CHAP. XVI 
COAST-ROAD TO COQUIMBO 
361 
four horses and two mules, the latter carrying the luggage on 
alternate days. The six animals together only cost the value 
of twenty-five pounds sterling, and at Copiapo I sold them 
again for twenty-three. We travelled in the same independent 
manner as before, cooking our own meals, and sleeping in the 
open air. As we rode towards the Vino del Mar, I took a 
farewell view of Valparaiso, and admired its picturesque appear¬ 
ance. For geological purposes I made a detour from the high 
road to the foot of the Bell of Quillota. We passed through 
an alluvial district rich in gold, to the neighbourhood of 
Limache, where we slept. Washing for gold supports the 
inhabitants of numerous hovels, scattered along the sides of 
each little rivulet ; but, like all those whose gains are uncertain, 
they are unthrifty in their habits, and consequently poor. 
2 8 th .—In the afternoon we arrived at a cottage at the 
foot of the Bell mountain. The inhabitants were freeholders, 
which is not very usual in Chile. They supported themselves 
on the produce of a garden and a little field, but were very 
poor. Capital is here so deficient that the people are obliged 
to sell their green corn while standing in the field, in order to 
buy necessaries for the ensuing year. Wheat in consequence 
was dearer in the very district of its production than at 
Valparaiso, where the contractors live. The next day we 
joined the main road to Coquimbo. At night there was a 
very light shower of rain : this was the first drop that had 
fallen since the heavy rain of September 1 ith and 1 2th, which 
detained me a prisoner at the Baths of Cauquenes. The 
interval was seven and a half months ; but the rain this year 
in Chile was rather later than usual. The distant Andes were 
now covered by a thick mass of snow ; and were a glorious 
sight. 
May 2nd .—The road continued to follow the coast at no 
great distance from the sea. The few trees and bushes which 
are common in central Chile decreased rapidly in numbers, 
and were replaced by a tall plant, something like a yucca in 
appearance. The surface of the country, on a small scale, was 
singularly broken and irregular ; abrupt little peaks of rock 
rising out of small plains or basins. The indented coast and 
the bottom of the neighbouring sea, studded with breakers, 
would, if converted into dry land, present similar forms ; and 
