MALACCA. 
somewhat out of her bearings; but fancy-dress balls, theatricals, bull, athletic sports, and 
other games have amused and kept within bounds the tempers of the 4 Khedive’s ’ cargo. 
The absence of life on this vast expanse of water had not a very exhilarating effect on 
my mind; except a few flying-fish that were disturbed as the monster ship rushes on its 
course and flitter away, until exhausted they drop once more out of sight,there is absolutely 
nothing to prove the existence of this teeming animal kingdom over many thousands of 
square miles. 
At Colombo, as nearly all the passengers are bound for India, the minority—some 
thirty or forty only—have to change their ship. At this port true Eastern life may be said 
to begin. When in after years I visited the large towns of Java, I found the order of 
things but little different; here, for the first time, the sight was gladdened by gaudy 
butterflies, large gaily-coloured lizards, and birds, whose first cousins I afterwards met in 
Borneo. I am afraid I shall weary my readers, before I finish my task, with birds ; but if 
ever any of them should visit Colombo they must notice the Crows, whether they will or 
no, as they are so obtrusive in their habits. These birds will enter your bedroom windows 
in the morning and steal what they fancy; in the streets they wait on the house-tops for 
jobs as scavengers. But it is in the harbour that they seem to enjoy themselves most; 
perched high in the rigging they watch the galleys for scraps, picking out of the sea any 
refuse that may be thrown overboard. When the ‘ Khedive ’ was in Colombo a young 
Crow had the misfortune to fall into the sea; his friends gathered round, and by cawing 
attracted the attention of some natives, who went to its succour; immediately the Crows 
saw their relation safe they ceased all further signs of anxiety. 
We had a delightful passage to Penang: the ship is now comparatively empty, so 
there is now what one misses most on board ship, viz. plenty of room. At Pulo Penang 
we drop still more of our passengers, mostly Sumatra tobacco-planters, who, to judge from 
their conversation, are mefl that enjoy life, many of them having made their fortunes in a 
few years; but times have changed since then with tobacco-planters. 
Penang has an air of real prosperity about it; it seems full of busy people, and is a 
port second only to Singapore in the Straits Settlements. A few hours only at this port 
and we pass into the Straits of Malacca, a shallow muddy sea. Our outward journey is 
now nearly at an end; to-night we pass the lights of Malacca, the next morning we enter 
the harbour of Singapore, where still more of our passengers disembark, myself amongst 
the number. A kind friend met me on the quay, and for several days I enjoyed his 
hospitality. One thing that first strikes the etiquette-loving Western races is the 
hospitality and freedom which exists amongst the white population of the East: wherever 
you go you are always received with a kindness that is surprising to your colder Western 
mind. What the chief causes of such different feelings displayed by Europeans to one 
another in the East and West are, I do not know—unless it be the feeling of hospitality 
induced by meeting a fellow-countryman in a strange land and amongst alien races and 
surroundings. 
Singapore is, strictly speaking, a Chinese town, and there the Chinamen have more 
freedom than in any other part of the world, their own country not excepted; and 
accordingly their manners (1) and customs are little, if at all changed. In Java and the 
