'The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1851 
Horticultural Notes 
Utilizing a Second-hand Greenhouse 
T have just bought a second-hand green¬ 
house. The greenhouse proper, exclusive 
of boiler-room, is 50x16 ft., sides 4 ft., 
ridge of roof about 10y> ft. from ground. 
I shall put it on foundation from which 
barn has been moved, against a north wall 
M!) ft. long, with east and west walls long 
and high enough to come to where glass 
begins. The north wall is 0 ft. high, and 
Hush with surface of ground planted with 
shrub*. The ground surf ce slopes down 
on the east side, and is cut away alto¬ 
gether on west; open to the south all the 
way without obstruction. I plan to use 
only the greenhouse proper, not using it 
in Winter and heating from March ou 
by oil stove, partitioning oft" one end as a 
cold frame if necessary to conserve heat, 
according to a plan published in The 
It. X.-Y. Shall raise tomato, eggplant, 
peppers, cabbage, etc., also Salvia. maYi- 
gold, Zinnia, snapdragon, Calendula, etc., 
for sale in a small way. I plan using 35 
ft. of greenhouse as close against north 
and west walls as possible, and below 
drain-trough seal up space between sides 
of house and the rough wall to increase 
warmth. One door at east end. Are the 
above plans feasible? How would it do 
not to have raised benches (three longi¬ 
tudinal), but to build beds on the ground 
and cut down height of sides to match? 
Is bottom heat with the raised bench bet¬ 
ter than earth heat and the elimination 
of the. problem of rotting wooden 
benches? If this is advisable, how high 
for bolting the present eaves plate to it 
permanently. It is better to have about 
two feet of glass under the eaves on the 
north as well as the south side of the 
house, but as I understand the plan here 
is to build as close to the present wall as 
possible, in which instance it may as well 
be built right on it. 
I cannot see how anything would be 
gained by lowering the sides, nor would 
it be wise to lower the ridge and erect 
the roof with less angle or pitch than at 
present—especially if the house is to stand 
through the Winter without heat. Snow 
is very hard on a flat roof where there 
is no heat inside to melt it off. and some¬ 
times it will cause considerable damage 
in a house that is heated. Better watch 
it carefully if your section is subject to 
heavy snows. 
Solid beds upon the ground are every 
bit as useful for vegetable growing as the 
raised benches, and we find them ecpiallv 
useful for growing roses, sweet peas and 
carnations. We simply set a board 12 in. 
wide on edge, supporting it with stakes 
driven into the soil, or if you wish a 
more permanent job. the sides could be 
made of concrete as high as you may wish 
to have the bed. The idea of partitioning 
off one end in which to carry a higher 
temperature for the germiilatiou of seed 
is a very good one. You will need a 
pretty warm temperature to properly 
germinate pepper and eggplant. 
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Everbearing Strawberry Superb: Fruit Pirkrtl Oetober 29 
A. T>. Buckman of Plymouth County. 
Mass., sent us the photograph from which 
the picture shown above was taken. These 
berries were produced by Superb, an ever- 
bearing variety. They were picked Oc¬ 
tober 29. The plants which produced 
them were set about May 15, and com¬ 
menced bearing a few berries in July. 
Dir. Buckman says they picked berries 
every day up to about the first of Septem¬ 
ber; then the berries stopped producing, 
but started again by the first of October, 
and picked every other day all through 
that mouth. We have a number of good 
reports from those who have used these 
Pall-bearing varieties. It seems to have 
been demonstrated that these berries are 
very useful for the gardens or small | 
patches. Now and then someone claims | 
to have made a good profit at growing 
these Fall-growing plants in a commercial 
way. As a rule, however, they are better 
suited to small garden production, aud 
we have never advised heavy planting for 
commercial purposes. In the picture the 
size of the fruit is shown by the disk 
reared against the dish, which is the same 
size as a silver half dollar. 
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should beds rise from ground? Floor 
would be dirt, except two transverse 
strips of guttered concrete where cows 
were stanchioned. The high cost of con¬ 
crete benches seems to bar them out un¬ 
less very decidedly advisable, nor do I 
know the plan upon which they should be 
built. Since the present house is higher 
than 1 want and would require a good 
deal of heating, would it pay to widen the 
angle of the gable, making house lower 
and wider, thereby gaining more plant 
space and keeping the heat lower down? 
Not being made iu sections, the house 
will have to be all taken down piece by 
piece and built over again anyway. What 
is the proper depth of raised bench? Is 
t here a bottom layer of gravel, broken 
pots, etc., for drainage, with holes in the 
bottom of bench? If benches on ground 
are used, should there be lateral drainage 
holes? Ilow high may they be built to 
save stooping? A. s. H. 
White Plains, N. Y. 
The plan here is to erect the greenhouse 
upon the south side of a 6-ft. wall. Would 
it not be possible to use this wall for the 
north side of the greenhouse, eliminating 
the north wall of the house as it stands 
now? The gutter or eaves of the pres¬ 
ent house could be attached to the top 
by drilling holes in the old concrete wall 
and fastening bolts into it, with cement 
("oucrete beuclie.s are not worth the ex¬ 
pense of building them over solid beds 
unless you wish to grow a crop under¬ 
neath. You could grow a crop of mush¬ 
rooms! under benches only where there is 
a regular temperature at all times—and 
the temperature should be about 55 de¬ 
grees for the best results. If you have 
a cellar of some sort in which the temper¬ 
ature can be kept from 55 to 60 degrees 
at all times, you will have an ideal place 
in which to grow mushrooms. The raised 
benches usually have sides 6 in. deep, the 
bottom boards are 6 in. wide and spaced 
about r /> in. apart for drainage. A layer 
of coarse manure is placed over the bot¬ 
tom, and tin* soil placed on this will not 
fall through the cracks. Drainage is 
necessary with the solid bed only where 
the subsoil is of the hardpan nature. You 
can determine this by noting whether or 
not water lies on tin 1 surface or soaks 
away rapidly, either .after a rain or if it 
is run on with a hose. It will be neces¬ 
sary to break up the old concrete where 
the beds extend over it. as that would not 
allow any drainage at all. Oil stoves will 
do to heat the house in the Spring, and 
also in tin' Fall if you wish to follow the 
plants with pompons or other Chrysan¬ 
themums. The pompons would be the 
easiest to grow for the amateur, and 
(piite a nice profit could be realized with¬ 
out using very much heat, as they will 
stand ii light freeze without any notice¬ 
able damage. ELMER J, WEAVER. 
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