The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
577 
Suggestions for Planting, the Place 
Climbing Roses On the Porch. Fig. 1)8 
Dutchman's Pipe Vine is Useful. Fig. 1)9 
The Ornamental Spiraea 1 'an Uouttei. Fig. Fit) 
P LANTING F< >U EFFECT.—Few shrubs bloom so 
late as the Rose of .Sharon, which is not at all 
particular about soil or location. It: has a tendency, 
though, to become tall and rather ungainly unless 
kept well cut back. All too often ornamental shrubs 
are scattered about the grounds in a hit-or-miss 
fashion, which is distressing to the trained eye. The 
effect is much better when the shrubbery is used 
along the borders or at the base of the house, with 
an unencumbered stretch of lawn. Foundation 
planting has much to recommend it. Such planting 
serves to tie the house to the grounds, 
softens sharp corners and creates an 
attractive picture. It is a common 
plan to have a double row. with the 
plants staggered. Set them about ft ft. 
apart, and be sure that their roots are 
in good earth. It happens all too often 
in the case of a new house that the 
earth dug from the cellar is thrown on 
tup of the ground outside, and. of 
course, such soil has no fertility. 
Foundation planting is one of the most 
effective ways to beautify a home at 
small expense. One of the best plants 
to use in this way is the Japanese bar¬ 
berry, because of the wealth of color 
which it carries through the Winter. 
CLIMBING ROSES.— If possible 
supplement the shrubbery with climb¬ 
ing roses, but avoid the old-fashioned 
Crimson Rambler, as there are now 
many much better kinds. Exeelsa for 
example. Among the other good climb¬ 
ers are Lady Gay, Dorothy Perkins, 
Hiawatha, American Pillar, Silver 
Moon and Tausendsehon. or Thousand 
Beauties. .Remember that climbers are 
to be trimmed differently from bush 
roses. As soon as the flowering season 
is over cut out a considerable part of 
the old wood, as this will throw the 
growth of the plant into the now wood 
and prepare it for flowering the next 
season. Garden makers often hesitate 
to cut a climbing bush severely, but if 
the soil is fairly rich they will find that 
new shoots will grow up with surpris¬ 
ing rapidity and that the plant can be 
kept in much better condition than 
when allowed to become a riotous mass 
of shrubbery. If the roses are being 
grown for a screen, less cutting should 
be given, and if trained high over a 
trellis the cutting should be part way 
up the canes. 
A LIST OF ROSES.— Roses for the 
garden are among the plants which 
almost every home-maker wants, but 
oftentimes a mistake is made in choos¬ 
ing varieties. Among the very best of 
the roses for the home garden are the 
following: Pink—Dean Hole, Jonk- 
heer ,T. L. Mock, Killarney. Lady Ash¬ 
down, Madame Caroline Testout. My 
Maryland. Radiance, Madame Chate- 
nay. Clio. Red—General MacArthur. 
Grass an Teplitz, Richmond, FI rich 
Brunner. White or Blush—Bessie 
Brown. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 
White Killarney. Souvenir du Pres. 
Carnot, Maman Cocliet. Frau Karl 
Druschki. Yellow—Madame Ravary, 
Mrs. Aaron Ward. Mrs. A. R. Waddell. 
CLIMBING VINES.—For climbing 
vines around the house, apart from 
loses, nothing is better than Hall’s 
honeysuckle, which has a great advan¬ 
tage of keeping its foliage until late in 
the Winter. The Dutchman's pipe is unsurpassed as 
a living screen. The Actinidia vine is another good 
one, and for an evergreen vine to take the place of 
English ivy, which is not hardy in the North, there 
is nothing to equal evergreen bittersweet, catalogued 
as Euon.vmus radic-ans vegetus. This splendid plant 
is not a very rapid grower, but in time will climb 15 
or 20 ft. high, and clings to stone, brick or concrete 
just as readily as does ivy. Tts beautiful green color 
is retained throughout the coldest Winter motiths, 
and when the plant gets well established it produces 
handsome fruit, much like those of the common bit¬ 
tersweet, which gives it its name. 
PIIR1 BS FOR THE SHADE.—People often ask 
do not bloom freely because they have been pruned 
at the wrong season. The following must be pruned, 
if at all. just as soon as they have ceased blooming: 
Azalea mollis (remove any old wood), barberry, 
strawberry shrub, dogwood. Japanese quince, Deut- 
zia, pearl bush, Forsytliia, lilac, mock orange, flower 
ing plum, Rhododendrons (cut out only old wood), 
flowering currant, elder. Spiraeas Thunbergii, pruni- 
folia and Van Uouttei, snowball, Weigela. It will 
be noticed that all these are Spring-blooming shrubs. 
If trimmed in the Fall or Winter many or most of 
the buds will be taken off. 
FLOWERS FOR SHADE.—When it comes to mak¬ 
ing a flower garden, most housewives know pretty 
Planning the Year’s Work 
C ROPS.—As to crops, we are going 
to raise only legitimate ones. By 
that I mean those suited to our soil 
and equipment. As this is a fruit farm 
we have, besides the orchards, only 
small fields, wflere we raise corn, oats, 
wheat and hay in the accepted rota¬ 
tion. During the war we tried to help 
increase production by raising un¬ 
familiar crops. We tiled carrots, cab¬ 
bage and beans between the rows of 
trees. But the land was not suited to 
growing these vegetables, neither was 
our help, neither were we ourselves. 
We would have helped the nation more 
financially had we given the Red Cross 
all the money which we put into these 
crops. The carrots and cabbage were 
a failure and the few bushels of beans 
harvested helped the country very lit¬ 
tle. Still. I am glad we tried. Now, 
however, we can bend all our energy 
to those crops which we love to raise. 
We can go at it with the great weight 
of the war lifted, with enthusiasm, 
with hope and with curiosity. 
APPLES.—First the apples: We 
have the commercial varieties common 
to Western New York and about one 
thousand trees of McIntosh, which are 
not so common. All orchards are cul¬ 
tivated until about the second week in 
June, then sown to a cover crop and 
weeds. Before the war weeds were not 
allowed. I remember how old Sam and 
Joe and George, our Italians, would go 
through the orchards hoe in hand and 
chop off the head of any offending 
weed which had escaped the teeth of 
the cultivator. The land must be clean, 
raked into dust and kept unspotted by 
green. Then old Sam and .Toe and 
George went back to Italy to fight for 
their country. I wish we might know 
how they have fared! The next sea¬ 
son we cultivated as usual, but there 
was no one to hoe. The weeds grew 
unmolested. No harm seemed to result 
to the trees. This last Summer there 
were even more weeds in the cover 
crop, as we stopped cultivating early. 
Now we are wondering if weeds in an 
orchard instead of being harmful may 
not be utilized. Is it possible that they 
have any fertilizer value? We ob¬ 
served last year that some kinds of 
weeds loosened the soil wonderfully. I 
should say right here that we used 
nitrate of soda for fertilizer. The 
thing to do is to find which of our 
weeds have fertilizing value. Some of them surely 
appear to have. Which are nitrogen-consumers and 
which are nitrogen gatherers? We wish the experi¬ 
ment stations would turn their attention to this 
question. We do not plow the orchards, but work 
them up with an orchard disk on a tractor just as 
early as it can possibly be done, so early some¬ 
times that the tractor has to be helped out of the 
soft places. The cultivation is continued at frequent 
intervals, at least after every rain, until about the 
middle of June. Then the cover crop is put in. 
Clover is too high, so is vetch, though we would like 
to use both. I can just imagine that when these 
weeds come up next Summer the passersby along 
Part II 
for shrubs which will thrive in partial shade. The 
following is a good list, although with some plants, 
like the Forsytliia, the flowers will be fewer than in 
a sunny place: Barberries, Rose of Sharon, dog¬ 
wood. Japanese quince, Deutzias, elders. Kerrias. 
snowberry, lilacs, high-bush cranberry and Forsytlii- 
as. Of course all these shrubs can also lie planted in 
sunny places. 
PRFNING SUGGESTIONS.—Many times shrubs 
well what they want to grow. ’ But it often happens 
that they are puzzled as to what will thrive in a 
shaded location. Few plants will give flowers in full 
shade (the tuberous-rooted Begonias being a conspic¬ 
uous exception), but the following perennials will 
thrive in a border that gets only a few hours of sun¬ 
light: Japanese Anemone, larkspur. Canterbury 
bells, Heuchera, Iris, German and Siberian: lilies, 
most kinds, but not L. candidum: saxifrage: Thalic- 
trum: tufted pansies; columbine; Coreopsis: fox¬ 
glove: lily of the valley; cardinal flower (Lobelia 
cardinalis) ; violets; mouk’s-liood i Aco¬ 
nitine). Among the annuals for partial 
shade are: Evening primrose, balsam. 
Torenia. flax (Linum). Bartonia, 
Clarkia. pansy. e. i. farrixgtox. 
