358 
US PALL AT A PASS 
CHAP. 
are round little towers, with steps outside to reach the floor, 
which is raised some feet above the ground on account of the 
snow-drifts. They are eight in number, and under the Spanish 
government were kept during the winter well stored with food 
and charcoal, and each courier had a master-key. Now they 
only answer the purpose of caves, or rather dungeons. Seated 
on some little eminence, they are not, however, ill suited to the 
surrounding scene of desolation. The zigzag ascent of the 
Cumbre, or the partition of the waters, was very steep and 
tedious; its height, according to Mr. Pentland, is 12,454 feet. 
The road did not pass over any perpetual snow, although there 
were patches of it on both hands. The wind on the summit 
was exceedingly cold, but it was impossible not to stop for a 
few minutes to admire, again and again, the colour of the 
heavens, and the brilliant transparency of the atmosphere. 
The scenery was grand: to the westward there was a fine 
chaos of mountains, divided by profound ravines. Some snow 
generally falls before this period of the season, and it has even 
happened that the Cordillera have been finally closed by this 
time. But we were most fortunate. The sky, by night and 
by day, was cloudless, excepting a few round little masses of 
vapour that floated over the highest pinnacles. I have often 
seen these islets in the sky, marking the position of the Cordillera, 
when the far-distant mountains have been hidden beneath the 
horizon. 
April 6th .—In the morning we found some thief had stolen 
one of our mules, and the bell of the madrina. We therefore 
rode only two or three miles down the valley, and stayed there 
the ensuing day in hopes of recovering the mule, which the 
arriero thought had been hidden in some ravine. The scenery 
in this part had assumed a Chilian character : the lower sides 
of the mountains, dotted over with the pale evergreen Quillay 
tree, and with the great chandelier-like cactus, are certainly 
more to be admired than the bare eastern valleys ; but I 
cannot quite agree with the admiration expressed by some 
travellers. The extreme pleasure, I suspect, is chiefly owing 
to the prospect of a good fire and of a good supper, after 
escaping from the cold regions above : and I am sure I most 
heartily participated in these feelings. 
Sth .-—-We left the valley of the Aconcagua, by which we 
