VIII 
CONVERSATION OF THE INHABITANTS 
157 
their station, their conversation was rather amusing. They 
expressed, as was usual, unbounded astonishment at the globe 
being round, and could scarcely credit that a hole would, if 
deep enough, come out on the other side. 1 hey had, however, 
heard of a country where there were six months light and six 
of darkness, and where the inhabitants were very tall and thin ! 
They were curious about the price and condition of horses and 
cattle in England. Upon finding out we did not catch our 
animals with the lazo, they cried out, “Ah, then, you use 
nothing but the bolas : ” the idea of an enclosed country was 
quite new to them. The captain at last said, he had one 
question to ask me, which he should be very much obliged if 
I would answer with all truth. I trembled to think how 
deeply scientific it would be : it was, “ Whether the ladies of 
Buenos Ayres were not the handsomest in the world;” I 
replied, like a renegade, “ Charmingly so.” He added, “ I 
have one other question : Do ladies in any other part of the 
world wear such large combs ? ” I solemnly assured him that 
they did not. They were absolutely delighted. The captain 
exclaimed, “ Look there ! a man who has seen half the world 
says it is the case ; we always thought so, but now we know 
it.” My excellent judgment in combs and beauty procured 
me a most hospitable reception ; the captain forced me to take 
his bed, and he would sleep on his recado. 
21st .—Started at sunrise, and rode slowly during the 
whole day. The geological nature of this part of the province 
was different from the rest, and closely resembled that of the 
Pampas. In consequence, there were immense beds of the 
thistle, as well as of the cardoon : the whole country, indeed, 
may be called one great bed of these plants. The two sorts 
grow separate, each plant in company with its own kind. The 
cardoon is as high as a horse’s back, but the Pampas thistle is 
often higher than the crown of the rider’s head. To leave the 
road for a yard is out of the question ; and the road itself is 
partly, and in some cases entirely, closed. Pasture, of course, 
there is none ; if cattle or horses once enter the bed, they are 
for the time completely lost. Hence it is very hazardous to 
attempt to drive cattle at this season of the year ; for when 
jaded enough to face the thistles, they rush among them, and 
are seen no more. In these districts there are very few 
