NORTH BORNEO. 
77 
we coasted north, arriving on the following clay at the mouth of another river, called by my 
followers the Lukutan. All along the sea-coast the forest had been burnt down, the 
blackened trunks of the larger trees alone remaining. This fire took place a few years 
previously during an extra dry season, and devoured miles of primeval forest, as far as the 
sources of the Padas River. After rowing some distance up the river it began to rain, so 
we stopped at the first native house we came to. The owners, hoAvever, were away, so I 
hesitated as to whether we should occupy their house for the night, but a native called to 
us across the river that we were welcome to do so ; on entering we found pillows, mats, 
fishing-tackle, and food left about just as if the owners were going to return shortly, but on 
the following morning we left without meeting our hosts. 
After proceeding some distance we met with some Muruts who were busy cutting up a 
pig they had just killed, surrounded by their pack of small, sharp-looking, half-starved dogs, 
which were greedily snapping up the bits thrown to them. Our journey up stream was 
brought to an end by the fallen trees and snags which effectually blocked the way ; so I 
ordered the men to build a shelter, which was roofed in by a large canvas sheet especially 
made for this purpose, and, with the sails from the prahu for the sides, was soon fairly 
comfortable. To-day on our journey here we have passed many abandoned native gardens, 
tenantless and half-rotten houses, showing that at one time this river supported a far larger 
population than it does to-day; but the inhabitants have either been killed or driven away 
by the Trusan Muruts, who, only a few months previously to our visit, murdered a man and 
woman as they were crossing the river, taking away both their heads. 
It now rains every day in torrents, and as we are doing little or nothing, and our 
shelter is far from watertight, on the 16th we returned to the sea and coasted to the Com¬ 
pany’s station of Batu Batu (batu= stone). About the estuaries of the rivers are numerous 
Waders migrating north; they consist chiefly of Whimbrels, Turnstones, and Sand-Plovers 
of several species. On the 17th we reached Batu Batu ; this station is built on the edge of 
a mangrove-swamp, and, as usual when such positions are chosen, is most unhealthy. The 
chief industry here is pearl-fishing: the pearls are found in a very transparent shelled oyster; 
so thin and clear are the shells that the pulsating movements of the fish can be seen through 
them. The oysters live in the shallow muddy sea in the estuaries of the rivers when suffi¬ 
ciently sheltered: the pearls are known as seed-pearls and are of little value as ornaments, 
but are bought by the Chinese, and I am told are ground down for medicinal purposes. 
The next morning, after having spent a very pleasant evening with the officer in charge 
of the station, we started for Mempakol, and much to my crew’s disgust they had to row 
the whole distance. Natives object very much to rowing, seeking every excuse to rest and 
waste time, so unless continually watched your progress is nil ; if left to themselves they 
wait for the wind. I do not think a Bornean coolie is worth more than the smallest wage, 
as he is a perfect adept in the art of shirking his duties. The following day we started for 
Pulo Tega, on which islands I hoped to find that splendid Pigeon Caloenas nicobarica. So 
flat and swampy is the country round about Mempakol, that by rowing up the Kilias Biver 
the coast opposite Pulo Tega may be reached; thus many miles in the open sea are 
avoided. 
