7ht RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1275 
The Home Dressmaker 
- - - - - - ■ ■ . _ -. ^ 
Corded Taffeta.— In the first picture 
• the dress at the left is bronze taffeta 
trimmed with cording. The cording dif¬ 
fers from the ordinary type, as instead of 
being a plain cord, the silk covering is 
shirred on, with a very pretty effect. The 
plain two-piece skirt had four cords at the 
bottom and four at the hips. The bottom 
looked slightly narrower, but was not 
really drawn in, the cords at the hips 
holding it out slightly. The waist was 
crossed over in the front in surplice style, 
so that its lower edge was folded around 
like a girdle, but the waist and skirt were 
fastened invisibly at the back. The short 
sleeves and round neck were edged with 
the cord, while the depth of the round 
neck in front was filled in with a straight 
piece of white Georgette. This was a 
very plain gown, but style and outline 
were very attractive. As it does not call 
for a great deal of material, it would be 
desirable for making over, and in this 
case the cords could be covered with some 
of the less desirable bits of material, as 
the shirring over the cord would disguise 
slight imperfections. The hat is one of 
the many mushroom shapes of pink pea¬ 
nut straw, trimmed with a wreath of pink 
double daisies. As for the shoes, that 
bow low on the instep has returned to 
favor with this season’s styles, and is 
newer than a buckle on pumps. One 
great defect with many plain pumps this 
season is that the vamp is just long 
enough to bind across the instep, and 
there is real danger in this, as the con¬ 
stant pressure sometimes causes a serious 
sore that is long in healing. 
White Voile. —At the right is a dress 
of white voile. The skirt is made in two 
tiers, the lower flounce attached to a 
transparent foundation, the upper to the 
belt. Both tiers are scalloped and fin¬ 
ished with buttonholing. The lower 
flounce is attached to the foundation with 
a line of pink chainstitch, which shows 
through the material of the upper flounce 
very prettily. The waist nad short 
sleeves, finished with scallops, the round 
neck having a fold of the material. The 
transparent lining was embroidered in 
front with a cluster of pink flowers. An 
opening down the front of the waist 
showed these flowers down the center, 
while the remainder of the embroidery 
showed through the voile. The narrow 
ribbon girdle was old blue. The hat was 
black peanut straw, with a large bow of 
old blue. 
White and Violet. — In the second 
group the little frock at the left was white 
voile, trimmed with the same material 
in, violet and white stripes. This was 
not only a very pretty dress, but a very 
practical one. for an outgrown frock 
could be lengthened by trimming in this 
way. The skirt was finished with a half- 
Mich hem. the band of striped material 
being attached below this by a line of 
violet featherstitchiug along the hem. The 
short sleeves were lengthened in the same 
way by a band of colored material, at¬ 
tached by colored featherstitchiug. and 
there was a line of violet featherstitchiug 
around the neck. At the waist violet 
ribbon was passed through slots, as shown, 
but bands of the striped material could be 
used if preferred. Violet featherstitchiug 
went around the waist above the ribbon 
and across the front, where the ribbon 
Passed underneath. 
Bellow Organdie.— The little dress in 
the center\jvas nothing new in cut, but 
hvas very attractive in trimming. It 
was sulphur yellow orgaiylie, the skirt 
being trimmed with two little frills gath¬ 
ered through the center. These ruffles 
were attached by a line of deep orange 
cnamstiteh in wool, similar ruffles trim- 
muig the short sleeves. The girdle of 
sulphur ribbon was tied at each side with 
oops and ends, winch were finished with 
wange wool tassels. The deep, square 
•ollar was of organdie, the dress closing 
at the back. While this was a Summer 
'* n orettv idea for Fall. 
• trimmed with little till; ruffles, 
with contrasting Chainstitch in wool, 
would be very attractive. 
Striped Gingham.— At the right is a 
very sn^art little frock of piuk striped 
gingham, with a white organdie girdle 
tied in a flat Bow at the back. The very 
attractive trimming consists of white or¬ 
gandie disks embroidered in pink, and 
edged with narrow Valenciennes lace. 
These are set on the striped gingham, 
which is then cut away under them, leav¬ 
ing them transparent. Sleeves and neck 
arc finished with a little ruffle of the lace. 
Notes and Novelties. —Cape wraps of 
black satin are offered for Summer wear 
in a variety of models, usually lined to the 
shoulder only. 
Lace mitts are seen, elbow length, not 
unlike those in vogue 30 years ago. At 
the present time chamoisette, suede lisle 
and other fine fabric gloves are usually 
more expensive than silk. 
„A very practical style of dress, es¬ 
pecially designed for college girls, consists 
of a blouse and knickers fastened together 
at the waist, with a sleeveless overdress. 
The appearance of the costume does not 
differ from an ordinary one-piece dress, 
but it is very easy and comfortable. The 
blouse and knickers are of satin or pon¬ 
gee; the overdress is of the same color 
in serge, oxford twill, velvet or pongee, 
while a more elaborate overdress is made 
of tucked aud braided Georgette. By 
changing the overdress the wearer has a 
totally different gown, suited for varied 
occasions. 
Separate overblouses are useful in giv¬ 
ing variety to the wardrobe. What ap¬ 
pears to be a one-piece dress may be a 
skirt attached to a thin slip bodice or 
lining with a waist separate, but made 
in one with the skirt by girdle or sash. 
If a taffeta, crepe de chine or satin gown 
is made in this way, the one skirt may 
be used with plain or dressy blouses with¬ 
out looking like a separate skirt. A sur¬ 
plice blouse with a tie-around girdle, or 
a Balkan blouse with a sash around the 
hips, will be found desirable, also silk 
tricot or fantaisie. Of course, the blouse 
must carry some of the skirt material, to 
look like one dress. Thus a black satin 
dress may have one tie-around blouse of 
black satin, and a separate overblouse of 
black satin and Georgette with a vestee 
of embroidery or a colored girdle, or 
sleeves and vest inset with silver lace. 
One may thus have one simple long- 
sleeved waist, and another with short 
sleeves and rather low neck, which make 
the. same gown suitable for different oc¬ 
casions. 
Wide-brimmed hats of peanut straw 
have had a wonderful vogue this year. 
Originally these hats appeared some years 
ago, in natural color, but the material is 
now dyed in every color, and finished with 
a handsome gloss. Coral, orchid and old 
blue are favorite shades. Wreaths to 
trim such hats cost from about $2.50 up, 
mixed flowers being greatly favored. For 
the first Summer in several years, velvet 
hats are entirely out of date, and there 
is also very little use of furs. The big 
fur scarfs in which women sweltered last 
Summer are now old-fashioned for warm- 
weather wear. 
A Man on Overalls 
What seems to be the matter with the 
world since it is made safe for democracy? 
I can’t see why there should be so much 
attention paid to women wearing overalls. 
If they want to wear them, they will wear 
them anyway, and if they don't, nobody 
could make them, at least not those that 
I know. About 10 years ago I made a 
friendly call at a farm. 1 did not know 
the owner, hut I knew his wife and her 
parents well when she was 10 or 12 years 
old. 1 could not find her in the house, 
hut located her in the barn, cleaning out 
horse stable and barn dressed in pair 
of overalls and rubber boo's. I just 
wanted to ask where I could find the 
lady of the house when she turned around, 
and I naturally looked surprised. She 
said: “Don’t look at me that way: those 
are my working clothes. The hired men 
are busy in the fields, and this work I can 
do very easily dressed the way I am. and 
anyway I would not trust Dolly to any 
man." Dolly was her own horse, a very 
splendid one too. Whenever she came 
to town she always was dressed up as 
dainty as any lady you would like to see. 
I approved of her common sense to find 
comfortable clothing for her work. She 
said it took her quite a little while to 
get used to it,, but she wouldn’t do with¬ 
out it now. She told me that she need 
not work at all, but that she liked to take 
care of their stock in that way. 
Last Summer 1^ located a large pile of 
stones, near a country road, that I could 
make use of for foundation under a gravel 
road, so I hunted up the owner of the 
farm to get permission to take the stones. 
I only found children in the house. When 
I asked for their father, I was informed 
that he was picking grapes in the back¬ 
yard. I went to the back yard and 
found my man. He explained that the 
farm belonged to his wife, and that she 
was over on a hillside planting tobacco, 
so I drove over to the hillside, where I 
found a very busy party; four men work¬ 
ing in the field and a woman dressed in 
a pair of men’s overalls, sitting on the to¬ 
bacco planter driving a pair of horses. 
It was very.warm and dusty. She said 
that she felt comfortable that way and 
does the work of two hired men. I came 
to the conclusion that the right kind of 
woman adapts herself to what she thinks 
is the best for herself in spite of stvle or 
newspaper notoriety. f. b. r. 
Connecticut. 
The Robin with the Broken Wing 
Pi op’s home was in the topmost 
branches of a large sugar maple tree on 
a farm in Newark Valley, Tioga County. 
A. 1. About the time he was ready to 
fly a red squirrel came running along 
looking for something good to eat. He 
caught Pipp by the wing, breaking it. and 
Pipp s mother made such a fight that she 
drove the squirrel away, and Pipp fell 
down in the grass. He cried so loud that 
I heard the uoise of the bird and the 
Scolding of the squirrel and rescued Pipp. 
lather suggested that we save the 
bird, so we cut long strips of cloth, put 
the wing in place close to his body, and 
wrapped the bird round and round the 
body with the cloth. I put the bird in 
a large wire cage and gave him a good 
breakfast. He was not satisfied with the 
breakfast, but wanted to continue the 
meal indefinitely, and it kept me busy 
finding nice big. juicy -worms to keep 
Pipp’s mouth filled and silent. 
In due time the wing healed and Pipp 
became very tame. The feathers grew 
out nicely and the plumage was in fine 
shape, showing the black spots on his 
chest. He was as handsome a young 
robin as one would wish to see. He be¬ 
came so tame that it was safe to let him 
fly around all day. Of course, after the 
injury to his wing, the mother bird lost 
track of him. He would follow me about 
the farm all day long, and eat all the 
worms and grubs I could give him. At 
night he always came home and was shut 
up in his cage so that no strange cats 
could kill him. The house eat on the 
farm was given instructions and made to 
understand that Pipp was part of the 
family and should not be molested, so he 
enjoyed drinking fresh milk from a dish 
at the same time with the cat. and would 
sometimes perch on the cat’s back. 
Of course there was no mother bird to 
teach him how to pick up his food. After 
he grew large enough to feed himself it 
took much patience to teach him to pick 
food from the ground, but after he once 
learned the trick he took great pleasure 
in picking up everything he could lift, 
stones, sticks, etc., but soou found out ; 
what things were good to eat. He became 
a great pet. and was a very fine-looking 
bird when the Summer ended. Everyone 
said I must keep the bird shut up or he 
would fly away to the South, but I was 
willing for him to go South, where it is 
warm and he could get his own food all 
Winter, aud very sure that he would ' 
come back to me in the Spring. 
One pleasant day in Indian Summer 
Pipp was uneasy and restless, and when 
night came calling aud whistling for him 
brought no response. He had evidently 
started for his Southern home. Pipp’s 
friends were not sure whether he had 
gone South or been caught by some prowl¬ 
ing cat. The only thing to do was to 
wait until the next Spring, so when the 
time came for the migration of the robius 
northward I was on the lookout for my 
old friend. One morning I saw a robin 
in the sweet apple tree and heard him 
calling. I whistled to him aud called 
“Pipp.” He answered me and flew down 
and perched on my finger. Pipp had come 
back. I carried him into the house and 
gave him a good breakfast. I took care 
of him and petted him all through that 
year, but as he grew older and required 
less care he was not petted so much and 
gradually became less accustomed to 
handling, so that when he went South 
that Fall and returned the next Spring, 
although I knew the robin, because he 
would come to he fed and answer to my 
••all. he would not allow me to catch him. 
I would try in every way possible to 
catch him. but.all in vaiii. He would 
take food from my fingers, but would not 
let me put my hands on him. 
During the first year Pipp did not sing, 
hut the seeond year he was a fine singer, 
and seemed to take delight in sitting on 
my shoulder or hand and singing his 
morninsr or evening song. 
The first year of his residence with me 
Pipn’s appetite was so great that that he 
would open his mouth and take worms 
when his crop was so full that he would 
shut his hill to keep them in. and in spite 
of shutting his mouth as tightly as he I 
could the angleworms would crawl out. 
and still Pipp would open his mouth for 
more. I used to like to stuff him just to 
see the worms crawl out. 
L. E. PATTERSON. 
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1 Address: 
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