 shall feel obliged, if you . 
will inform me when the proper time is for budding them. Yours, &c. 
An Amateur of Roses. 
Answer — The best time for budding the varieties of the China Rose is in the 
month of April, or at least as early as the bark will rise freely. Take off the 
bud formed the preceding year, with a small portion of the w’ood attached to it. 
