7ht RURAL NEW-YORKER 
335 
The Home Dressmaker 
A Bloomer Dress. —The lirst picture 
shows at "the left a child's dress of nat¬ 
ural-colored pongee, with bloomers to 
match. It is a simple style, with yoke, 
and the short sleeves, round neck, yoke 
and trimming are edged with silk rick- 
rack braid of the same color as the nat¬ 
ural pongee. Two broad straps trim the 
front of the dress; they come clown to be¬ 
low the waist line, the ends forming lit¬ 
tle pockets, which are trimmed with a 
design in dark blue silk embroidery. 
There is a narrow girdle of dark blue silk. 
This dress is very simple, but there is 
a charming idea in it for making wash 
dresses, ehambray, gingham, cotton pop¬ 
lin or linen, trimming with cotton rick- 
rack and embroidery. The riekrack braid 
comes in a number of different colors, 
and is a popular trimming now. Trim¬ 
ming braids of cotton should always be 
shrunk in the piece, to avoid puckering. 
Natural Pongee and Gray Cliallie 
Gray (’hallie. —The dress at the right 
in this picture was a very fine French 
cliallie in aluminum gray, trimmed with 
dark blue pipings. Grays are very popu¬ 
lar now, silver and aluminum being the 
fashionable shades. This dress has a 
plain gathered skirt, with two fine pipings 
of blue around the hips. The full bloused 
waist is gathered into a shallow circular 
yoke, cut all in one piece, with band 
going down the front of the blouse. The 
raglan sleeves were set in the shallow 
yoke. On each side of the front closing 
of the waist were simulated vertical pock¬ 
ets. trimmed like the front closing with 
small buttons. Sleeves, yoke and pocket 
flaps were piped with dark blue, the pip¬ 
ing being silk over a fine cord. This color 
combination of silver or aluminum with 
dark blue is very popular. 
White Serge. —In the second group 
the figure at the left shows rather an odd 
arrangement of white serge. The loose, 
long-wauted bodice, fastened invisibly, 
was trimmed around neck and sleeves 
with a scattered design of cross-stitch dots 
in blue, pink and green. The skirt, wider 
at the hips than the hem, was made like 
a straight piece just folded around, slant¬ 
ed up a little at the bottom in front, where 
it was apparently lapped over at the side. 
The top of this skirt stood out a little, so 
as to form a pocket at each side of the 
trout, and it was trimmed with a band 
of cross-stitch embroidery about three 
inches deep, a bold, handsome design in 
blue, pink and green. The effect was odd, 
but very decorative. The hat shown is a 
folded silk turban. 
Chambray and Rickrack. —The dress 
shown in the center was lavender cham¬ 
bray, trimmed with white riekrack braid. 
The straight skirt, gathered rather full 
at the sides, had three rows of white rick- 
rack braid around the hips. The plain 
waist had elbow sleeves with two one- 
inch tucks, with a band of riekrack above 
and below. The front of waist formed a 
narrow vestee. with several horizontal 
one-inch tucks, the vestee outlined by a 
four-inch band which" passed around the 
neck like a fichu, buttoning down below 
the waist line. This baud was edged ... 
around with riekrack. and had bound but 
ton holes and large pearl buttons. This is 
a very simple dress, and pracFcal for 
laundering, but extremely pretty. The 
fichu should have a tab with buttonhole 
underneath in the middle of the back, to 
attach to a 1 utton on the back of the 
neckband, like a nurse’s collar; it can 
then be removed for laundering. A ging¬ 
ham dress could be made after this pat¬ 
tern. with a fichu of solid color or white. 
White Pongee. —The third figure, at 
the right, shows a dress of white pongee, 
a very heavy, rather rough weave. It 
looked as though all in one piece, the 
loose girdle disguising the seam where 
skirt and waist came together. The waist 
trimming consisted of line's starting under 
the arms and running toward the front 
horizontally, then turning down at right 
angles to the waist. These trimmings 
were formed by cutting the material and 
turning back underneath, so as to show a 
band of dark blue silk. The turning was 
stitched along on each side, so as to look 
like a tuck. The loose elbow sleeves had 
two bands of trimming put in the same 
way, while the edge had a band of blue on 
the outside and a one-inch facing of 
smooth silver braid on the inside, which 
all 
showed when the sleeve fell back. The 
round neck was finished with a band of 
blue edged with silver. On the skirt a 
one-inch band of blue edged with silver 
extended vertically on each side of the 
front from waist to hem. starting in line 
with the trimming on the waist. The 
method of trimming described is very at¬ 
tractive. and could be adapted to a va¬ 
riety of materials. The facing of the 
open sleeves with some decoration is very 
pretty, and is a little finishing usually 
overlooked, although it adds wonderfully 
to the effect of a gown. The little hat 
shown is a round toque of crepe Geor¬ 
gette. finished at the side with a knot and 
ends which hang down to the shoulder. 
Sewing Room Notes.— A sleeveless 
waist lining does not give an opportunity 
for keeping dress shields in place in a 
waist cut with kimono sleeves. Short 
sleeves of Brussels net will not show 
through, and furnish a foundation to 
which to attach the shields. No dress 
not of washing material should ever be 
worn without shields, for a single occa¬ 
sion when the wearer becomes overheated 
may soil or discolor the waist beyond re¬ 
pair. The very cheapest shields are never 
an economy, as they so quickly harden or 
lose their waterproof quality. The shields 
should be taken out and washed as needed. 
Unwashed dress shields and dresses put 
away without airing result in that odor 
of stale perspiration that is, unfortu¬ 
nately, not uncommon even among women 
who ought to know better. 
Do not forget that the hem of a cloth 
skirt is better if herringboned rather than 
hemmed: the effect is smoother and the 
stitches hardly discernible. The herring- 
boning is small and regular, one side be¬ 
ing on the hem, the other on the skirt. 
!■ ine piping cord, such as one sees in 
dresses of the crinoline period, has made 
its appearance again, joining long-waisted 
bodices to skirts, finishing sleeves and 
necks, etc. 
refer Pan blouses with round collars 
fitting close to the neck are again in 
vogue. Round collars and turnback cuffs 
are often finished with narrow pleatings. 
Gray organdie neckwear is one of the 
newest Spring ideas. There are collar 
and cuff sets, vestees and guimpes, some 
tucked, hemstitched or embroidered in 
white or self color, others embroidered in 
pastel colors and edged with Valenciennes 
lace. This delicate gray is especially ef¬ 
fective on dark cloth dresses. 
A pretty and demure little one-piece 
dress of gray jersey cloth was a slip-on 
style, finished at neck and sleeves with 
gray worsted fringe, the ends of the nar¬ 
row girdle being finished with fringe also. 
Contrasting sashes, tied at one side, ap¬ 
pear on many dark dresses. Among them 
are very showy sashes of figured Japanese 
silk, the shirred ends having ball pend¬ 
ants. 
Millinery. —Spring always brings out 
novelties in hats, and the season’s changes 
seem to come earlier every year. Jade 
green and henna have continued extreme¬ 
ly popular; silver or aluminum gray and 
a soft cafe au lait shade now dispute their 
popularity. The henna tones are very 
pretty in straw,_ cellophane and kandee 
cloth, as well as in silk or velvet, and are 
more generally becoming than jade. Cel¬ 
lophane recalls some of the fancy horse- 
Suggestions in Trimming Novelties 
hair weaves; kandee cloth, which has a 
number of names, suggests a fine lustrous 
.lute canvas with a varnished surface. It 
is folded into smart little toques. There 
are some fuzzy little sports hats made of 
brushed wool in soft pastel plaids that 
are becoming with a plain tailored suit, 
borne very expensive English hats are 
made of a peculiar braid formed of straw 
and cotton woven together. The colors 
are lovely—lavender, purple, beige, blue, 
,iade and pink. In selecting hats many 
elder women think that they must always 
get a small close shape. It is quite true 
that, a girlish picture hat is out of place 
for such wearers, but a dose toque with¬ 
out a brim may be equally trying espe¬ 
cially where the face is rather large. A 
hat with a moderate brim, especially one 
of the mushroom type, is often particu¬ 
larly becoming to an elderly face, espe¬ 
cially where soft feathers form the trim¬ 
ming. 
Old Prices Back Again 
40,000 Baigains 
Don’t wait any longer.— rock bottom every article offered is fresh and new 
prices have been reached in New 
York and we are passing them on to 
you. Look through “Your Bargain 
Book” now; you will be amazed! 
Men’s women’s and children’s cloth- 
ing, furnishings and shoes,—furniture, 
carpets and hangings;—sporting goods 
and toys;—silverware and china ;— 
tools, hardware and auto supplies; 
—farm machinery and harness;—in 
every department splendid bargains 
that mean big savings to you. And 
—and everything is guaranteed. 
The Catalog is Ready 
Copies of the new catalog are now 
on the way to all our regular cus¬ 
tomers. Don’t buy elsewhere until 
you have compared our prices. The 
difference will convince you. If 
you are not a regular customer, send 
lor the book at once. We will gladly 
mail it to you FREE. Send a postal 
today! 
TheCharles William Stores 
1748 Stores Bide.' 
InC. New York City 
m 
rt 
m 
Plenty of Water 
jfor every household need 
A Hoosier System installed in your home 
will provide plenty of water for every house¬ 
hold and farm need. You may use any power 
. . for operating a HoosierSys- 
Item, electric motor, gasoline engine, or wind- 
Imill. Easily installed. Easily operated. 
The convenience afforded by Hoosier Water 
Service warrants your investigation of this 
modern home equipment. 
Write today for Bulletin F which describes 
water supply equipment for farm homes. 
FLINT & WALLING MFG. CO. 
Department Y Kendallville, Indiana 
STAR WINDMILLS HOOSIER PUMPS 
*xi 
Warmth For The 
Entires 
Home 
From one big warm air reg¬ 
ister or from warm air reg¬ 
isters throughout your 
home. Make your plans 
now for this comfort and 
k convenience in your 
home. And save money 
by buying direct from 
the factory. Post your- 
- self and protect your 
pocketbook by get¬ 
ting the Kalamazoo- 
Direct-to-You. 
Cash or Easy Payments Take 
10 Months or I Tear to Pay 
on Furnaces Ran K cs, Com- 
nination Coal and Gas Kanges, 
Kitchen Kabincta, Washing 
Machines, Paints, Hoofing, 
Hugs, Sewing Machines, 
Gleam Separators and scores 
more farm and home necessi¬ 
ties. Just send name Hnd ad¬ 
dress on a postcard und Ask 
for Catalog No. 910 , 
Kalamazoo Stovefo.. Mfr*. 
Kalamazoo, Mich. 
A A R E C O BLEND 
Coffee 
27 
c 
lb. 
(BEAN OR CROUND ) 
This delicious household 
blend supplied to families 
direct from the wholesale 
roaster in 5-lh. lots or more at 
YOU SAVE RETAILER’S PROFIT 
SENT PARCEL POST PREPAID ON RECEIPT OF YOUR 
CHECK. MONEY ORDER OR CASH 
Satim/action Guaranteed or Money Back 
G* L *- t ,ES J c ° , :, FEE CO., 233-239 Washington St. 
Established 80 Years New York City 
“ Dish Toweling ” 
Direct from Mill 
15 yds. of best quality H" checked Cotton Dish 
Toweling sent postpaid for Two Dollars. 
Full Vulue Guaranteed 
Money Back if Dissatisfied 
STERLING TEXTILE MILLS, CLINTON, MASS. 
A Kalamazoo 
R^itcred Direct to You 
When you write advertisers mention 
1 he Rural New-Yorker and you’l! get 
a quick reply and a "square deal.” See 
guarantee editorial page. : : : 
] 
