The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
837 
The Home Dressmaker 
Overblouse and Skirt.— The figure at 
the left in the first picture shows an at¬ 
tractive over blouse and skirt. The origi¬ 
nal model had a satin skirt and Georgette 
blouse, both the same soft shade of taupe. 
The costume was made very striking by 
the wool embroidery trimming it. This 
consisted of square blocks, of jade green 
and orange outlined in black, and with 
a bar of black crossing the center of each 
block. As shown, there was a square 
of these blocks at each side, and a deeper 
panel of them in the center. The round 
neck was trimmed with embroidered 
blocks of alternating colors, with a double 
line of black edging it. A narrow satin 
girdle was tied at each side, the ends be¬ 
ing finished with green tassels bound with 
black. It is a new idea to have a girdle 
tied at both sides, instead of only one 
The skirt had a line of embroidered dots 
at the top of the hem. which may be 
omitted if desired. A satin skirt of this 
kind may be worn with different over¬ 
blouses; for example, if the embroidery 
at the hem is omitted a blouse of blue and 
taupe or henna and taupe figured ma¬ 
terial would give a very good effect. The 
slip-on blouse, 9890, and skirt, 9842, 
shown in our issue of March 20, could be 
made up easily in this style. The hat 
figured is a model very popular just now, 
having the brim turned straight up in 
front and covered flatly with daisies. As 
shown, the hat was taupe straw trimmed 
with green daisies. 
One-piece Linen. —The model at the 
right is natural linen, and is cut all in 
one piece, like an old-fashioned wrapper. 
There is a loose panel covering the back 
of the waist, the ends of this panel being 
brought around in front to form tin 1 belt. 
In the original pattern (9897 for misses 
and small women), the neck is round' and 
the dress is fastened down the back, the 
closing being hidden by the loose panel, 
which was fastened at the shoulders by 
snap fasteners. As here developed, how¬ 
ever. tin* neck was opened a little down 
the front and the dress made to slip on 
without any other opening. The long, 
plain sleeves were slashed from the wrist 
half way to the elbow, this slash being 
left open, while closed at the wrist. All 
edges of neck, sleeves, sleeve slash, loose 
panel and belt were closely buttonholed 
in bright-red wool. The neck was fur¬ 
ther trimmed with a band of embroidery 
in brick red and jade green wool, and 
there was a little block of the embroidery 
on each cuff. Cuff's and belt were fas¬ 
tened by links made of oval jade beads 
strung on wool. This was an excep¬ 
tionally smart-looking dress, yet very 
simple and easy to launder. The hat 
shown is an early Spring toque of folded 
brick-red tissue. 
A Smalt. Girl's Taffeta. —In the sec¬ 
ond picture the girl’s frock at the left 
was oyster blue taffeta, trimmed with 
ruffles of white Brussels net. It was so 
pretty, and yet simple, that any plain pat¬ 
tern can be made up in similar style. The 
round neck and elbow sleeves were bor¬ 
dered with little net ruffles, while four 
b-in. bars of the ruffling were put verti¬ 
cally extending from waist to skirt in 
both back and front. The hem was 
slightly gathered in at the bottom of the 
nkirt. and a ruche finished the edge. The 
narrow ribbon girdle was tied at each side 
with loops and ends. While this frock 
would not be practical in wash goods, be¬ 
cause of the extra work in ironing, the 
ruffles would be a very pretty style for 
ehallie, with silk ruffles, or for taffeta. 
Lie popularity of green shades is re- 
noctod in children’s wear, and we see 
many such frocks in jade, leaf and nile 
ri. eeu A • %vo have no pattern exactly 
UKo this, there is a plain frock with a 
?i tunic lik ‘‘ this skirt (9914. sizes 
• to 14 years) that could be adapted bv 
a bandy seamstress. 
The Transparent Tunic.—T he dress 
..‘“.center shows the contrasting tunic 
incncf' at -lu C< ‘ Tt . is brown satin char- 
,i,’ W . ,t b a tunic of cream organdie— 
overall ^artlnig return to the contrasting 
bodice bn/If SOni ° , J . ,inrs affo - T,, e plain 
i v ' • tw .° Wordings, like darts, slight- 
smi : i ! n j in 1 lt toward the waist. The 
" mare neck was edged with u fold, and 
the short sleeves were finished with puf¬ 
fings or ruffles of the material gathered 
double. The puffings over the hips, which 
extend around the back, are made in the 
same way of material gathered double. 
The organdie tunic had a deep hem headed 
by a band of pin tucks. We have seen 
some gowns of black satin with tunics of 
ecru lace, and also of organdie with deep 
insertions of lace, or of sheer batiste with 
all-over tucks and insertions. Less per¬ 
ishable, but very pretty, is a gown of this 
style with a transparent tunic of the same 
color, the materials being taffeta with a 
tunic of Georgette or silk net. There is 
a pattern for misses and small women. 
9860, which could be made up in this 
way ; it does not have the paniers, but as 
these are merely straight pieces doubled 
and then gathered to fit, it would not dc 
difficult to make them. 
Another Youthful Model. —The 
child's dress at the right was green taffeta 
with an apron drapery of white organdie. 
The skirt was covered with a full-length 
tunic of white organdie, slashed up to the 
waist at the sides, where each “apron” 
was slightly rounded at the lower edge, 
and bound all round with pale pink rib¬ 
bon. The sleeves were nothing more 
than a turn-back cuff of the organdie, 
bound with ribbon. The ribbon girdle, 
tied at the side, had a little knot of black 
flowers caught in the loons. This was so 
simple that a description does not give 
any idea of its dainty prettiness, but there 
is quite a practical idea in it. A fine 
organdie overdress could be made in this 
style, either bound with washing ribbon 
or finished along the edge with briar stitch 
in color, and then worn over colored slins. 
There would be economy, too, in wearing 
the washable overdress over a small girl’s 
silk frock. While we have no pattern 
just like this, there is a simple pattern 
(9824, sizes 4 to 10 yrs.) which one ac¬ 
customed to the use of patterns could 
adapt to it. 
Notes and Novelties. — Everywhere 
now one sees jade green hats, dresses and 
trimmings. This light but vivid green is 
the most popular of all colors this Spring. 
A hat of solid jade green is often very 
unbeoming; but being stylish, many young 
women are quite satisfied, without consid¬ 
ering beeomingness. Other light shades 
of green are favored, but jade is the lead¬ 
ing tint. 
Separate skirts and blouses are mor»‘ 
in favor now than for several years. 
Black satin is the * fahsionable “dress” 
skirt, and makes a smart costume with 
a transparent black blouse. Black taffeta 
skirts are often made in draped models 
Pleated skirts of black silk poplin with 
a deep satin band at the hem form a dig¬ 
nified model for older women. 
English sateen is one of the handsomer 
cotton goods, both in quaint designs and 
in rich, solid colors. Very picturesque 
little frocks for children are made of the 
figured sateens, often patterned like prints 
of the 18.30 period. 
A handsome gown of midnight blue taf¬ 
feta was stitched diagonally with green 
silk. It had a guimpe and undersleevos 
of ecru embroidered batiste banded with 
geen taffeta. 
The square neck and long-waisted bod¬ 
ice slightly crushed around the waist is a 
favorite mode in satin and taffeta. 
Broad girdles of Roman striped ribbon 
are a feature of many Eton suits. 
Three Useful Models 
Three-tier and five-tier wraps, often 
accordion pleated, are much featured; 
they suggest (lie Directoire period. Serge 
is used for many of these wraps, but they 
are also shown in satin and taffeta. Mode, 
sand, taupe and fawn shades are very 
popular, also black and dark blue. 
Irish picur is a favorite edging for col¬ 
lars and cuffs of linen blouses. Blouses 
of solid color, blue. rose, green or helio¬ 
trope. plain tailored styles, are often fin¬ 
ished with tliis white picot edge. 
Vestees. collars and cuffs of sheer or¬ 
gandie, white, blue. pink, heliotrope or 
maize, are very popular for wear with 
Spring jacket suits. A last-year’s sir.t 
is often rejuvenated by such accessories. 
Sheer materials. tucked, puffed or 
trimmed with tiny lace ruffles, are the 
vogue; stiff linen and pique are out of 
favor. 
DURABLE 
DURHAM HOSIERY 
Made Strongest Where 
the Wear is Hardest 
Honest wear is honest 
worth in hosiery 
T^OR men who are always on 
their feet — and women and 
children too, here is honest hosiery. 
Serviceable stockings that look bet¬ 
ter and wear longer. Styles include 
socks and stockings for every mem¬ 
ber of the family. Light weight 
styles for dress. Heavier weights 
for work-day and outdoor wear. 
Comfortable, good-looking stockings 
for long months of wear, without 
holes. Every pair of Durable-DuR- 
HAM Hosiery has the same honest 
quality. Ask your dealer to show 
you Durable-DuRHAM, and look for 
the trade mark ticket attached to 
every pair. 
DURHAM HOSIERY MILLS 
DURHAM, N. C. 
Sales Office, S3 Leonard Street, New York 
BULL DURHAM 
A heavy and aub- 
etantial sock 
Strongly double-r. 
informed heels ar I 
toe3. Feet and t«^ 
nre smooth, sea ji 
less and oven. 
Why not save money ? 
(Ground Only) 
PARCEL POST FREE WITHIN 300 MILES 
r o combat the high cost of 
coffee we have combined the 
finest coffee grown zvith health- 
giving roasted cereals and the 
highest grade chicory. 
The flavor is delicious ! 
MONEY BACK IF NOT SATISFIED 
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51 BARCLAY ST., NEW YORK CITY 
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goods,—dresses, blouses, stockings, skirts 
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To match any material, have deale 
show you “Diamond Dye” Color Card. 
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By H. Armstrong Roberts 
A practical and 
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kinds of building 
information from 
concrete to carpen¬ 
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For sale by 
fHF. 
RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 W. 30th St.. N. Y. 
