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CH1L0E 
CHAP. 
a distance the view somewhat resembles that of Tierra del 
Fuego ; but the woods, when seen nearer, are incomparably 
more beautiful. Many kinds of fine evergreen trees, and plants 
with a tropical character, here take the place of the gloomy 
beech of the southern shores. In winter the climate is detest¬ 
able, and in summer it is only a little better. I should think 
there are few parts of the world, within the temperate regions, 
where so much rain falls. The winds are very boisterous, and 
the sky almost always clouded : to have a week of fine weather 
is something wonderful. It is even difficult to get a single 
glimpse of the Cordillera : during our first visit, once only the 
volcano of Osorno stood out in bold relief, and that was before 
sunrise ; it was curious to watch, as the sun rose, the outline 
gradually fading away in the glare of the eastern sky. 
The inhabitants, from their complexion and low stature, 
appear to have three-fourths of Indian blood in their veins. 
They are an humble, quiet, industrious set of men. Although 
the fertile soil, resulting from the decomposition of the volcanic 
rocks, supports a rank vegetation, yet the climate is not 
favourable to any production which requires much sunshine 
to ripen it. There is very little pasture for the larger quadru¬ 
peds ; and in consequence, the staple articles of food are pigs, 
potatoes, and fish. The people all dress in strong woollen 
garments, which each family makes for itself, and dyes with 
indigo of a dark blue colour. The arts, however, are in the 
rudest state ; — as may be seen in their strange fashion of 
ploughing, their method of spinning, grinding corn, and in the 
construction of their boats. The forests are so impenetrable 
that the land is nowhere cultivated except near the coast and 
on the adjoining islets. Even where paths exist, they are 
scarcely passable from the soft and swampy state of the soil. 
The inhabitants, like those of Tierra del Fuego, move about 
chiefly on the beach or in boats. Although with plenty to 
eat, the people are very poor : there is no demand for labour, 
and consequently the lower orders cannot scrape together 
money sufficient to purchase even the smallest luxuries. There 
is also a great deficiency of a circulating medium. I have 
seen a man bringing on his back a bag of charcoal, with which 
to buy some trifle, and another carrying a plank to exchange 
for a bottle of wine. Hence every tradesman must also be 
