On the Cultivation of the Camellia. 
36S 
th«j are exposed, for instance, when tJie buds are nearly ready to expand, 
a sudden heat causes them to push forth too rapidly; and on the contrary, 
a decrease of warmth at that time, checks their gTowth;—and in both cases, 
causes them to fall. It is astonishing', how very easily the fiower-buds, when 
nearly ready to expand, are acted upon by either heat or cold j the variation 
of only a few degrees, will considerably alFect them, it is therefore absolutely ne¬ 
cessary that great attention should be paid to them at that time, particularly 
if it be in the winter season ; in the spring so much care is not required, as 
in general eaeh succeeding day is a little wanner than its predecessor; but in the 
winter months, when the weather is so changealde, and the plants are only excited 
by artificial means, the greatest care is requisite, in order to keep them from ad¬ 
vancing too much, and also to not allow the temperature to decrease, for fear of 
the flower-buds falling off. 
If it is desired to flower them only at the natural time in the spring months, 
they ought to be kept as cool as possible during winter; but as the Camellia is so 
easy of culture, if a moderate attention be paid to it, no flower can be better 
adapted to blow during the whole of the winter months, when but few plants cheer 
us by their expanding blossoms. Last season we had a plant of the Double White, 
in flower for six months successively : the temperature of the house it stood in 
during that time, was kept at about 55 to 60 degrees Fahr. by day, and from 50 to 
55 by night. 
Every precaution is necessary to prevent worms from effecting an entrance into 
the pots; if any do find their way in, as soon as it is observed, water the soil in 
the pot once or twice with a weak solution of lime and water, which will speedily 
cause them to come out. 
If the weather continues pretty favourable, that is, without frost or excessive 
rains, we do not take them into the house again until the latter end of September, 
or the beginning of October. We keep them in a cool situation till the bloom¬ 
ing season. 
The foregoing observations apply to plants that are to produce flowers at the 
usual season, but if they are wanted to flower in autumn or winter, it is necessary 
to put them in a growing state at least a month earlier in the spring. They should 
be got out of doors as early as possible in June, when they will be ready to be 
brought into the greenhouse or conservatory, to flower by the latter end of 
August. The heat required to expand the blossom buds is about 60 degrees Fahr, 
by day, and 50 degrees by night. If this be attended to, and the air never al¬ 
lowed to have a much greater or less degree of heat, the plants will continue in 
flow’er for a great length of time. It should also be mentioned, that by this heat 
the plants are not excited to grow. 
The Camellia is so universally admired, that most persons who have a taste for 
flowers, are anxious to cultivate it, hut many are deterred from doing so, by a 
supposition that unless they have a greenhouse or conservatory, they cannot pos¬ 
sess so desirable an object with any degree of satisfaction. Although this idea is 
very prevalent, it is by no means correct; as any person having only a tvvo-lio-ht 
frame, may grow it to perfection. It is well known, the Camellia is nearly hardy; 
some plants at Wortley Hall, have stood the intense frosts of several winters, with 
no other covering than a common garden mat, as also at several places in the 
north of England, they have stood some years with a similar protection. There 
is no doubt but iu Devonshire, and other places, either in the south or west of 
England, it would succeed pretty well, if trained against a wall, but a.s an open 
shrubbery plant we think it will never flourish in this country; he.cides, if it wfx^ 
to succeed so as to foi m flower luuis, at the lime it would come into flower the wea- 
