XIII 
SUCCESSFUL ASCENT OF A HILL 
301 
continued scrambling up and down over the sharp rocks of 
mica-slate ; and as for the woods, our faces, hands, and shin¬ 
bones all bore witness to the maltreatment we received, in 
merely attempting to penetrate their forbidden recesses. 
December \Zth .—We stood out to sea. On the 20th we 
bade farewell to the south, and with a fair wind turned the 
ship’s head northward. From Cape Tres Montes we sailed 
pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten coast, which is 
remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the thick 
covering of forest even on the almost precipitous flanks. The 
next day a harbour was discovered, which on this dangerous 
coast might be of great service to a distressed vessel. It can 
easily be recognised by a hill 1600 feet high, which is even 
more perfectly conical than the famous sugar-loaf at Rio de 
Janeiro. The next day, after anchoring, I succeeded in 
reaching the summit of this hill. It was a laborious under¬ 
taking, for the sides were so steep that in some parts it was 
necessary to use the trees as ladders. There were also several 
extensive brakes of the Fuchsia, covered with its beautiful 
drooping flowers, but very difficult to crawl through. In these 
wild countries it gives much delight to gain the summit of 
any mountain. There is an indefinite expectation of seeing 
something very strange, which, however often it may be balked, 
never failed with me to recur on each successive attempt. 
Every one must know the feeling of triumph and pride which 
a grand view from a height communicates to the mind. In 
these little frequented countries there is also joined to it some 
vanity, that you perhaps are the first man who ever stood on 
this pinnacle or admired this view. 
A strong desire is always felt to ascertain whether any 
human being has previously visited an unfrequented spot. A 
bit of wood with a nail in it is picked up and studied as if it 
were covered with hieroglyphics. Possessed with this feeling, 
I was much interested by finding, on a wild part of the coast, 
a bed made of grass beneath a ledge of rock. Close by it 
there had been a fire, and the man had used an axe. The fire, 
bed, and situation showed the dexterity of an Indian ; but he 
could scarcely have been an Indian, for the race is in this part 
extinct, owing to the Catholic desire of making at one blow 
Christians and Slaves. I had at the time some misgivings 
