336 
V.—MOxVTHLY HORTICULTURAL CALENDAR, 
FOR JJ^^UAUY. 
JANUARY, is usually accounted the coldest month in the year, and in consequence of the in¬ 
tense frosts generally experienced at this time, little can be done in trenching the ground, &c. 
however, where any is left undug, make use of every favorable opportunity to throw it into 
ridges. Preimre dung for forcing Cucumbers, &c. when they are wanted eai ly. Be careful that 
the Pine pits experience no declension of heat;—or, the plants, by receiving a check, will most 
of them start prematurely into fruit, in the spring. 
FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 
Pruning and Nailing should now be attended to, at every convenient opportunity. Peaches 
and Nectarines, however, would be better delayed until the beginning of February, or at 
least until the buds have advanced a little? as pruning them too early, sometimes proves 
injurious, if the weather should afterwards be very severe. 
Strawberries for Forcing, continue to bring in about once a fortnight, as recommended last 
month. ' 
Peach Houses, where the fruit is wanted early, should not be delayed;—be careful, however, 
that the heat from the flues is very moderate at the commencement, or the probable con¬ 
sequence will be the loss of the whole crop of fruit.—(See Calendar for December.) If 
Peaches and Nectarines in pots, be placed along the flues, they will ripen their fruit at least 
three weeks earlier than those trained on the trellis. The houses closed at the end of No¬ 
vember, or beginning of December, will now be out in blossom, and by the end of the 
month the fruit will begin to set, they wilt now bear the heat from 60 to 6o degrees, by 
day.—Be careful not to syringe them while in blossom, but keep the flues very moist and 
give plenty of air during the day-time, and you may ensure a good crop of fruit setting, if 
the trees are healthy. 
Cherry Houses, should have the glasses put on in the beginning of the month, and a little fire 
put in the flue in order to dry up the damp; but be particularly cautious to give as much an¬ 
as possible, and never allow the heat to rise higher than from 45 to 50 degrees, Fahreinheit, 
for the first month. Cherries in pots, might also be placed over the flue, after the manner 
of Peaches; these would be earlier than those trained on the wall, although there is less 
dependance on a crop of fruit from pots. 
Vines. See pages 6, 185, 193, and 293. 
FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 
Mignonette and Ten-week Stock may be sown about the latter end of the month, in pots, and 
placed on a very slight hotbed ; the former in a light, sandy, maiden soil, perfectly free from 
dung. As soon as they appear, be cautious to give them plenty of air. 
Auriculas should be top-dressed the latter end of this month, or beginning of February. See 
page 57. 
Dahlia seed should be sown about the end of this month or beginning of next, and a few of the. 
old roots may be plunged in a little old tan, or a moderate hot-bed. See p. 145 aud 147. 
Tulip Beds will require occasionally sheltering, as recommended last month. 
Forcing. Continue to take into the stove, Roses, (see page 245 to 253.) Lilacs, Pinks, 
Hyacinths, &c., as may appear necessary. 
VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 
Cauliflower plants in frames, &c. must be well protected from frosts at night, and have plenty 
of air in the day time. 
Asparagus. Continue planting ne%v beds on a slight heat, as recommended last month. 
Lettuce plants in frames, &c. must be kept free from rotten leaves, or they will be liable to 
perish. 
Early Frame Peas, and Mazagan Beans should be sown in pans or boxes, about the latter end 
of this month, and placed on the flues of the stove, to transplant out for the first crop. 
Potatoes may be planted about the middle of the month, in sandy soil on a slight hotbed, or in 
boxes, ai recommended by Mr. Haythorn, page 312; in either case sow a thin crop of 
Radishes and Lettuce over them. 
Mushroom. Beds out of doors must be kept free from damp litter. After gathering the Mush¬ 
rooms. cover them well from the frost. See Calendar for December. 
Rhubarb Roots may now be regularly taken up and planted in an old Pine pit, or iu any .situa- ‘ 
tion where they will receive a slight heat; and if covered with pots like those used for Sea- 
Kale, the stalks will have pushed sufficiently for use in a fortnight. 
tt.Jevvitt, Printer, Dutlield, near Derby. 
