XVI 
337 
IQUIQUE—SALTPETRE WORKS 
it will not serve for gunpowder. Formerly there were two 
exceedingly rich silver-mines in this neighbourhood, but their 
produce is now very small. 
Our arrival in the offing caused some little apprehension. 
Peru was in a state of anarchy; and each party having 
demanded a contribution, the poor town of Iquique was in 
tribulation, thinking the evil hour was come. The people had 
also their domestic troubles ; a short time before three French 
carpenters had broken open, during the same night, the two 
churches, and stolen all the plate : one of the robbers, however, 
subsequently confessed, and the plate was recovered. The 
convicts were sent to Arequipa, which, though the capital of 
this province, is two hundred leagues distant ; the government 
there thought it a pity to punish such useful workmen who 
could make all sorts of furniture ; and accordingly liberated 
them. Things being in this state, the churches were again 
broken open, but this time the plate was not recovered. The 
inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and declaring that none 
but heretics would thus “ eat God Almighty,” proceeded to 
torture some Englishmen, with the intention of afterwards 
shooting them. At last the authorities interfered, and peace 
was established. 
13 th .— In the morning I started for the saltpetre works, a 
distance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended the steep coast- 
mountains by a zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of 
the mines of Guantajaya and St. Rosa. These two small 
villages are placed at the very mouths of the mines ; and being 
perched up on hills, they had a still more unnatural and desolate 
appearance than the town of Iquique. We did not reach the 
saltpetre works till after sunset, having ridden all day across an 
undulating country, a complete and utter desert. The road 
was strewed with the bones and dried skins of the many beasts 
of burden which had perished on it from fatigue. Excepting 
the Vultur aura, which preys on the carcasses, I saw neither 
bird, quadruped, reptile, nor insect. On the coast-mountains, 
at the height of about 2000 feet, where during this season the 
clouds generally hang, a very few cacti were growing in the 
clefts of rock ; and the loose sand was strewed over with a 
lichen, which lies on the surface quite unattached. This plant 
belongs to the genus Cladonia, and somewhat resembles the 
