88 
JAVA. 
the day when compared to the state of civilization in Java. After steaming for four days 
along a most picturesque coast, calling at several of the principal ports, we anchored on 
the 14tli in the perfect harbour of Sourabaya. 
Sourabaya is similar to Batavia, but the native population no longer dress in the 
bright-coloured prints of the Soendanese, but wear indigo-blue dyed garments, which 
detracts from the liveliness of the scene. These people are known as Madurese, and come 
from the island of Madura, which is only a few miles distant, and forms one of the 
shelters to the harbour. 
On landing, having a gun in my possession, I was forced to leave it at the custom¬ 
house, and drove about three miles to the hotel. After several expeditions to the Dutch 
Government offices, I obtained permission to land my weapon, and another drive to the 
custom-house was necessary to obtain it. Why the permit cannot be obtained on the 
spot, and thus save several journeys, I am unable to understand. But in some parts of 
Europe a gun licence takes one afternoon of hard work to obtain. In Corsica I had to go 
to some five bureaus situated in various parts of Ajaccio, paying small sums at each for 
stamps, forms, permits to obtain stamps and forms, and permits to obtain permit-forms, 
See., See .; in three days’ time 1 received a placard giving a full description of myself and a 
copy of the game-laws. 
On one of these expeditions to obtain permission to land my gun, my guide—one of 
the hotel Spadahs—led me to the wrong bureau, where I was ushered into the presence 
of Official Holland; there with due reverence I asked for the necessary permit, when the 
official replied that I had come to the wrong office, and asked in return if I had permission 
to travel in Java. As this was the first time I had heard of any such permission being 
necessary, I replied 1 had not. “ Then you will have to remain in Sourabaya until you 
have,” was the answer. This was more than I bargained for. In the end the official 
telegraphed to Batavia. His telegram was made out regardless of expense—an emblem of 
verbosity; but I suppose I was the more struck with this fact, as the guilders to pay for it 
were to come out of my pocket. After a few days an answer was received from Batavia 
that “ The Governor-General gives his permission for Mr. John Whitehead to travel in 
Java.” The words “ permit granted ” would have cost me less. 
The necessary document, I was informed, would be forwarded to Tosari in a few days, 
but, as a matter of fact, I did not receive it until two months later. When I asked the 
representative of the Government what was the use of this permission, “ Oh! none,” was 
his answer; “ but it is the law, and you see we do not charge anything for doing all this 
work.” My thoughts wandered to those telegrams and the little stamps at the corners of 
the various documents. In all it cost me twenty guilders and wasted four days of my time 
in Sourabaya. So if future travellers propose to visit Java they had better get their permits 
at once, or carefully avoid all Government bureaus. This permit lasts for a period of six 
months, and without it you are liable to a fine assessed at so much per diem during the 
time you neglect to obtain it. 
It seemed to me a somewhat foolish and unnecessary system for the annoyance of 
travellers; but if the Dutch do not object to this custom, it is not for foreigners to 
complain. 
