Weevils in Stored Beans 
Is there tiny way to prevent weevils 
from infesting beans? I think that the 
egg must be laid while the bean is in 
blossom and remain there until the bean 
is ripe and gathered. I opened a small 
sack of white wax beans that I had saved 
for seed and there were hundreds of 
weevils in the sack and on the windows 
in the house. The beans when gathered 
seem to be perfect, riot a spot on them, so 
the egg must, have been laid in the early 
stages. I do not think that I would want 
to eat the beaus after being treated the 
way you suggested, with all the dead 
weevils in them. Is there any way of 
treating that will prevent the weevils 
from infesting the bean? Do you think 
that if I sprayed the beans while in bloom 
and later on while growing with an arse- 
Hate of lead or a kerosene emulsion or 
tobacco, it would prevent the weevils from 
infesting the beans? h. m. a. 
Beans when stored in a warm place are 
often infested with the oommon bean 
weevil, which is the most' formidable en¬ 
emy to the culture of beans in the United 
States. It attacks the beans in the field 
during the Summer growing season, as 
Well as the dried beans after they are har¬ 
vested and stored. It should be under¬ 
stood, however, that the dried beaus are 
attacked after they are stored, in most 
cases, although it is probable that in some 
cases the eggs are laid on the beans while 
they are piled up in the field to dry. Es¬ 
pecially might this latter be true if the 
weevil had been present in the field dur- 
iug the growing season. In such a case, 
of course, the eggs would be on the beans 
when they were put.away for the Winter. 
The eggs would then hatch in a few days 
if the room was warm, and in a short 
time the beans would become badly in¬ 
fested. 
There is no way of treating the beans 
in the field by which the weevils may be 
prevented from breeding in the stored 
beans. If the weevil has been present it: 
the field during the Summer, then in a 
short time after the beans are harvested 
and stored they should be fumigated with 
carbon bisulphide, as has already been 
described in The R. N.-Y. After the 
beaus are once thoroughly fumigated, they 
should be placed in tight containers, if 
possible. If this is not practicable, then 
they may have to be fumigated again, for 
the weevils may find them later and de¬ 
posit their eggs again. Weevily beans 
should never be planted in the Spring, be¬ 
cause in this way the beaus are infested 
in the field during the growing season. 
GLENN W. IIEKRICK. I 
Plums Fail to Bear 
I read the spraying article on pagelS74 
December 27. 1919. and page 4, Jauuar; 
p> »'•>-<). with much interest. I jus 
bought a small place on which are 30( 
plum trees seven years old that never bon 
fruit. I moved on place November 1, am 
soon saw orchard never had much care 
neighbors have told me there never woulc 
be any fruit. Would the method of spray 
ing described apply to plums as well a; 
apples? L.A.Z. 
Madison, O. 
The methods of spraying given recently 
in a “Review of a Season’s Work” will 
not apply to plums as well as apples. The 
dormant spray should be made before the 
buds have opened much and may be at the 
same strength (1 to 8) as for apples. It 
Will tend to control some diseases as well 
as the scale if that gets on the plum trees. 
We have seen little or no black-knot ou 
our plum trees since we have been spray¬ 
ing them with lime, sulphur at the same 
time as the apple trees. Another spraying 
at 1 to 40, or 5 gals, of standard lime 
sulphur in a 200-gal. tank, may be made 
just before the blossoms open. Another 
spraying at about tin 1 same strength may 
be made when the plums get about half 
an inch long, or about the time the 
“husk" drops off. Another spraying two 
or three weeks later may have some value. 
Only experience can tell which of these 
are the best in any locality, and I am 
guessing after reading the descriptions of 
some plum diseases and comparing with 
what we know of our own conditions. 
I-. A. /. does not tell enough to give us 
a chance to be sure of the reason why the 
plum trees have not borne. If the or¬ 
chard is all one variety, lack of pollination 
may be the trouble. In that case the 
planting of some variety that blossoms at 
the same time should make them bear. 1 
guess from'the letter that the trees do 
blossom, but if they do not it may be be¬ 
cause they have grown too fast. In that 
case it might be well to let the orchard lit* 
in sod a year or two. If the plum trees 
blossom and are of more than one variety, 
so that they can be cross-fertilized, sonic 
fruits should set. and then proper spray¬ 
ing should help them to mature. A few 
days ago a friend told me that he thought 
the use of nitrate of soda on his apple or¬ 
chard about blossoming time helped to in¬ 
sure a good setting of fruit. a. c. w. 
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