1212 
The RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
July 17, 1920 
Blue Buckle Over Alls 
T**0E MARK 
u * P.,.0‘,. 
Blue Buckle 
‘Buddies" for chil¬ 
dren 4 to 16 years 
duplicate the men’s 
garments in qual¬ 
ity, pattern and 
workmanship. 
They’re the best 
wearing play-gar¬ 
ment sold in 
A.merica. 
Copyright 1930 by 
flobbers Over All 0o., In*. 
“Strong-for-Work” 
Blue Buckles’ freedom from bind or pull, their 
tough, enduring quality-materials and Union work¬ 
manship will convince you that better made and 
better wearing work clothes can’t be bought! " 
Seams sewn with heavy-ply thread last the life 
of the garment; tack-stitching prevents rips and 
tears. Broad, easy, stay-up suspenders mean com¬ 
fort. The real brass buttons and loops never rust! 
Know what Blue Buckles give in work-comfort. 
Next overalls you buy, make ’em Blue Buckles! 
Ask your dealer for Blue Buckles 
Jobbers Over All Co., Inc., Lynchburg, Va. 
Largest manufacturers of overalls in the world 
Fancy Crimson or Scarlet Clover Seed 
$6.00 Push.; 10-bush, lots, $6 Push. High grade—high Test. 
LAYTON & LAYTON, Inc., Seedsmen, Georgetown, Del. 
For Sale-1 00 lbs. Certified Grimm Alfalfa Seed 
purchased throng)) Grange Exchange, Syracuse. 
First money order for $4 5 gets seed quoted at 75c. 
per lb. V. H. Andersen, Box 612, Monroe, N. V. 
258 Letterheads 
250 ENVELOPES, $4. Prepaid 
Salks Mart, Whitneyville, Conn 
COVSUHH 
If your Alfalfa does not winter-kill, the hay 
crop is produced at a comparatively low cost, 
even though the price of the seed is higher 
than that of ordinary Strains. 
Inst year was an unusually severe one on 
Alfalfa, but we had no complaint of our 
GENUINE GRIMM killing. 
We should like to tend quotations and 
~ ‘ — ‘ ! Seed ; 
0. M scon & SONS CO. 
Scott'a Field . 
384 Main St. 
Book 
Marysville, Ohio 
GRANGERS LIME 
*‘The Proven Soli Sweetener” 
Write for Price* and Commodity Freight Rates 
GRANGERS MANUFACTURING CO.. Successors 
Sales Offices: 
Hartford, Conn. 
Bridgewater, Mass. 
Grangers Lime Company 
Works: 
West Stockbrldge, 
Mass. 
Horticultural Notes 
New Suggestions for Cultivation 
Has asparagus been raised under a 
heavy mulch, such as is sometimes given 
potatoes? It seems to me that the strong 
sprouts would readily force upward 
through it. and at the same time have the 
weeds smothered. c. d. r. 
Yes, we have seen a number of small 
patches grown in that way. There was 
a good yield. The sprouts easily made 
their way up through the covering of 
straw, hay, weeds or manure. The best 
asparagus growers think thorough culti¬ 
vation necessary to give the best growth, 
but we know that fair results can be 
obtained by covering. 
lias the expedient of lightly covering 
strawberry beds with light, fine hay in 
time of drought been tried by others? It 
saved my crop, when the prospect was to 
lose the whole. Every two days the bed 
was uncovered, and after picking covered 
again. It seemed not only to protect from 
the hot sun, but also to bring up moisture 
from below. 
We have not seen the plan worked in 
just that way. It is common practice to 
cover the ground with a thick mulch of 
straw or manure and let the plants push 
up through it. This keeps the berries 
clean, keeps the weeds down and holds 
moisture in the soil. The plan here men¬ 
tioned is a new one. 
I find it desirable when corn, potatoes, 
etc., are small to plow away from the 
rows, running as close as possible, and 
doing it«several times. Then, when the 
plants are up several inches, throwing 
the soil the other way, against them. 
We presume the theory of this practice 
is about as follows: In cold or damp 
ground opening along the row warms or 
dries out the soil by admitting the air. 
It would be more likely to start the crop 
into growth. Then, later, throwing the 
soil back to the row would make the soil 
better able to hold its moisture. 
Is there anywhere in use an implement 
that will do this better than a light, plow? 
We have hillers in excess, but need some¬ 
thing that will work the opposite way. A 
disk will do it. but it is hard to get close 
enough without interference with the 
plants. 
We do not know of any, except it may 
be a disk harrow with adjustable disks. 
These can be hung so as to straddle the 
row and throw the earth away from it. 
Euless you have a steady team and a 
careful driver the disks wjll cut out too 
many plants. 
Rapid Propagation of Strawberry Plants 
I know there are a lot of folks who 
bought a few high-priced strawberry 
plants this Spring, feeling they couldn’t 
get more, and will welcome a good plan 
to increase that number to a bearing bed 
for next Spring. For these and other 
berry enthusiasts—not commercial grow¬ 
ers—I give my experience in a hurry-up 
method of getting strawberry plants. 
We will take, for example, a dozen 
plants I bought in the Spring of 1919. 
The price was such I did not feel like 
getting more, and after letting one plant 
produce a berry that same Spring, 1 im¬ 
mediately wished I had hundreds of them, 
but. the nursery would sell me no more 
plants till this Spring. The first thing 
in order was to give the 12 plants the 
best possible soil, cultivation and water¬ 
ing. By July 15 the ground was almost 
matted with runners. I carefully went to 
the source of each runner plant and cut 
it off between the parent plant and the 
first runner plant. Beyond this first 
plant would generally be two and some¬ 
times three runner plants, with a leaf or 
two and little or no root. The first run¬ 
ner plant, however 1 , is always well rooted 
by the time a couple more have formed 
beyond it, and can be taken up, reset lo 
its permanent position and becomes Gi 1 
parent plant for the plants beyond it. 
which should not be detached, hut set in 
the row at an angle and the connecting 
runner weighted down with small stones. 
By this method when you take up one 
plant you in reality move three aud some¬ 
times four. Continue this till your run¬ 
ners from the original 12 plants are gone. 
You will find that it has made a nice- 
looking row, perhaps a hundred feet long. 
Now this July-set. row will become es¬ 
tablished, and by Fall quite a number of 
new runner plants will have been formed 
in the reset row. giving the whole the ap¬ 
pearance of what is known as the narrow- 
hedge row, and from it the following 
Spring you will pick nothing but fancy 
berries, if you have a good variety. 
By September the original 12 plants 
will have also produced a goodlv quan¬ 
tity more plants, and a furthe • netting 
can be made at this time, and still leave 
a good bearing row with the original 
plants. The September setting will re¬ 
quire careful mulching after the ground 
freezes, but there should be no trouble 
about its freezing out, and a fair crop of 
excellent berries can be harvested the 
next Spring from even the last setting. 
It is an actual fact that from six plants 
given me one Spring I lmd a bearing bed 
the next Spring containing over 1000 
plants. The variety first mentioned, of 
which I had 12, was not so good a plant- 
maker. hut produced a grand total of at 
least 500 plants in one year. These mid¬ 
summer and Fall-set plants must be 
placed in the ground with care, spreading 
the roots in their natural position, and 
watering well after the plant has been 
placed in the ground. The watering must 
be repeated as often as necessary till 
growth starts. 
One great advantage of this method is 
that you get. your bearing wood from vines 
that have not fruited, and all of the 
strength goes to your plants. By taking 
up the plants in Summer you remove 
only new plants which are plainly indi¬ 
cated by the connecting runners. It 
never pays to move an old plant, which 
is almost unavoidable in digging up a 
fruiting bed in the Spring for plants. 
Michigan. patjl x,. ward. 
Dying Plum Tree 
I have five Burbank plum trees about 
eight years old. This Spring they were 
full of blossoms, and have set a'lot of 
fruit. On one the leaves started to dry 
up. also the fruit, until now about, three- 
fourths of the tree is in that condition. 
They have been sprayed once dormant 
and once after the blossoms had fallen. 
All these trees wore very thrifty last 
season. There are lots of ants running 
over the trees. These trees are on a 
lawn. f. B. ii. 
Clark’s Summit, Pa. 
I think that this tree is injured at the 
root below ground, and most seriously on 
the side which is dying first. Japanese 
plums are frequently budded upon peach 
stock, and borers, or a Winter injury, 
might readily cause the dying of the 
roots, or at least injure it seriously 
enough to cause the weakening of the 
tree. Even where other plum stocks are 
used, there are likely to be occasional 
instances whore root injuries occur. I 
would suggest that you dig around this 
tree and examine the bark below ground, 
and see whether it is not. injured by 
borers or something else. If three-quar¬ 
ters of the tree is already dead it. is 
probably not possible to do anything to 
save the tree, but you may give the other 
four more attention. If the trees are on 
peach stock and borers are doing damage 
you can remove them annually, and if 
they are on peach stock you should see 
that the soil is kept well above the union 
and that the soil is well drained about the 
trees. Occasionally people throw out 
salt, acid, oil or other materials about 
trees in the yard, and we occasionally 
find trees dying from such causes, but 
the chances are that this is a ease of 
ordinary stock injury. M.A.B. 
A Friend of Quack Grass 
On page 1063 there is an article on 
quack grass and how to get. rid of it. It 
interested me, so I am writing to give my 
experience with quack. I live in Sara¬ 
toga County. We have considerable 
quack grass here. We do not try to kill 
it. hut just cultivate it to keep it down. 
There is some land around here where 
there is no quack, and one can hardly 
grow white beans on it. As a rule, where 
quack grows any crop will thrive by lots 
of cultivating. Our potato ground is 
plowed seven or eight inches deep, har¬ 
rowed well four times with a spring-tooth 
harrow. By burying it so deep the pota¬ 
toes get up ahead of the quack. 
When the potatoes begin to crack the 
ground we cultivate them twice in a row 
the first time, both ways. When they 
get about six inches high they are hoed. 
The way to get. the best of quack is deep 
plowing, a good, thorough harrowing with 
a spring-tooth, and plenty of cultivating. 
By this system we are not bothered with 
quack; it has never failed to get us a 
crop yet. I think any farmer who plows 
a field of quack and expects to get a crop 
ought to know that he will not get it 
without good, hard work and plenty of it. 
I. for one. am in favor of quack, the more 
the hotter. It makes lots of worthless 
lard good. B. W. F. 
New York. 
Storage of Onions 
Will you give information concerning 
the storage of onions in the ordinary Toot 
cellar? Any comments you may make 
concerning the temperature, dryness, 
moisture, etc., will be appreciated. 
Mt. McGregor, N. Y. A. S. C. 
Onions are one of the difficult crops to 
store on the average farm. They require 
a warm, dry atmosphere, and an ideal 
place for storage would be an atfeic or a 
room over a wagon shed. But they can¬ 
not be allowed to freeze, and there is the 
difficulty on the average farm. If there is 
a room in the house that is not need aim 
that could be heated enough in extreme 
weather so that the temperature woum 
stay above freezing, this would be an 
ideal place to store ouions, squash, pump¬ 
kins and the like. T - n - T- 
