?fte RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1553 
The Home Dressmaker 
Crepe de-Chine and Beads. —In the 
first picture the simple dress shown at 
th<‘ left was dark blue crepe de chine, 
trimmed with round black wooden beads 
and embroidery. It was very simple, but 
had an air of good style that, would appeal 
to a conservative taste. It was merely 
a straight gathered skirt and 'bloused bod¬ 
ice. the waist line being rather low. Both 
waist and skirt were trimmed with bands 
of embroidery, the center being large, 
round beads of black wood, rather like 
children’s kindergarten beads, the re¬ 
mainder black silk with an occasional 
touch of old rose. The long, tight sleeves 
had two bands of this embroidery at the 
wrist. The round neck was not very 
low. This dress could be fastened down 
the shoulder under the arm. with placket 
at the side, or down the center, hiding 
the fastening under the banding, though 
in this case also it would be more desir¬ 
able to carry the skirt baud over to a 
side placket. This would be a smart 
frock for a very slender young woman or 
half-grown girl. The hat shown with it 
is a sports style in corded crepe de chine, 
light taupe in color. 
Ax Embroidered Redingote. — The 
dress at the right is tine French serge, 
black with old blue embroidery. The 
skirt and vestee were accordion ideated. 
The long redingote was without a belt, 
curving in a little at the waist, and had 
long lines of chainstitch in blue wool, ex¬ 
tending from above the waist, down 
over the skirt, this embroidery flaring 
out on the tunic to follow the flare of the 
redingote. These lines were finished with 
flat roses of old blue silk. These roses 
were made of bias foldts of silk, coiled 
into a fiat flower. We have seen them 
used quite freely in trimming lately, com¬ 
bined with wool embroidery; they are 
simple to make, but quire effective. There 
was a band of blue wool embroidery out¬ 
lining the square neck. The three-quarter 
length bell sleeves had umlersleeves of 
black crepe de chine, gathered into a plain 
band at the wrist. Sleeves of this shape 
are seen in many of the Fall dresses, 
either the three-quarter or full-length bell 
sleeve alone, or the same style with gath¬ 
ered undersleeve. The hat is a tricorne 
shape of black duvetyne, with a burnt 
ostrich aigrette. 
Blue Serge for the Little Gibes.— 
In the second picture all three of the 
models shown arc dark blue serge, 
trimmed with cherry-red wool. The dress 
at the left made .in sizes up to 10 years, 
had a plain gathered skirt and a plain 
waist with raglan sleeves. The sleeves 
were gathered at the wrist into a plain 
band, trimmed with red wool embroidery, 
and a line of red wool chainstitch outlined 
the shoulder seams of the raglan sleeve. 
In front a bib trimming was formed by 
a rectangle of chainstitch, with a hand 
of embroidery above it. This embroidery 
was alternate square and round blocks of 
led wool, the same pattern in a smaller 
sizo being used between chainstitch lines. 
Hie belt was three strands <*f wool do¬ 
cketed into cord, and tlicu braided. This 
sort of braided wool cord is often used for 
girdles and other trimming. It will be 
seen that this frock was very simple: 
there was nothing about it that could not 
he made by the home dressmaker, and 
the effect was extremely smart and ef¬ 
fective. 
A One-piece Frock. —In the center is 
n _ne of the simple one-piece models, ns 
simple in cut as an old-fashioned gahriellc 
wrapper. It. was effectively trimmed 
vi.th cherry-colored wool, the embroidery 
arranged in panels in back and 
iront. These panels, rounded at the bot¬ 
tom, were finished with tassels. The 
round neck had a narrow trimming of the 
an ^ the bell sleeves were trimmed 
1 two bands of wool embroidery about 
the elbow. 
. ^T IT ;h Another Blue Serge.- 
’'glit is another dark blue serge, 
ease with n deep collar and cuffs i 
Poplin. The deep, pointed collar 
o\\n the front with red wool* 
11 m shed with tassels. The w 
trimmed at the left side with fou 
tmoii n "h 00 , 1 Pmbroidery with lo< 
fcma11 ^11 buttons of the wool. 
waist there is a girdle of red woolen cord. 
We notice many woolen dresses for chil¬ 
dren. rather than the fine cottons that 
are often worn in city houses all the year 
round. It may be that laundry difficul¬ 
ties are creating a greater demand for 
dark dresses, but fashion does not usually 
consider such practical difficulties. These 
serge frocks are practical, as well as very 
pretty. For school wear, we still see the 
pleated serge skirts worn with a middy 
blouse, either of blue serge or white drill, 
and nothing could be more suitable or 
becoming for girls up to 34 or Ri years. 
Notes and Novelties. — Sleeves are 
longer: many Autumn gowns show bell 
sleeves of three-quarter length. We also 
see these bell sleeves with a full under- 
sleeve gathered into a wristband, with a 
very old-fashioned effect. The serge dresses 
worn during the Summer usually had 
very short sleeves, but this style does 
not appear in Fall models. 
It will be noticed in examining a ready¬ 
made skirt that the separate belt is often 
attached in one place only, where a stem 
of thread or silk about an inch long is 
finished firmly by working like the loop 
for a hook. This stem is attached to 
skirt and belt, holding them together, but 
giving a little play, so that the belt, cannot 
slip around out of place, hut still is sep¬ 
arate. 
Princess slips of wash satin, white or 
flesh, are made in a plain tailored hem¬ 
stitched model for wear under Georgette 
or other thin dresses. 
Fall house dresses in ramie linen are 
offered for wear in steam-heated apart¬ 
ments. where constant Summer tempera¬ 
ture makes woolen unnecessary. One 
pretty mauve linen had large squares of 
white stitching, plaiding it. all over: oth¬ 
ers had the omnipresent wool embroidery. 
Bugle beads have returned to favor for 
trimming. They are used alone, for trim¬ 
ming dreeses. or in combination with 
round beads or with wool. One serge 
dress seen was trimmed with diamond¬ 
shaped blocks of iridescent bugles, the 
bugles being put on skirt, waist and 
sleeves. Rusty-looking old-fashioned passe¬ 
menterie. such as used to appear on 
matronly wraps and dolmans stored 
away and forgotten, may be brought to 
light now. and taken apart to yield- a 
harvest of bugles or other beads. These 
beads are surprisingly expensive now, 
but a few will be a wonderful help in 
trimming. 
Hand-made under bodices from Porto 
Rico were recently «seeu. both in lingerie 
materials and in black and midnight blue 
crepe de chine. They are for wear under 
thin Georgette blouses or gowns. 
Tiny Hat buttons of gray and green 
crystal formed a part, of the trimming of 
one midnight blue prunella gown. The 
skirt had a long, narrow, wedge-shaped 
panel at each side, of close silver gray 
embroidery, and this was edged along the 
sides with the closely set buttons. Sleeves 
and vest were trimmed in the same way. 
l'his is a great season to use remnants 
of bead trimming in combination with 
wool til* silk. Even a few odd beads from 
the children's kindergarten box will some¬ 
times give the finishing touch to a piece 
of embroidery. 
Keeping Hams and Bacon 
W hiit would be the best temperature 
and atmospheric condition generally in 
which to keep home-cured hams and ba¬ 
con? The pork we cured and smoked last 
\\ inter is becoming very moldy hanging 
in the cellar: temperature 50 to t*>0 deg., 
but inclined to be damp. Is it a good 
thing to use the commercial ''paint” ad¬ 
vertised for use on hams and bacon, after 
they are cured and smoked, as a preven¬ 
tive of mold? Paraffin is advised by 
some, but aside from the fact that it 
would take a large quantity, T should 
think handling after the application would 
be apt to break paraffin from surface. 
Our bacon and hams arc sewed in cheese 
cloth, and put in paper bags. 
MRS. E. G. A. 
4 he cellar is too damp for keeping the 
meat .and is not a desirable place. A 
dry. dark, airy room upstairs would be 
preferable. The storage room should bo 
screened to keep out insects. The vari¬ 
ous washes or paraffin coating are pri¬ 
marily to prevent insect attack. If the 
meat is properly cured and smoked there 
will he little mold if the storage room is 
dry. After sewing in cheesecloth it is an 
excellent plan to brush all over with 
melted paraffin, giving an extra coating 
along seams, to repel insects. Then bang 
in a dry. dark, airy place. The New 
Jersey Experiment Station, New Bruns¬ 
wick, has issued an excellent bulletin on 
home killing and curing of pork. 
Make that chilly room comfortable 
A Perfection Oil Heater 
will drive the autumn chill 
out of uncomfortable rooms. 
It is so convenient—easy to 
carry, easy to fill, easy to 
clean. 
It is ornamental anywhere. And 
it burns for eight hours on a 
gallon of good, clean Socony 
kerosene. 
Invest in a Perfection Heater 
today and enjoy it all this fall, 
next winter and spring. 
For best results use Socony Kerosene 
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