342 
THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. 
by this minute pest are practically failures, soon 
ceasing to make any further progress. The 
small thread-like worms pierce and deposit their 
eggs on cysts in the Tomato roots, causing galls 
or knots to form which paralyse the roots and 
deprive the plants of their assistance while form¬ 
ing crops of fruits. A more deadly species of 
eel-worm, known as Tylenchus obtusus, destroys 
the bark and soft tissues of the stems below the 
surface, flagging leaves being the first intima¬ 
tion of the attack. Both species are difficult to 
cope with. All that can be done is to keep the 
soil about the roots steadily moist, and to apply 
lime-water occasionally, oi', better still, Little’s 
Soluble Phenyle, at the rate of 1 oz. to 6 gallons 
of soft water. Neither lime-water nor soluble 
phenyle will wholly check the ravages of eel- 
worms, but they serve to keep the roots active 
long enough to save the crop. 
Thorough preventive measures should be 
adopted the following autumn or winter, or the 
chances are that eel-worms will be even more 
destructive the following season. Where possible 
all the old soil should be cleared out, the beds 
limed, and the walls lime-washed. If the new 
compost prepared has been well frozen through 
that would clear it of eel-worms, and, failing 
this, add enough newly-slaked lime to whiten it. 
Market-growers could not well clear out their 
large borders and substitute new soil, and the 
only way out of the difficulty is to trench the 
ground well, mixing 2 lbs. of basic slag and 12 
ozs. of kainit with every square yard of border. 
This ought to be done at least six weeks prior 
to planting Tomatoes in the ground, as these 
manurial insecticides when first applied in such 
excessive quantities are liable to be somewhat 
destructive to plant as well as to insect life. 
Wire-worms are destructive to Tomato plants 
planted in newly-broken-up ground, eating their 
way into and up through the centre of the 
stems, flagging foliage being the first signs of 
their presence. At this stage there is no remedy, 
quite large plants having in many instances to 
be pulled up wholesale and replaced with healthy 
plants. Gas-lime mixed with fresh soil at the 
rate of 1 half-peck to 12 bushels of soil, or well- 
mixed with soil in borders at the rate of 1 peck 
to the square rod of ground, helps to clear the 
soil of wire-worms; but ground treated with this 
kind of insecticide cannot safely be cropped for 
at least six weeks after its application, or until 
the poisonous properties are got rid of. Super¬ 
phosphate of lime is both distasteful to wire- 
worms and a good manure for Tomatoes, but 
it cannot be termed a really effective remedy. 
Trapping is the only safe and perfect remedy, 
and this should commence either in advance of 
or simultaneously with planting. Short (2-inch) 
lengths of carrot, each with a label or stick 
thrust into it, ought to be inserted with the 
aid of a trowel just below the surface of the 
ground and 2 feet or so apart, and in these the 
wire-worms will assuredly collect. Eveiy second 
day is often enough to raise and examine the 
carrots, the wire-worms being found sticking 
out of them. They should be destroyed, and 
the carrots returned to the ground. 
Selection of Twenty-four Varieties. 
Best of All (fig. 1115). — Sets freely and is an immense 
crojiper, producing heavy bunches of fruit at short inter¬ 
vals all over the plant. Excellent in form, of good size, 
solid; colour deep-scarlet. 
Blenheim Orange. — A somewhat strong grower, the fruit 
setting freely under glass, not so freely in the open. Fruit 
large, round, smooth, good form, bright-yellow faintly 
flushed with red, solid, of fine flavour; averaging four to 
a cluster. 
Champion. — Sturdy growing and free setting both under 
glass and in the open. Fruit of medium size, round, 
smooth, deep-scarlet; averaging five inside and nine out¬ 
side to a cluster. Ripens in the open first week in August. 
One of the best for all purposes. 
Chiswick Dessert. — Fairly robust. Fruit rather small, 
round, smooth, scarlet; averaging eight in a cluster; solid, 
of fine flavour. A heavy cropper inside, of no value out¬ 
side. 
Duke of York. — Strong grower, but not free in setting. 
Fruit large, flattish round, smooth, scarlet; averaging three 
to a cluster; of good form and fair flavour. 
Dwarf Gem (fig. 1107).—Plant seldom exceeds 2J feet 
in height; foliage large, dark, 1 curled, the plant presenting 
a very striking appearance. The pale-yellow fruits are 
perfect in form, and borne in immense clusters. 
Early Ruby. — A dwarf grower and very free setter. 
Fruit medium, uneven, some fruits smooth, others corru¬ 
gated, particularly outside, deep-red; averaging five to a 
cluster. One of the best for the open air, the fruit com¬ 
mencing to ripen late in July. 
Frogmore Selected. — A strong grower and heavy cropper. 
Fruit medium to large, deep, round, slightly corrugated, 
handsome, scai'let; averaging six to a cluster; solid, good 
flavour. Good both under glass and in the open. 
Golden Jubilee. — Plant robust and free bearing under 
glass, but no good in the open. Fruit large, round, deep- 
yellow suffused with red, smooth, handsome; averaging 
five to a cluster; solid, fine flavour. 
Golden Nugget. —A moderately strong grower, free 
setting and distinctly ornamental both under glass and in 
the open. Fruit small, roundish - oval, smooth, bright- 
yellow; averaging eight to a cluster; solid, fine flavour. 
Ham Green Favourite. — Moderately strong growing and 
more reliable than Chemin Rouge, which it resembles. 
Fruit large, flattish-round, smooth, deep-scarlet; averaging 
seven to a cluster; solid, good flavour. A heavy cropper 
inside and outside. 
Holmes’ Supreme. — Of sturdy habit with rather finely- 
cut leaves; setting freely under glass and in the open. 
Fruit medium, round, smooth, bright-red; averaging nme 
