MARCH. 
5 
purpose they should be kept in the coolest end 
of the house, and air admitted on all favourable 
occasions. 
Pits and Frames. 
With warmer weather and an increase in the 
latent store of heat, many plants will be starting 
into new life. Where Polyanthus, Auriculas, 
Stocks, Border Carnations, Aquilegias, Hydran¬ 
geas, Marguerites, and such-like plants have been 
wintered in these contrivances, they should be 
looked over, and all dead leaves removed. Air 
should be ungrudgingly admitted on all pro¬ 
pitious occasions. The sun being bright and 
the weather mild, the lights may be removed 
altogether for an hour or two in the middle of 
the day. Make another sowing of Sweet-peas 
and other half-hardy annuals, such as Sweet 
Sultan, Gaillardias, and Perpetual Stocks for 
cutting. Violets will need plenty of ventilation 
when the weather is fine. They must, however, 
be well covered at night to protect them in case 
of frost. 
Flower-garden and Pleasure-ground. 
When the weather permits, push forward with 
all digging and the planting of deciduous shrubs, 
as such work should be brought to a conclusion 
by the end of the month. Where any new turf 
has to be laid, it should be done without delay; 
walks should be regravelled if necessary. Sweep 
and roll lawns to give them a tidy appearance. 
Look over the flower-beds, and if any of the 
spring bedding plants, such as Daisies, Poly¬ 
anthus, Myosotis, Silene, &c., have been lifted 
by frost, press their roots in again. All dead 
leaves should be removed. Look well after 
mice where Crocuses are growing, as they are 
often very troublesome just as the flower-buds 
are appearing. Should any pruning remain un¬ 
done, finish it as soon as possible, as the sap 
will very shortly commence to flow. 
MARCH. 
Plant-houses. 
Orchid Houses. —Of all the trying periods 
of the year March is one of the worst with 
which a gardener has to contend. Often there are 
cold winds blowing from the north-east, which 
lower the temperature of the houses, so necessi¬ 
tating the consumption of a large quantity of 
fuel in order to maintain the requisite degree 
of warmth. While these remain, frequent damp¬ 
ing down must be done, or otherwise the young 
growths will soon be covered with yellow fly 
and thrips. 
Oncidiums of the autumn and winter flower¬ 
ing section, such as 0. Lanceanum, 0. ampliatum, 
0. majus, and 0. pulvinatum, will now require 
potting. After this is done, they should be 
placed in a temperature of 60° at night, and from 
70° to 75° during the daytime. Such varieties 
as 0. incurvuni, 0. ornithorhynchum, 0. tigrinum, 
0. Marshallianum, 0. crispum, and 0. sarcodes, 
should be grown with the Odontoglossums. 
Some of the Cattleyas, notably C. Aclandice, C. 
superba, and C. Schilleriam, will now need pot¬ 
ting. Use clean pots and crocks, for these 
plants dislike sour soil. The remarks applied to 
Laelias last month, hold good during the present 
one. All that have commenced new growth 
should either be top-dressed or placed in new 
baskets if they require it. Dendrobiums will 
be gay during March. Those which have finished 
blooming should be attended to, and any that 
need potting should have this taken in hand 
before growth has advanced too far, as the 
process retards it. Many of the plants in the 
intermediate house will now need removal to 
fresh pots. Maxillarias, Lycastes, and Cypri- 
pediums that are starting into growth will also 
require more root-room. Calanthes that have 
been at rest will be resuming active life again. 
When the new growths are about an inch long, 
they should be potted. The compost used should 
consist of rich turfy loam and dried cow-dung. 
The base of the old bulb should be just covered 
with the soil, and a small stick used to support 
each till it has become firmly established in its 
new quarters. No water will be needed for some 
time except for damping over the surface with 
the syringe. They should have a temperature 
of 65° at night, and of 75° to 80° by day. 
Repot Odontoglossums that are just renewing 
their growth. Be careful to keep these plants 
shaded from the sun, and use plenty of water, 
both at the roots, over the stages, and amongst 
the pots. 
Keep a little air on, from both top and bottom 
ventilators, whenever the weather will permit 
the practice. The temperature at night should 
be from 45° to 50°, and by day from 50° to 60°, 
according to the weather. 
Hothouse. —The present is a busy month 
in this department, as many plants will need 
repotting, cuttings must be put hi, and seeds 
sown. Such plants as Crotons, Dracaenas, Alla- 
mandas, Alocasias, Marantas, and stove-plants 
in general will need fresh pots. Since so many 
