M a Ha 8 s« v. ' j 
94 
‘Ibt RURAL NEW-YORKER 
January 17, 1920 
BUY 
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Horticultural Notes 
Transplanting Mature Grapevines 
In my yard I have a grapevine which, 
I think, is about eight years old—prob¬ 
ably 10 years. It bears very well and 
fruit, is good and healthy. The present 
arbor has rotted away, and I shall build 
a new one, and want to enlarge it, as I 
believe I have too many sturdy growths 
all too close together at present time. 
The present vine looks as in the cut. All 
stalks are sturdy, and have grown to the 
top of trellis. I wish to lengthen this 
and double it, too. with a top trellis. How 
far back could these be safely pruned? 
When is the best time to move or transfer 
two of the vines? S. s. 
Long Branch, N. J. 
It is rarely advisable to transplant a 
large grapevine, although it can be suc¬ 
cessfully done. As only three years arc 
had but mediocre results in transplanting 
vines over two years of age. 
F. E. GLADWIN. 
Planting Asparagus in Young Orchards 
One of our readers in Central New Jer¬ 
sey wants to know if it would be prac¬ 
tical to plant green asparagus as an inter¬ 
crop for orchards. He will set out an 
orchard of Stay man apples, 40 ft. apart, 
with Wealthy as fillers. Would he be 
justified in setting these trees so that 
they would stand 20 ft. apart, and then 
planting asparagus between the tree rows, 
say three rows of asparagus 5 ft. apart? 
The question of planting asparagus as 
an intercrop in an apple orchard, even 
though both trees and asparagus are 
planted the same season, is a question I 
A Crowded 
required to bring a one-year nursery plant 
to the bearing period, there is not much 
gain in moving an old root with its trunk 
and arms. If the undertaking is made it 
is necessary’ to cut back the roots se¬ 
verely, as well as the top, so that the 
proper balance between these parts is 
maintained. When this is done, I do not 
consider the vine as the equal of a good 
No. 1 one-year plant from (he nursery. 
There are one or more methods by 
which new plants worth while can be se¬ 
cured from the parent plant. First, as 
S. 1). wishes to lengthen his trellis, it is 
understood that the vines are to be placed 
co as to occupy it. All stalks from the 
vine should be cut away some time during 
the Winter, but one and henceforth no 
others should be allowed to grow. From 
this stalk it is apparent that there have 
grown several canes the past season as 
ihe vines are reported in good vigor. A 
good, well-ripened cane of good length is 
selected, one that grows from the trunk 
nerhaps IS inches above the ground level. 
This is carried along the general direction 
of the trellis, and at the proper distance 
from old trunk a portion of it is buried 
in the soil at a depth of 5 to 7 ins. This 
buried portion is held under the soil by 
stakes driven so that they cross the cane, 
and with it beneath. Two or three buds 
of the cane are allowed to project above 
the ground level. This cane the coming 
season will strike root in its buried por¬ 
tion ; at the same time the parent vine 
will furnish much of its plant food. After 
the second year the cane is severed just 
beneath the soil level, and henceforth the 
new vine elaborates its own plant food. 
Vines may be established by this method 
on soils so poor that a nursery-grown 
vine cannot make a start. In this in¬ 
stance the old center vine can be cut 
entirely away and a layer run to take its 
place, while each vine on the border can 
be made to produce another vine by layer¬ 
ing from adjacent vines. If several 
plants are desired from this parent, the 
layer or cane is covered for a large part 
of its length, leaving the tip uncovered. 
As a rule roots will strike* from each node 
or joint, and if one is in a hurry they 
may be cut away from the parent vine 
the Fall after the layering is done. From 
each node a shoot will likewise have 
grown, so that in general each joint gives 
a complete plant. Better vines are ob¬ 
tained, however, by allowing the cane to 
remain attached during two growing sea¬ 
sons. 
If the transplanting of the entire stalk 
and root is undertaken, it should be done 
during the dormant season, but our ex¬ 
perience indicates that it is more satis¬ 
factory to accomplish the renewing by 
the methods lien in nutlilUaL—Wu__kuAUi. 
Grape Trellis 
do not believe many growers will agree on, 
and probably all are correct from their 
personal viewpoint. There are so many 
factors entering this discussion that it 
leaves room for strong argument. The 
type of soil, the depth of soil, potential 
fertility, humus content, and last, but not 
least, the man behind the job, must be 
considered. If a good orchardist, together 
with a good asparagus grower, and he a 
good feeder and clean tiller, wanted to 
try thi6 scheme on good strong soil. I 
would say it would succeed for seven or 
eight years—not longer. Where are we 
to find that combination in one man many 
times duplicated? On light, thin, sandy 
land I would not like to try it with any 
hope of a large reward. While both crops 
are young no harm is done, because the 
root systems are not fully developed, hut 
by the time the root systems are quite 
fully developed, say at five or six years of 
age, the whole soil to a depth of three or 
more feet is all filled wfith roots, vying 
with each other for food and water. One 
or the other must suffer. The asparagus 
is a very heavy feeder; few grounds feed 
liberally enough for maximum results 
when planted alone. What then must he 
the effect when left in a young orchard till 
12 or 15 years of age? c. c. hulsaht. 
New Jersey. 
My objection to a crop like asparagus 
in an apple orchard would be that it is a 
crop which for the best results should he 
cultivated clean and fertilized all through 
the late Summer in order to get strong 
crowns for the next season’s cutting. The 
apple trees naturally complete their 
growth in July, and the remainder of the 
season should be devoted to the maturity 
of the season’s growth and fertilization, 
and clean cultivation late in the season 
might interfere with this, while it would 
be needed for success with the asparagus. 
I think that after July the ground should 
be growing a Winter cover of clover. Ex¬ 
citing a late growth will damage the ap¬ 
ple trees. w. F. MASSEY. 
Maryland. 
A new asparagus field usually begins 
bearing the third Spring after it is set. 
The yield increases until the seventh sea¬ 
son. Then maximum production is main¬ 
tained until the twelfth season, after 
which the yield and quality each season 
gradually decreases until the bed is ‘‘run 
out.” Young apple trees, especially of 
the Wealthy and Stayman varieties, set 
20 ft. apart each way, will shade the soil 
and rob it of its moisture and plant food 
four years after the young trees are set. 
In seven years or less profitable apple 
crops should be produced. Therefore^ an 
asparagus intercrop set at the same time 
the orchard is set would have no oppor¬ 
tunity. Excellent intercrops for newly- 
set orchards are late-crop potatoes, pep¬ 
pers, pumpkins, tomatoes, etc. At all 
times an exhaustive early crop should be 
avoided. A quick growth of the young 
trees should have first consideration, espe¬ 
cially in the Spring and early Summer. 
It may interest readers of The R. N.-Y. 
to know that it is a very excellent prac¬ 
tice to plant a declining asparagus bed to 
fruit trees three or four years before the 
old bed is to be plowed up. Then when 
the fruit trees are large enough to require 
all the space, the rows of asparagus near¬ 
est the trees can be killed simply by con¬ 
tinuing to harvest, the asparagus shoots as 
long as any appear. K. w. de baun. 
Xew.Jexso.v~—.. — mmm — - m -- 
