I 
Celery Blanching and Storing 
Would you tell ine how I can bank or 
keep table celery all Winter? I have 
about 1.000 plants. Last year they start¬ 
ed to rot. Also, how to blanch it. h. 8 . 
Glendale, N. Y. 
To blanch celery the light must be ex¬ 
cluded. and one of the simple methods is 
to bank Tvith soil, leaving only the tons 
of the leaves exposed. Building paper or 
boards may be used on either side of the 
row in place of soil, or each bunch may 
be wrapped in an individual paper. Any 
method whereby the light is excluded will 
cause the blanching. Celery may be 
stored in the row where it is grown by 
banking with soil and ju>t before severe 
freezing cover the tops with coarse ma¬ 
nure or straw. This method is objec¬ 
tionable, as it is hard to remove after the 
ground freezes. The following methods 
are employed with succes f this local¬ 
ity : Dig a trench a foot w'lufc and about 
20 in. deep and loosen the soil thoroughly 
in the bottom. Take up the celery plants 
and pack them in the trench with the 
roots close together, as shown in the 
cut. Water the plants and allow the 
trench to remain open until the tops dry. 
Place a board on edge along one side of 
the trench and bank with soil. Then 
cover the trench with cornstalks with one 
end resting on the board, the other on the 
ground. We place leaves over the stalks 
as severe weather approaches, and the 
celery keeps until early Spring. Where 
one has an unused hotbed pit, the same 
can be utilized as shown in cut below. A 
covering of boards and cornstalks is 
placed over the pit instead of the sash. 
Straw or leaves should’ be placed over the 
top to keep out the frost. T. H. T. 
Pruning Currants and Gooseberries 
Would you give me information regard¬ 
ing the care and pruning of currant and 
gooseberry bushes? w. .t. f. 
New York City. 
With both currants and gooseberries 
the fruit is borne on one-year shoots, and 
on one-year spurs which develop from 
the two and three-year-old wood. Most 
of the wood over three years should be cut 
out. and only enough of the first-year 
wood left to maintain a yearly supply of 
the younger wood. From BIX to eight 
canes are sufficient per bush. Ordinarily 
most bushes are left too thick, and better 
fruit can be secured from the minimum 
number of canes. Pruning may be done 
any time after the leaves have dropped, 
up to the time growth starts in the 
Spring. Both currants and gooseberries 
do better when cultivated and fertilized, 
yet for family use success comes by sim¬ 
ply mulching with leaves or stable ma¬ 
nure. Stable manure is one of the best 
fertilizers, and as these plants are rank 
feeders, liberal applications are essential 
for success. t. h. t. 
Pruning the Ever-bearing Raspberry 
Should new growth (bearing canes for 
next season) on “everbearing” raspber¬ 
ries, be cut back on the theory of produc¬ 
ing more laterals? I say this siuce we 
get a first year’s crop on the new wood 
first year, and same comes on the end of 
the cane. Do we sacrifice late Fall ber¬ 
ries by cutting back? w. c. A. 
Wellesley, Mass. 
The first or early crop is borne on last 
year’s wood, and the late or Fall crop is 
borne on new canes that spring up from 
the root, and these in turn bear the early 
crop the next year, aud so on in regular 
rotation. Therefore no pniuing is nec¬ 
essary other than to cut out the old clus¬ 
ters, and any other dead wood that is 
present. This can be done any mild day 
during the Winter or in early Spring. 
This old wood cut out should be removed 
From the patch aud burned. By so doing 
many insects, such as cane borers, etc., 
and their eggs, are destroyed: also spores 
of fuugus diseases that might find lodg¬ 
ment on the old canes. K. 
He: “They say there is going to be 
a general rise in bread.” Sue: “Dear 
me! What is the cause of it?" lie. 
I guess it is the yeast they put in the 
dough,” —Baltimore American. 
7ht RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1737 
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r 
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