3iS 
CHILOE 
CHAP. 
the ground by burning. In every direction volumes of smoke 
were curling upwards. Although the inhabitants were so 
assiduous in setting fire to every part of the wood, yet I did not 
see a single fire which they had succeeded in making extensive. 
We dined with our friend the commandant, and did not reach 
Castro till after dark. The next morning we started very early. 
After having ridden for some time, we obtained from the brow 
of a steep hill an extensive view (and it is a rare thing on this 
road) of the great forest. Over the horizon of trees, the volcano 
of Corcovado, and the great flat-topped one to the north, stood 
out in proud pre-eminence : scarcely another peak in the long 
range showed its snowy summit. I hope it will be long before 
I forget this farewell view of the magnificent Cordillera fronting 
Chiloe. At night we bivouacked under a cloudless sky, and the 
next morning reached S. Carlos. We arrived on the right day, 
for before evening heavy rain commenced. 
February yth .—Sailed from Chiloe. During the last week 
I made several short excursions. One was to examine a great 
bed of now-existing shells, elevated 350 feet above the level of 
the sea: from among these shells large forest-trees were 
growing. Another ride was to P. Huechucucuy. I had with 
me a guide who knew the country far too well ; for he would 
pertinaciously tell me endless Indian names for every little 
point, rivulet, and creek. In the same manner as in Tierra del 
Fuego, the Indian language appears singularly well adapted 
for attaching names to the most trivial features of the land. I 
believe every one was glad to say farewell to Chiloe ; yet if we 
could forget the gloom and ceaseless rain of winter, Chiloe 
might pass for a charming island. There is also something 
very attractive in the simplicity and humble politeness of the 
poor inhabitants. 
We steered northward along shore, but owing to thick 
weather did not reach Valdivia till the night of the 8th. The 
next morning the boat proceeded to the town, which is distant 
about ten miles. We followed the course of the river, 
occasionally passing a few hovels, and patches of ground 
cleared out of the otherwise unbroken forest; and sometimes 
meeting a canoe with an Indian family. The town is situated 
on the low banks of the stream, and is so completely buried in 
a wood of apple-trees that the streets are merely paths in an 
