The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1681 
The Home Dressmaker 
Scallops and Embroidery. —In t,hc 
first picture the figure at the left shows 
;i pretty use of scallops in forming an 
odge on both waist and skirt. This dress, 
which was offered for girls from eight to 
VJ years old. was of dark blue serge. 
The plain gathered skirt was curved into 
shallow scallops at the lower edge, and 
there was a small flower embroidered in 
henna red wool, with a few green leaves 
in each scallop. The waist had a jacket 
front, the edges scalloped and embroid¬ 
ered. and the short bell sleeves were fin¬ 
ished in the same way. Beneath the 
sleeve was an undersleeve of tucked 
cream-colored batiste, pointed deeper at 
the back than the front, where the seam 
was finished with a row of small cream- 
colored crocheted buttons. There was a 
vestee of the rucked batiste, which came 
down to form a little apron in front. 
The girdle terminated under this, the 
waist fastening invisibly under t.hc 
jacket fronts. This dress could be varied 
by using full undersleeves of silk, gath¬ 
ered into a band at. the wrist, and a silk 
vestee. The little hat was of blue duve- 
tyne, trimmed with woolen fruit and 
foliage, while the cape was knitted, with 
ul angora collar. 
A Juvenile Frock and Winter Coat 
A ('ape Coat. —The little coat shown 
at the right was very attractive, being a 
warm shade of peacock blue with collar 
and cuffs of gray squirrel. The plain 
coat had a deep cape coming just below 
the waist. This style of coat is very pop¬ 
ular for the lesser girls, and. indeed, we 
see capes or deep collars on many grown¬ 
up coats, too. Either peacock blue or 
old rose with gray squirrel trimming is 
smart and pretty for juvenile wear. 
Many of these little coats have a fur- 
trimmed cloth muff to match. One style 
noted was a round melon muff of cloth, 
shirred closely with lines of shirring 
about two inches apart. A flat stitched 
strap of cloth was passed around the muff 
in the center, the pointed end being fas¬ 
tened with a cloth button. Bands of fur 
trimmed the ends of the muff, and a little 
hat of the same cloth was trimmed with 
fur pompons. 
Straight-line Models. — The three 
models in the second group all show the 
straight, narrow silhouette now demand¬ 
'd. At the left is a dress of henna-col¬ 
ored velveteen. The long yoke is a 
novelty now featured, the lower part of 
the dress being gathered into this yoke. 
I'he round neck and short sleeves were 
Trimmed with two very narrow bauds of 
skunk fur. There was no other trimming, 
except that the narrow girdle was tipped 
with fur. Nothing could be plainer than 
this gown, but it was very effective, and 
an excellent model for duvetyne. velours 
or velveteen. The hat shown had a 
crown of henna velvet, bordered with a 
wreath of black gtyceriued ostrich feath¬ 
ers. 
Braid and Embroidery.— The central 
figure shows a dress of Malay brown 
cloth, trimmed with braid and embroid¬ 
ery from neck to hem. This gives the 
long lines, and makes a , lain dress very 
effective. The braid was black : the em¬ 
broidery rose and green, with a little 
gilt. The hat. made of the same cloth, 
consisted of a full tam-o’-shanter crown 
gathered into a narrow brim. 
Bead Embroidery.— At the right is the 
very straightest straight-line dress that 
we have seen; it had little more Hare 
than a length of stove pipe, and the line 
was not even broken by a girdle in front, 
it was dark blue Poiret twill, embroid¬ 
ered in iridescent bugle beads, with an 
occasional touch of black and henna silk. 
* embroidery, as shown, did not meet 
id. front, hut formed a rectangular panel, 
going up to the hip at the sides. A sash 
started under the arms, and was tied in 
ihc hack, just like a little girl’s pinafore, 
i here was a narrow band of the euibroid- 
' r ?. u ! tl "‘ found neck and the wrists, 
this dress was priced at $70. Naturally 
. amount of embroidery would add 
largely to the cost. 
( hanging Styles. —For many genera- 
imtis dress reformers have been denounc¬ 
ing corsets. and telling women how much 
" iter and happier they would be without 
am. A great many young women have 
v°f V g' Veri up the offending garments, and 
■ *‘t f >0 reformers are not satisfied: they 
'oinplain that fashionable dress is not 
modest. The present styles are in most 
cases loose at the waist line, the dress 
anging from the shoulders, which is just 
what dress reformers have urged upon us, 
and a conspicuously corseted figure does 
not carry the lines properly. But we see 
many young women who hold themselves 
so awkwardly, and walk so badly, when 
they leave off the restraining corset, that 
we realize its place in tin* civilized ward¬ 
robe. Better physical training for gilds 
is needed, as well ae reforms in dress. 
.Sewing-room Notes. —A doth dress 
from last season may cause dissatisfac¬ 
tion this Fall because of the different 
waist line. The new waist line is low. 
and last year’s dress, with a well-defined 
girdle, is quite different. One way to 
overcome this is by loosening the lower 
edge of the waist, and giving an Eton 
effect. It need not, necessarily, he open 
in front to show a vest, for there are some 
Etons without closing at. the front, fas¬ 
tened invisibly at. the shoulder and arm 
seam. The lower edge hangs loose over 
a folded girdle with ends looped low at 
side or back. The lower edge of the 
Eton may be finished with braid or em¬ 
broidery. Blocks of colored wool em¬ 
broidery across the front, ’here the waist 
fastens at the side, around the lower edge, 
and finishing the sleeves, will make a new 
dress from an old one. Bands of em¬ 
broidery at the elbow, instead of at tbe 
cuff, are a touch of novelty. 
Black lace and net are used for hand¬ 
some dinner or restaurant, gowns. Plain 
black silk Tosca and Brussels net. 40 to 
71! inches wide, is $1.50 to $2.95 a yard. 
Black silk dotted net is $1.50 to $3.50 
;he yard. Black Chantilly lace flouncing 
from IS to 40 inches wide costs from 
$1.75 to $IS a yard. 
Bust colored Georgette veiled with Ma¬ 
lax brown, with a little embroidery of 
gold and rust color, was the combination 
seen in one very smart blouse. 
Simple tailored blouses of xvhite dimity 
are again procurable, both with high and 
\ neck: they cost $2.95 and $3.95. Crepe 
de chine blouses with blue or pink candy 
stripes, the flat collar and cuff edged with 
a fine pleating of crepe de ( .iue. were seen 
for $7.50. Blouses of Yyella fiauuel, with 
an adjustable neck, in colors and white, 
were $8.75: many women like a blouse 
of this character for severe weather, and 
it is especially desirable for country wear 
with a separate skirt. 
Among the colors >eeu in Fall and 
Winter suits are reindeer. Malay brown, 
dryad brown, dark Chinese blue, midnight 
blue, juniper green and taupe. 
A stout woman will find comfort, as 
well as greater trimnees of figure, as a 
result of wearing a well-fitting brassiere 
Three iSlruiyht-liue Houns 
over the corset. Corsets are now so low 
in cut that they give little support t<. the 
bust, and the brassiere ie necessary. The 
loxy bandeaux so much worn are only 
suitable for slim, girlish figures. 
Wooden beads about the size of a pea 
are often used in embroidery or dress 
trimming. They come in various colors 
-at around 50 cents for a string of about 
"tie hundred. Glass and porcelain beads 
or. much higher in price than formerly. 
Bugle beads begiu at about 50 to 60 cents 
a string. Imitation pearl beads are all 
the way from three to 10 times as ex¬ 
pensive as before the war. excepting the 
Poor gi ades. We are now receix’fng 
handsome head-work from Czechoslovakia 
especially bead bags. 
Gray wool embroidery on dark blue 
eloth dresses is still popular. Rather an 
udd eomluuutiou was white xvool embroid¬ 
ery on black velvet. 
Keep the Hands Soft 
Place a large glass partly filled with 
vinegar and water, equal parts (soft 
water preferred), where it will be con¬ 
venient. to dip the hands in after they have 
been in soapsuds, just, before drying them. 
This i< very effective to prevent roughen¬ 
ing and skin diseases, and is of benefit 
to the worst case of chapped hands, salt 
rheum or the like. g a. t 
Cocoanut Drop Cookies 
Two tablespoons of melted butter, two 
tablespoons milk, one egg. one-half cup 
sugar, 1 cup Hour, one teaspoon baking 
powder, one cup cocoanut. Mix and drop 
with a teaspoon on well-greased tins and 
bake in a quick oven. j. m. 
i 
Confidence in ‘HANES ’ 
_can never be misplaced! 
_ ELASTIC KNIT 
Underwear 
“I_JANES” underwear 
1 1 for men has been 
standard for years! Be¬ 
yond any question it is 
the best value in actual 
quality, comfort and 
service ever sold at the 
price! The “Hanes” 
guarantee is your assur¬ 
ance of absolute satis¬ 
faction. Read it! 
Examine “Hanes” 
critically. You never 
saw—or bought—such 
real and true underwear 
service. 
Read Hanes Guarantee: 
"We guarantee Hanes Underwear absolute¬ 
ly —every thread, stitch and button. ^ We 
guarantee to return your money or ”give 
you a new garment ii any seam breaks /’ 
"Hanes” is made in heavy and 
medium weight Union Suits and 
heavy weight Shirts and Drawers. 
This year we present the new 
yellow label medium weight, silk 
trimmed Union Suit, made of full 
combed yam particularly for men 
who prefer a medium weight 
union suit. 
Hanes Union Suits 
for boys 
They duplicate the men’s Union 
Suits in all important features— 
with added cosy fleeciness. Made 
in sizes 20 to 34, covering ages 
from 2 to 16 years. Two to four 
year old_ sizes have drop seat. 
Four desirable colors. 
Inspect "Hanes” under¬ 
wear at your dealer's. If 
he cannot supply you , 
write us immediately. 
P. H. Hanes Knitting Co. 
Winston-Salem, N. C. 
New York Office: 366 Broadway 
Next Summer-You’ll want to wear “Hanes” Nainsook Union Saits 
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Hi lIPSl 
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OiJ Heaters 
STANDARD OIL CO. OF NEW YORK 
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