350 
THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. 
readiness for the purpose, and if the work has 
been successfully performed the jelly should set 
in a few minutes. To avoid loss, if it is seen 
before the extract is poured out that it is not 
likely to set properly, a little of the purest 
gelatine may be added, and when the work is 
carried out on a large scale this is often adopted 
as a general precaution. With experience and 
care that course is not however essential, and 
the pure-fruit jelly is such a delicious substance 
that it is not desirable to introduce any foreign 
matter even though it be absolutely innocuous. 
Still, a considerable quantity of imitation fruit 
jellies is manufactured, and by means of arti¬ 
ficial colouring and artificial flavours, a large 
number of which are produced chemically, a 
substance of very good appearance and pleasant 
taste can be turned out, which may command a 
sale in preference to the genuine extract of the 
fruit by reason of its price. This is regrettable, 
because there is an ample field for the extension 
of fruit-jelly production, and a little experience 
in the comparison of the true article with the 
imitation will conclusively prove the superiority 
of the former from a dietetic point of view. 
Marmalade . — This is practicalh T a form of 
jam-making, in which the whole fruit is cut 
into thin slices and boiled with sugar until the 
solid portions are thoroughly cooked, and suf¬ 
ficient pulp is formed to render it agreeable. 
Though employed so extensively in the conver¬ 
sion of Oranges into a confection, this process 
is not applicable to hardy fruits grown in this 
climate, with the exception of the Quince. From 
this a richly-flavoured and highly-coloured pre¬ 
serve can be made at comparatively small cost 
beyond the value of the fruit and the sugar em¬ 
ployed. The supply is always limited, and the 
demand is fairly good at paying prices for the 
best quality. Where it is sought to provide a 
general stock of preserves for sale it is advis¬ 
able to have a few boilings of Seville Oranges 
in addition; Lemons also are occasionally em¬ 
ployed in the same way. The clearest and 
brightest products appear to the best advantage 
in glass jars, but some of the lai’ge firms use 
1-lb. white glazed earthenware gallipots in enor¬ 
mous numbers, the surface either plain or fluted, 
and suitably labelled. 
Crystallizing and Glazing .—By far the most 
costly and troublesome process connected with 
fruit-preserving, is that concerned in the pro¬ 
duction of crystallized or glazed fruits, but at 
the same time there is no form which com¬ 
mands such large prices. At certain periods 
of the year, especially at Christmas, the demand 
is considerable, but large supplies are obtained 
from the Continent or America, and to compete 
with these the British manufacturers must be 
prepared to produce a fii'st-class article and 
exercise the utmost taste in displaying the 
goods. The neat little boxes of crystallized 
fruits which reach our markets have the fruits 
carefully packed in layers separated by white 
paper, and, margined with delicately-stamped 
paper-lace, they lnrve quite an artistic appear¬ 
ance. They serve as seasonable and attractive 
presents, and the extra care and taste bestowed 
upon them yield a large return in the higher 
price realized. It is only in this way that 
crystallizing can be made to pay, and that is 
one reason perhaps why it is seldom attempted 
here on a large scale. Still, so long as sugar is 
I not excessively dear, it is a method that should 
be included in the operations of any producer, 
particularly as there is practically no limit to 
the time the fruit will keep, provided it is not 
exposed to damj) or excessive heat. In conse¬ 
quence it is admirably adapted for exportation, 
as many of the American firms have realized in 
recent years, and it constitutes a growing por¬ 
tion of their business. 
Almost any kind of fruit can be treated in 
this way, but those most usually employed are 
Green-gages, Apricots, Cherries, small Pears, and 
occasionally small Apples. The first three gener¬ 
ally have their stones removed, while the others 
are cut into quarters, pared and cored. With 
all, the object is the same, namely, to substitute 
sugar-syrup for the natural moisture of the 
fruit, a process which can only be accomplished 
in a very gradual manner. The samples must 
be selected with great care also, as, if too ripe 
or not sufficient^ ripe, they will not absorb 
the sugar freely enough to effect the desired 
! purpose. It is customary to place the prepared 
fruits in clean willow baskets and dip them in 
boiling water until the fruit is slightly softened 
and a portion of the juice extracted. But 
though this is a safe process with regard to 
Apples, Pears, the firmer Plums, and Apricots, 
yet with the more delicate Plums, such as Green¬ 
gages, for instance, it requires to be done with 
the greatest caution or the fruit will be spoiled 
for the intended purpose, the skin being cracked 
or the substance softened to an undue extent. 
For some a few minutes will suffice, for others 
perhaps ten minutes or a quarter of an hour 
will be needed for the first soaking; but judg¬ 
ment must be exercised in all cases, as absolute 
rules cannot be laid down. 
A thick syrup of fine white sugar must be 
