522 
ASCENSION 
CHAP. 
Approaching close to the brink, where the current seemed to 
be deflected upwards from the face of the cliff, I stretched out 
my arm, and immediately felt the full force of the wind ; an 
invisible barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly calm 
air from a strong blast. 
I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and 
mountains of St. Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the 
morning of the 14th to descend to the town. Before noon I 
was on board, and the Beagle made sail. 
On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who 
have beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, 
will at once be able to picture to themselves the appearance of 
Ascension. They will imagine smooth conical hills of a bright 
red colour, with their summits generally truncated, rising 
separately out of a level surface of black rugged lava. A 
principal mound in the centre of the island seems the father of 
the lesser cones. It is called Green Hill ; its name being taken 
from the faintest tinge of that colour, which at this time of the 
year is barely perceptible from the anchorage. To complete 
the desolate scene, the black rocks on the coast are lashed by 
a wild and turbulent sea. 
The settlement is near the beach ; it consists of several 
houses and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of white 
freestone. The only inhabitants are marines, and some negroes 
liberated from slave-ships, who are paid and victualled by 
government. There is not a private person on the island. 
Many of the marines appeared well contented with their 
situation ; they think it better to serve their one-and-twenty 
years on shore, let it be what it may, than in a ship ; in this 
choice, if I were a marine, I should most heartily agree. 
The next morning I ascended Green Hill, 2840 feet high, 
and thence walked across the island to the windward point. 
A good cart-road leads from the coast-settlement to the houses, 
gardens, and fields, placed near the summit of the central 
mountain. On the roadside there are milestones, and likewise 
cisterns, where each thirsty passer-by can drink some good 
water. Similar care is displayed in each part of the establish¬ 
ment, and especially in the management of the springs, so that 
a single drop of water may not be lost: indeed the whole island 
