152 
KINA BALU: SECOND EXPEDITION. 
in Melangkap last year, on meeting ns again he was at once quite friendly. We trudged 
up hill through mud and slush until nearly 4 o’clock, when Billio discovered that he had 
struck a “ terra incognita,” so when the buffaloes arrived there was nothing for it but to 
make the best shelter we could for the night. The rain steadily continued, and the whole 
of the surrounding country was hidden in mist. A short distance off we found the frame¬ 
work of a Dusun field-house, minus roof and sides ; this we soon covered with the large 
waterproof sheet, and stowed the baggage away below. In this small space—some ten 
square feet—twenty-one men sat huddled together until the following morning. It rained 
hard all night; sleep was made impossible by the presence of thousands of midges, which 
were first attracted by the buffaloes and then attacked ourselves. It was a pleasure to me 
when the sun rose, even after having walked hard for two days and spent two sleepless 
nights. Billio went on last night, still believing that he knew the way, and shortly arrived 
at the village of Teung, from which place he brought porters this morning. With the 
daylight we find ourselves on a low range of hills on the opposite side of the Panataran, 
facing Melangkap : the well remembered notes of the Tonkakis and Lahoie were the first 
sounds heard at sunrise, announcing that once more we had succeeded in reaching the 
kingdom of Kina Balu. My agreement with the Ilanuns being for two days only, they 
refused to go on to Melangkap, stating that their buffaloes’ feet were broken up, so they 
started on their return journey at daybreak; but later on I heard that they were unable to 
cross the Tampassuk at the first ford, owing to the flood, and were delayed a day. I was 
indeed lucky to have missed this by a few hours. 
5th.—Billio returned with some Teung villagers; they say that the Panataran is too 
high to ford, so we shall have to wait until to-morrow, passing another day and night in 
our miserable lodgings. We, however, settled with the Teungs and paid for seventeen 
buffaloes from this to Melangkap. I was glad that I had not brought the whole of my 
baggage, or this mistake would have cost me dearer still. Billio is much upset over his 
mistake. The Dusun tracks over these hills during wet weather are almost impassable, 
no Dusun ever taking the trouble to repair the paths. Rain after mid-day. 
6th.—We left the bamboo framework at 8 o’clock, and reached Melangkap in two 
hours. The Teungs were a great trouble to settle with, their chief spokesman being a 
disagreeably harsh-voiced man, who would not at first come to terms; but in the end 
I let him imagine that he had bested me by giving each Dusun five common needles 
extra, which one could buy in Singapore at about twenty or thirty for a penny. This 
I have always found the only plan when dealing with these people, viz. to offer a 
certain amount, and at the last moment, when negotiations are apparently broken off, to 
add a trifle. 
The Melangkaps, after their fashion, seem pleased to see us. Our first trouble is to 
find a house, the one we occupied last year having fallen down. Most of the Dusuns at 
this time of the day are in their fields. After visiting one or two houses which were 
unsuitable, the old priestess—with the brass anklets—arrived, and at once offered, us a share 
of her house, which is the best in the village. I am glad for other reasons to accept of her 
hospitality : the old lady, being a tremendous talker, carries a great deal of influence in the 
village, so her friendship is desirable. 
