The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
138 f 
The Home Dressmaker 
Embroidered Trimmings. —There are 
two special features noticeable in new 
Fall dresses—the lavish use of embroid¬ 
ery, especially in wool, and the long- 
waisted outline. In the ) st picture two 
new blue serge gowns are shown. These 
are both midnight blue. The skirt at 
the left shows a deep yoke, a style that 
has been out of favor for several years. 
Below the yoke the skirt was laid in box 
pleats, rather wide apart, except in front, 
where there was a panel of accordion 
pleating that did not reach quite to the 
bottom of the skirt. The yoke was edged 
with a band of terra-cotta broadcloth 
about an inch and a half wide, embroid¬ 
ered in dull green. The waist was of the 
tie-around style, folded at the waist so 
as to do without a girdle. This waist 
had a band of the embroidered terra-cotta 
cloth across the chest, with above this 
four disks of dull green cloth, appliqued 
on with black stitching. The round neck 
was finished with pointed embroidery in 
black, terra cotta and green. The sleeves 
were handsomely trimmed with three 
bands, first the embroidered terra-cotta 
cloth, then disks of green cloth, and then 
colored embroidery like that around the 
neck. This gave a depth of trimming 
extending well up the arm. This style 
of trimming shows the influence of the 
Czecho-Slovak countries, where such em¬ 
broideries are freely used on costumes of 
both men and women. It will be possible 
in altering a partly worn or out-of-style 
dress, to make use of such trimming to 
good advantage, as first cost is slight, and 
excellent results are obtained with no 
great amount of work. 
A Serge Slip-on. —The dress at the 
right is dark blue serge also, made in a 
loose slip-on style. It is all made in one 
piece, simply drawn in a little at the 
waist with a narrow girdle, brought 
around the waist twice, and looped in 
front. The waist opens in a deep V at 
the front, with revers and turnover collar; 
the little vestee is of tucked white net. 
The only trimming on the whole dress 
was the deep cuff on the sleeves, which 
was very novel and striking. This con¬ 
sisted of a band of silver braid at the 
edge of the cuff, put on in a series of 
curves. Above this was a broad band 
of rose-colored satin, bordered at top and 
bottom with gold braid. The satin was 
embroidered with a diamond mesh of 
black and white silk, with a jet bead at 
each intersection of the network. This 
was a very pretty trimming, and could 
be developed in a variety of color combi¬ 
nations. It would be very pretty in 
white satin combined with jet and silver. 
The hat shown is a black velours tricorne, 
with an ornament of hackle feathers at 
the side. 
Three Juvenile Models. —The second 
picture shows three juvenile models, all 
trimmed with wool embroidery. At the 
Ttco Models In Blue Serge 
left is a little bishop dress of rose-colored 
challie. It is ut with sleeves and dress 
all in one, the full sleeves being pleated 
at the wrist. The round neck, sleeves 
and bottom of the skirt are trimmed with 
stiff little flowers embroidered in wool in 
blue and green. There is no belt, the 
dress hanging loose. The little poke bon¬ 
net was rose-colored silk, with a pleated 
border, and a trimming of embroidered 
flowers. The same style is shown in 
black taffeta with bright-colored embroid¬ 
ered flowers, bonnet and all being of the 
taffeta. 
Black Taffeta. —The little dress i 
the center is black taffeta, a plain loos 
one-piece dress, with a deep pointed open 
'ag m the front, filled in with a veste 
of white crepe de chine. The dress i 
fastened with snaps down one side of thi 
opening. Around the neck, sleeves, ves 
and hem is embroidery in bright-colore 
wool, which includes 
about one inch across, 
would be very pretty 
chiillvo with a pique 
down both sides with 
could be taken out for 
crocheted rose; 
The same stylt 
in solid coloret 
vestee, fastener 
snaps, so that il 
washing. Con 
and tassels of terra cotta wool were tie 
across the top of the vestee. 
Dotted Challie,—A t the right is 
Z'l “ogel m dotted challie. black an 
"hite, the pleated skirt being attache 
to the plain waist with two narrow lines 
of black ribbon velvet. The top of the 
skirt forms an upstanding frill, lined with 
white. The edge of round hieck and 
sleeves was finished w T ith a line of cro¬ 
chet in henna-colored wool; below this 
was a wreath of little blue crocheted roses 
united by a line of leaf-green chain stitch, 
all of wool. This was a particularly 
pretty dress, and the idea is an excellent 
one. A great many new Fall dresses for 
girls of all ages are dotted challie, and 
black and white is a favorite combination. 
Children’s dresses are very plainly made, 
their style depending on little novelties 
in trimmings, or clever color combina¬ 
tions. 
Notes and Novelties.— When exam¬ 
ining a ready-made wash skirt it will be 
noticed that it is not gathered into a 
band, in the old style. There is an inside 
Three Frocks For Juniors 
band of woven belting, and the gathers 
are brought over the top of this, and 
faced with a narrow tape. Two or three 
rows of shirring keep the skirt flat under 
the separate belt. The same plan is used 
with pleated skirts, which often have a 
row of machine stitching near the belt 
top to hold them flat, the stitching going 
through the fabric, but not atttachiug to 
belt. In stitching skirt to belt both are 
laid flat, the top of skirt overlapping edge 
of belt. A tape is used as facing, being 
laid flat along edge, on the belting, and 
stitched in place, thus covering the raw 
edge. 
Some attractive scarfs of soft cash- 
mere are seen for wear -with walking suits, 
some fringed at the ends, and some with 
the edge embroidered in wool in bright 
colors. These cost from .$5 to $8.50. 
Velours hats are appearing in colors 
and black, round models and tricornes. 
So far velvet hats are conspicuously ab¬ 
sent. Velours is so light, serviceable and 
becoming that it is eminently desirable, 
and we think it will be in great favor 
during the Winter. 
We recently saw smoothly woven .Jap¬ 
anese crape, in solid colors, for 38 cents 
a yard; this fabric has appeared to be 
scarce through the whole season. It is 
excellent for children’s clothes, and for 
house dresses, launders easily, and has 
more body than percale or charnbray. 
The most popular garment of the sea¬ 
son is the overblouse, and it has the great 
merit of simplifying dress and making 
for comfort in hot weather. But main- 
girls wear such gauzy overblouses, and 
such inappropriate skirts, that they in¬ 
vite criticism, and bring discredit on a 
sensible fashion. 
Thoughts of a Farm Woman 
(Continued from page 1371) 
the situation I have just been discussing 
—the unequal struggle between the farmer 
of the worn-out hills and his “soft” 
brother, the farmer of the rich and 
abundant West. The author shows how 
Westerners can farm it with half the ef¬ 
fort or less which must be put forth by 
the New Englander, and how the money 
rolls in for the former because of his be¬ 
ing able to use the latest machinery on 
his. level, rich land, while the other mr t 
strive for a lifetime and only show for his 
pains the prolit earned by his competitor 
iu a single season. The story goes on 
to prove that work makes meu of muscle 
and hard strength, but that the siekening- 
ly small profits make their souls narrow 
and mean. The ending is not really con¬ 
sistent, as the hero eventually goes back 
to his lone farm of stones iu the Vermont 
hills to live happily ever after. I think 
he would have remained in the valleys in 
real life, and in spite of being beaten out 
of his productive bottom land, would have 
started in all over again, and in time 
have made his pile, as so many have done 
and will do. Whether to keep on with 
the isolated farm is a big matter indeed, 
and one which is very near the hearts of 
our American farmers. It would seem 
that so many are deserting any kind of 
farm for the city that a better located one 
could. be bought reasonably now. if ever, 
and instead of spending one's life in a 
constant struggle with nature, it would 
be the better part of valor to move off 
and try greener fields. I wish the editor 
would see fit to take up a discussion of 
this problem, and let our brothers and 
sisters of the bills speak for themselves. 
I'erhaps I am all wrong in thinking their 
future precarious in a financial way and 
if .so the proof should be forthcoming. 
Will American farming in the future be 
conducted solely by machine in the val¬ 
leys while the hill farms fade away be¬ 
cause they can’t compete? What is the 
real answer? h. s. K. \v. 
Two Home 
Youll Never 
Part With 
Are wife and baby. 
You’d do anything possible for 
their comfort; for their health; 
for their protection. Of course 
you would unless you forgot. 
Don’t put off investigating the 
Inter H4TI0H4L 
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I mt e r n/m o i\a l H e^tter 
C oop/irjy 
Makers of Boilers, Fumacoi 
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6*26 Monroe St, 
UTICA. H. Y. 
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ALWAYS SAVE 
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Catalog 
No. 1010 
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51 BARCLAY ST., NEW YORK CITY 
Branch Stores Everywhere. 
HOSIERY SALE *12! 
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353 Clinton Street Haledon. New Jersey 
wh i iuun rituii 
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A ddress :— 
The Rural New-Yorker 
333 W. 30th Street New York City 
