NORTH BORNEO. 
59 
superbly grand mountain Kina Balu. This wonderful mountain looks more imposing than 
many mountains of a much greater altitude, from the fact that it is an almost isolated mass, 
at the highest end mounting up to the height of 13,698 feet ( Belcher) and finishing off 
abruptly in sheer precipices of 10,000 feet; its proximity to the sea-coast being less than 
forty miles in a direct line allows of it being viewed at once from the lowest level, none of 
its imposing grandeur being lost by a series of intervening plateaus which dwarf so many 
mountains. Kina Balu is nearly always visible until 9 a.m. ; after that time clouds 
begin to creep over the hills at the less-elevated north-eastern end, and gradually increase 
in volume, first skirting along the foot of the mountain, then gradually rising and spreading 
until the whole of this mighty giant is swathed in mist; the mountain remains hidden until 
nearly sunset, when deluges of rain clear the atmosphere in time for Kina Balu to receive a 
rosy kiss from the setting sun. During the night this mountain is free from vapour, and 
forms a splendid sight when the moon is full. Before sunrise I think there is no more 
beautiful sight than to see Kina Balu, then of a dark blue shade, standing out in the 
clear morning air with all its rugged precipices backed up by the yellow tints of the 
rising sun. I used to rise before daylight every morning during my short stay in Abai to 
contemplate this lovely scene, and speculate in my mind as to whether I should be the first 
to explore this wonderland, picturing to myself the wonderful zoological treasures to be 
gleaned on its surface ; but, as you will see, it was many months after this that I first set foot 
on the “ promised land.” 
Several years before I visited Abai the Company had a police-station with a European 
Besident stationed there; but for some reason this place was given up and a post on the 
Tampassuk Biver selected; this also was soon abandoned. The house at Abai was much out 
of shape from the violence of the winds, which blow along this exposed coast with great 
force during the monsoons; but I was very thankful to avail myself of this shelter on this 
and on several other occasions : so soon does man’s nature become accustomed to certain 
modes of life that what at first he regards with the greatest dislike he leaves behind after 
a short period often with feelings akin to affection—at least, such were my feelings with 
regard to the tumble-down shanty, with its chairs and table, when I used to return from my 
long expeditions in later years from Kina Balu. The greatest drawback in Abai is the want 
of fresh water, the shallow wells containing only most disagreeably brackish water. 
The following morning some of my men crossed the river and walked across the plains to 
the Tampassuk Biver to visit a Bajow Datu, or chief, in order to obtain sufficient buffaloes 
to carry my baggage to the Datu’s house, the valley of the Tampassuk being one of the 
highways to Kina Balu. In the evening, when the men returned, they told me that Datu 
Tumanggong had promised to send the buffaloes in two days’ time, as he said it would take 
some time to find a sufficient number. Datu Tumanggong called later on to tell us that he 
could only find two men willing to come for my baggage, but as a “ tamel ” or market would 
be held on the following Saturday on the opposite side of the river, I should then find no 
difficulty in procuring buffaloes enough to carry my baggage to his house. 
The Datu was a shrivelled-up, toothless old Bajow, with a wonderful crafty look about 
him, and by nature a perfect diplomatist; he kept me waiting later on for days with promises 
of assistance, but in reality he never stirred an inch to help me on my journey. He was 
