432 
ISfonthly Horth iiJLaval Cmlendar. 
Hardy Annvals. If the weather be very fine, commence sowins; for the general blow, at the 
end of the month ; but if tiie weather is cold^or wet, defer it until April. 
Tender Annuals. Commence sowing m pots, and place tlien in a frame on a slight hot-hed; or 
on the flues of the vinery, for Cockscombs and Balsams.—See pages (it) and 70. 
Forcing. Continue to take into the stove, Rose,.s, (see j)age246 to 253) Pinks, Carnations, &.c. 
for the final bloom, previous to the succession iu the open air. 
VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 
Peas, of all kinds, may now he sown, at diflerent times; that the crops may succeed each other 
(see Calendar for February) As soon as the last sowing appears above ground, sow again. 
Those sown in boxes last month, should be planted out in the beginning of this, if the 
weather is favourable, in a warm situation, for a first crop. 
Beans. Plant full crops of Long-pods, Windsors, &c. twice during the month; also, plant in 
a warm situation, those sown in boxes last mouth, for the first crop 
Carrots. Orange and Altringham Carrots, should now' be sown for the main crop. They thrive 
best in a deep rich light earth;—the best way of sowing them, is in shallow drills about 
nine inches apart. 
Parsnips for the main crop, should now be sown, (if not done last month) in the same way 
as recommended for Carrots. 
Spinach sown last month, will now begin to appear; as soon as this is observed, sow another 
crop to succeed, and continue to sow about every fortnight afterwards. 
Cabbage, S^c. Plant out from the winter beds, all the strong Cabbage plants, to come into use 
in June; and sow seed of the Early York, and Van Ack, &c. to come in for autumn. 
Red-Cabbage plants should now be planted out, if not done before; and seed sow u in 
the beginning of the month, for autumn and winter use. Sow a pretty good supply f)f 
Brocoli, Savoy, Borecole, &c. about the latter end of the month, for use in winter and 
spring. 
Cauliflower plants, wintered in frames, should be planted out on the quarters intended for 
them, at about the distance of two foot six inches apart. Also, not later than the middle 
of the month, sow some seed for a crop to succeed those sown last month. 
Celery sown last month, if large enough, prick out towards the end of this month on abed of 
rich soil, (see pages 289 to 291) or on a slight hot-bed; and sow more seed iu a warm 
situation. 
Lettuce plants that have been sheltered in frames, should now be planted out about a foot apart, 
and seed of the different kinds sow’n twice during the month. 
Radishes. In the beginning of the month sow full crops of the Scarlet, Short Top, &c. and 
about the middle or latter end, a few White and Red Turnip Radishes. 
Parsley. Sow about the end of the month, for the principal supjily, chiefly in drills. 
Scoreonera, Salsafy. Sfc. Sow in shallow drills about ten inches apart, towards the latter end 
of the month, for the main crop. 
Leeks. Sow a good crop in the beginning of the month. 
Onions. Sow the main crop early in this month, if not done in the last.—For directions, sec 
Calendar for February. 
Potatoes. Begin about the middle of the month to plant out the principal early crops. 
Sweet Bazil and Sweet Marjoram, should now be sown on a slight hot-bed, or on a bed of rich 
light earth, in a warm situation. 
Mustard and Cress. Continue to sow in boxes, &c. as recommended last month, and towards 
the end sow in a warm situation out of doors. 
Jerusalem Artichokes. Make new plantations of them In suitable situations, if not done before. 
Turnips. Sow a few Early Dutch, about the 20th of the month, and a larger quantity at the 
end, to succeed them. 
Beet. Sow the main crop, of the Red, for its roots; and a small quantity of White and Green 
for the leaves. 
Kidney.beans Continue to sow for forcing, as recommended last month. 
Artichokes. Give the proper spring-dressing towards the end of the month, and dig and level 
the ground between the plants. 
Asparagus, for forcing, continue to plant for the final crop, (see page 240) About the end of 
the month, fork and sju'ing-dress the productive beds This too, is the best time for plant¬ 
ing new beds ;—.select a piece of good mellow ground for the purpn.se, dung it well, and 
trench it to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet; then form beds of four feet and a half 
wide, and make in them four narrow trenches or drills, six inches deep, and lengthways 
of the bed, with a spade, which will leave one side of the trench or drill upright; against 
this upright side insert one-year-old plants, eight inches apart, and so deep that the crown 
of the root will be about two inches below (he surface of the bed; cover in each drill care¬ 
fully, and then rake the bed slightly over to level it. If a light crop of Onions were sown 
on the beds the first year, they would not injure the Asparagus plants. 
Cucumbers and Melons will now require considerable attention in giving air and water, and in 
earthing-up, as may be requisite. 
Strawberry beds should now have their spring-dressing, and if new plantations are wanted, this 
is the best time to make them,—take off the strongest runners nearest the parent, (.see 
page 329) and plant them on the beds or borders prejiared for the jiurpose, in rows about 
twelve inches apart, and six inches from plant to plant in the row's. 
Mint. New beds may be ))lanted by draw ing up the young spring shoots for the purpose, and 
planting them in beds six inches ajiart. 
Garlic ond Shahts should be planted in the beginning of the month, in drills si.x inches apart, 
and about two inches deep. 
G. Jewitt, Printer, Uuffifld, near Derby. 
