SEPTEMBER. 
15 
done, as growth commences immediately after¬ 
wards. Towards the end of the month shad¬ 
ing may be dispensed with, as the sun has 
not sufficient power so late in the year to 
do harm. Some of the early spring-flowering 
Cypripediums should be looked over, and if 
any need potting this should be done before 
the days get too short or the temperature cold. 
If the plants are robust, a mixture of good turfy 
loam and cow-dung may be used, if the former 
can be obtained from ground containing a small 
percentage only of lime. For the more delicate 
kinds use peat, covering the surface of the pots 
with living Sphagnum. Most of the Vandas 
belonging to the tricolor section may now be 
potted with safety. These plants are apt to 
become leggy if left alone too long, therefore 
their stems should be shortened and the roots 
brought nearer to the pots. This class only re¬ 
quires something to steady their stems; so that if 
clean crocks and charcoal are used, covering the 
surface with a little peat and Sphagnum, it will be 
sufficient. The plants will need but little water 
at the roots, as the necessary syringing will keep 
them well supplied with moisture. They should 
be kept under a temperature of from 65° to 70° 
at night for the present, with a corresponding 
rise in the daytime, according to the weather. 
Lcelia anceps, L. albida, and L. autumnalis will 
now be showing their flower-spikes, and should 
be kept still in a moist state. Most of the Catt- 
leyas will by this time have finished growth, so 
that watering must be done carefully. Ccelogyne 
cristata, Sobralia macrantha, Gymbidium Loicicmum, 
and some others will still need good supplies of 
water, and if a little liquid manure could be 
added to assist them to finish their growth, this 
would be very beneficial. As all plants mature 
their growth they should be gradually hardened 
off, so that they may be the better able to with¬ 
stand the winter. There are, however, many 
species still in active growth which will need 
particular care. 
Hothouse. — Many winter-flowering sub¬ 
jects in these structures will now need special 
attention, in order to induce them to produce 
their blooms at the time required. Cenlropogon 
Lucianus, Eranthemum Andersonii, Paiellia macran¬ 
tha, Plumbago coccinea, Poinsettias, and the winter¬ 
flowering Gesneras should be exposed to the 
sun as much as possible, so that their shoots 
may reach their full development. Caladiums 
should be thoroughly dried off, and when all 
leaves have fallen the pots may be stored away 
under the stage, but do not remove them into 
a lower temperature than 60°. Gloxinias may 
be removed to a house in which the heat does not 
fall below 50° If allowed to remain in the warm 
stove the bulbs will shrivel, or will, if moisture 
is afforded, recommence growing. Ixoras, Cro¬ 
tons, Dracamas, and other plants should be kept 
free from insects. Gardenias and Eucharis for 
winter-flowering should have liberal treatment, 
with plenty of heat, the temperature being 
maintained at 70° by night, with a rise of 10° 
in the daytime. Towards the end of the month 
all shading may be abandoned, unless it be in 
the case of newly-potted seedlings or other plants 
having but little root. 
Greenhouse and Conservatory. — A 
goodly quantity of Mignonette should be sown 
during this month—one lot at the commence¬ 
ment, and another towards the latter end. 
Chrysanthemums will demand special care, in¬ 
cluding disbudding and protection from frost. 
Water must be given abundantly, if the weather 
be hot and dry, as sometimes is the case, in the 
early part of the month. This sometimes occurs, 
however, in conjunction with frosty nights, Avhen 
it will be found necessary in low damp places 
to house them early. The first batch of Zonal 
Pelargoniums plunged in ashes should be housed, 
as should also the earliest set of Perpetual Car¬ 
nations and Bouvardias. Advantage should be 
taken of the present opportunity, before many 
of the hard-wooded plants are taken in, to prune 
and tie all climbers, such as Passifloras, Jasminum 
grandiflorum, Clianthus, Tecomas, Stauntonias, 
and Clematises. These should have their shoots 
thinned out and cut away, and after the glass 
has been washed most of the hard-wooded species 
may be housed. Teas and other climbing Roses 
may also be pruned, and the border should be 
top-dressed with rich loam and decayed manure. 
Pits and Frames. 
Pot off Malmaison and other winter-flowering 
Carnations that were layered, as advised, last 
month. Take up Solanum capsicastrum, Callas, 
Bouvardias, and other winter-flowering plants 
and pot them afterwards, standing them on a 
bed of ashes in cold frames, shaded from the 
sun. Cinei’arias will also benefit by being 
shifted into larger pots before they become pot- 
bound. See that they are shaded from the 
bright sun, and ventilate freely. Push forward 
the propagation of all plants required for bed¬ 
ding, as Heliotropes, Coleus, Alternantliera, 
Iresine, Ageratums, &c. A good quantity of 
the scented varieties of Pelargoniums should 
also be put in, as they are very suitable for 
cutting. 
