XIV 
CHILOE 
315 
in those of countries long civilised. Shortly after sunset we 
bivouacked for the night. Our female companion, who was 
rather good-looking, belonged to one of the most respectable 
families in Castro : she rode, however, astride, and without 
shoes or stockings. I was surprised at the total want of pride 
shown by her and her brother. They brought food with them, 
but at all our meals sat watching Mr. King and myself whilst 
eating, till we were fairly shamed into feeding the whole party. 
The night was cloudless ; and while lying in our beds, we 
enjoyed the sight (and it is a high enjoyment) of the multi¬ 
tude of stars which illumined the darkness of the forest. 
January 23 rd .—We rose early in the morning, and reached 
the pretty quiet town of Castro by two o'clock. The old 
governor had died since our last visit, and a Chileno was 
acting in his place. We had a letter of introduction to Don 
Pedro, whom we found exceedingly hospitable and kind, and 
more disinterested than is usual on this side of the continent. 
The next day Don Pedro procured us fresh horses, and offered 
to accompany us himself. We proceeded to the south— 
generally following the coast, and passing through several 
hamlets, each with its large barn-like chapel built of wood. 
At Vilipilli, Don Pedro asked the commandant to give us a 
guide to Cucao. The old gentleman offered to come himself; 
but for a long time nothing would persuade him that two 
Englishmen really wished to go to such an out-of-the-way 
place as Cucao. We were thus accompanied by the two 
greatest aristocrats in the country, as was plainly to be seen 
in the manner of all the poorer Indians towards them. At 
Chonchi we struck across the island, following intricate wind¬ 
ing paths, sometimes passing through magnificent forests, and 
sometimes through pretty cleared spots, abounding with corn 
and potato crops. This undulating woody country, partially 
cultivated, reminded me of the wilder parts of England, and 
therefore had to my eye a most fascinating aspect. At 
Vilinco, which is situated on the borders of the lake of Cucao, 
only a few fields were cleared ; and all the inhabitants appeared 
to be Indians. This lake is twelve miles long, and runs in an 
east and west direction. From local circumstances, the sea- 
breeze blows very regularly during the day, and during the 
night it falls calm : this has given rise to strange exaggerations, 
