XII 
GAUCHOS AND GUASOS 
275 
Almost every part of the hill had been drilled by attempts 
to open gold-mines : the rage for mining has left scarcely a 
spot in Chile unexamined. I spent the evening as before, 
talking round the fire with my two companions. The Guasos 
of Chile, who correspond to the Gauchos of the Pampas, are, 
however, a very different set of beings. Chile is the more 
civilised of the two countries, and the inhabitants, in con¬ 
sequence, have lost much individual character. Gradations in 
rank are much more strongly marked : the Guaso does not by 
any means consider every man his equal; and I was quite 
surprised to find that my companions did not like to eat at 
the same time with myself. This feeling of inequality is a 
necessary consequence of the existence of an aristocracy of 
wealth. It is said that some few of the greater landowners 
possess from five to ten thousand pounds sterling per annum : 
an inequality of riches which I believe is not met with in any 
of the cattle-breeding countries eastward of the Andes. A 
traveller does not here meet that unbounded hospitality which 
refuses all payment, but yet is so kindly offered that no 
scruples can be raised in accepting it. Almost every house 
in Chile will receive you for the night, but a trifle is expected 
to be given in the morning ; even a rich man will accept two 
or three shillings. The Gaucho, although he may be a cut¬ 
throat, is a gentleman ; the Guaso is in few respects better, 
but at the same time a vulgar, ordinary fellow. The two men, 
although employed much in the same manner, are different 
in their habits and attire ; and the peculiarities of each are 
universal in their respective countries. The Gaucho seems 
part of his horse, and scorns to exert himself excepting when 
on its back ; the Guaso may be hired to work as a labourer 
in the fields. The former lives entirely on animal food ; the 
latter almost wholly on vegetable. We do not here see the 
white boots, the broad drawers, and scarlet chilipa ; the 
picturesque costume of the Pampas. Here, common trousers 
are protected by black and green worsted leggings. The 
poncho, however, is common to both. The chief pride of the 
Guaso lies in his spurs ; which are absurdly large. I measured 
one which was six inches in the diameter of the rowel, and the 
rowel itself contained upwards of thirty points. The stirrups 
are on the same scale, each consisting of a square, carved 
