The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
504 
Cut Flowers for the Roadside Market 
The development of the roadside market during late years has been re¬ 
markable on main roads. Near good-sized towns it is possible to sell great 
quantities of farm produce to travellers. During the past few years there 
has been a great development of this trade in cut flowers, and we have 
had many questions about it. In response to this call the following 
articles have been prepared by_ a gardener who has had long experience. 
The Buyer’s Side. —If one is located 
near large towns or c-ity. or Summer re¬ 
sort, and is on a main travelled highway, 
has some knowledge of floriculture, knows 
something of how to arrange attractive 
bouquets, and is capable and willing to 
learn more about the work, there should 
be no question about the business being 
made a success. Most flower buyers as 
a rule, prefer to purchase their flowers 
from the grower when they can get them, 
and would rather have them cut while 
they wait, as they know they will get 
the best possible service out of them. 
This they are not sure of when the 
flowers are purchased from the city re¬ 
tailer, and besides when buying direct 
from the growers, they always get more 
for their money than they get from their 
dealer. This is an important item that 
is not overlooked by the buyer. 
Requirements. —Anyone starting in 
the business must not expect to do big 
things the first year. You must be the 
right kind of person, favorably located, 
persistent, giving your best thought and 
endeavor to the business, studying the 
wants of customers, always striving to 
please, with never a thought of giving 
anything but full value or more for the 
money. Such a grower must be always 
cheerfully adjusting any complaint or 
(supposed) mistake, making customers 
feel lie wants to give them a square deal. 
In time he will attract a line of customers 
who will stay with him from year to year, 
and not only that, they will also send or 
take their friends. 
Plants from Seed. —Now the question 
of what to grow is of much importance, 
as comparatively few of the host of Sum¬ 
mer flowers are suitable for cutting and 
as the beginner cannot expect to grow all 
of the suitable ones the flr*t year or two. 
I will mention only those I have learned 
from years of practical experience to be 
the most profitable. The dates for plant¬ 
ing the seed of each of the varieties enu¬ 
merated. as well as the particular require¬ 
ments in their culture, are stated in the 
discussion of each kind. However, for 
the sake of convenience, general discus¬ 
sions of cultural directions are noted here. 
All the kinds mentioned can. be grown 
from seed, and in order to have the plants 
ready for early planting, a greenhouse or 
hotbed is necessary in which to grow the 
plants until setting-out time, for if the 
seed has to be sown in the open ground 
with some varieties much valuable time 
is lost, as plants grown from outside 
grown seed will not bloom near as early 
ae early hotbed grown plants, which 
means much lower cash returns from the 
shortened crop. 
Seed Sowing. —For all conditions save 
in the open, seeds may be sown in seed 
pans or flats; these flats may be made 
from boxes used for Hacking canned goods, 
etc., and should be three or four inches 
deep, with openings of some sort in the 
bottom to allow the surplus water to 
drain off readily. The larger seeds may 
be sown in rows l 1 /* in. apart, covering 
them to the depth of their greatest dia¬ 
meter. 
Transplanting. —The young seedling 
plants should, as soon as the first or sec¬ 
ond leaves are formed, be transplanted 
into other flats so that they will stand 
some distance apart. With most plants 
two inches apart each way will be about 
right. Transplanting has a tendency to 
make the plants stocky and affords oppor¬ 
tunity for the development of a good 
root system. 
China Aster.— Where they can be 
grown successfully they should be planted 
in considerable quantity, for the aster is 
certainly one of the most satisfactory of 
the annual flowering plants. The great 
variety in its size, color, form, and season 
of blooming makes it a most desirable 
and satisfactory plant for supplying cut 
flowers. For July and August bloom, 
seeds should be sown in the hotbed in 
March or early April When the plants 
have two dr three true leaves, prick them 
off into flats, setting the plants two inches 
apart each way. After all danger of 
frost is past, transplant the plants to 
their permanent place in the garden, 
where they should stand 12 to 18 in. 
apart each way, according to the variety. 
To grow asters the ground should be 
rich and light in texture. Avoid the use 
of all fresh and highly stimulating man¬ 
ures and fertilizers. Only old composted 
manure is safe for these plants. Small 
quantities of air-slaked lime or wood 
ashes stirred into the surface of the aster 
bed are usually beneficial to the plants. 
Antirrhinum (Snapdragon) .—These 
are best treated as annuals, the bright 
color and peculiar form of the flowers al¬ 
ways attract attention. The spikes are 
most useful for cutting, and keep fresh a 
long time. For early flowers the seed 
should be sown under glass in early 
March, and transplanted into flats of 
moderately rich soil, when an inch or two 
high. Move to the garden when danger 
of freezing is past. They may be planted 
in rows, or in beds, the plants to stand 
about 12 inches apart. 
Marigolds. —These of late years have 
become very popular as cut flowers. Some 
people object to the strong odor of the 
leaves and flowers, but nevertheless, the 
strongest objectors often buy them for 
porch decoration, as there is scarcely any 
other flower better adapted to that pur¬ 
pose. They are easily grown, and if 
started early in the greenhouse, hotbed 
or living room, and planted out the middle 
of May in rows, to stand one foot apart, 
they will bloom profusely from mid¬ 
summer until frost. They may be sown 
in the open ground after danger of frost 
is passed, but will be much later coming 
into bloom. 
Cosmos. —The Cosmos is indispensable 
for cutting, and always finds a ready sale. 
Plant only the early flowering variety. If 
(hose are sown in the hot-bed or living 
room about the last week of March they 
will make fine plants by middle of May. 
and will commence blooming in July. 
Cutting may commence in August and 
continue until late Fall. They succeed 
best if planted in double or triple rows 
about 16 in. apart and the same distance 
apart in the row. I>y planting them thus 
the plants support each other, and are not 
so apt to be blown over by the heavy 
wind. 
Zinnia. —Zinnias are the most profit¬ 
able of all the annuals I have ever grown 
for cutting, no other species of flowering 
plants give such a wide range of color and 
shades, and but few can equal them as 
cut flowers, as they make up beautifully, 
and are splendid keepers. For early 
blooming, seeds should be sown under 
glass about the first week in March and 
the plants handled in the usual manner, 
having them ready to set out by the mid¬ 
dle of May. Cutting can begin in July 
and continue through the remainder of 
the season. They should be planted in 
four-row beds, with the rows 16 in. apart 
and the plants the same distance apart in 
the row. The Zinnia when given plenty 
of room grows naturally into a low wide- 
spreading bushy plant, but when planted 
close together, the crowding induces a 
tall, slender growth, and long-stemmed 
flowers. The best colors and varieties to 
grow are as follows: Salmon Rose (semi¬ 
dwarf) ; Robusta, crimson, yellow, pur¬ 
ple, scarlet, violet and white; also the 
following new varieties are very fine, and 
a decided improvement over some of the 
older sorts: Buttercup. Golden Pheasant 
and Victory. 
Corn Flower (Centaurea Cyanus) 
—The double blue variety is the prettiest 
and most desirable. These bright-flow¬ 
ered plants are of a hardy nature, and 
are very easily grown. The cut blooms 
are always i:i demand at remunerative 
prices. Seeds should be sown broadcast 
in a bed outdoors in April, and the young 
plants thinned to stand four to six in. 
apart. They thrive well on all moder¬ 
ately rich garden soils. 
Sweet Peas. —The sweet pea is a fa¬ 
vorite with every flower lover, and no 
garden, commercial or private, is com¬ 
plete without them. It repays well the 
space and attention-given it. The flow¬ 
ers are well suited for bouquets and lend 
themselves admirably to table and other 
decorations The most satisfactory 
method of growing it is in long, single or 
double rows, provided with support, such 
as brush or poultry netting wire, sup¬ 
ported by strong anchor posts and inter¬ 
mediate stakes to keep the wire from sag¬ 
ging. Sweet peas require a deeply-tilled 
soil well supplied with plant food. Old 
well-rotted stable manure is most suit¬ 
able for their requirements. This can 
either be placed in the bottom <>f a trench 
- ix or eight inches below the surface, or 
a liberal application spread broadcast 
where the peas are to be planted, and 
forked in to a depth of 10 or 12 in., mix¬ 
ing it well with the soil. The seeds 
should be planted in the drill about three 
in. deep, and the seeds about one inch 
apart. If the soil is of a light or sandy 
loamy nature, it is well to tread the 
earth firmly over the seed with the feet. 
The firmed soil will prevent drying out 
of the root system, and thus blight may 
possibly be prevented. 
Other Annuals.— Varieties for cutting 
include the following sorts, which may 
ultimately be added to the list grown, 
with more or less profit: Calliopsis, Gom- 
phrena, Calendula, sweet sultan, Celosia 
plumosa and Childsi, candytuft, Gypso- 
phila elegans. ten weeks’ stocks, larkspur, 
Chinese and Japanese double pinks, Gail- 
lardia. miniature-flowered sunflower 
(Stella), nasturtiums, Scabiosa and fe- 
vorfew. The last named is hardy south 
of Philadelphia. North of that latitude it 
is best to treat it as an annual. 
IIardy Perennials. —For early cut 
flowers the hardy perennials are indis¬ 
pensable. and most of the continuous- 
blooming sorts come in very well for use 
practically the whole season. Perennial 
plants usually bloom from seed the second 
year from sowing, though some kinds 
flower the first year if sown early. Seeds 
of all kinds may be sown in a bed without 
April 9, 192x 
glass protection in May, .Tunc or July, 
and transplant the seedlin s to their per¬ 
manent location when large enough. How¬ 
ever for cut flower purposes, I prefer to 
sow most kinds under glass in March, and 
handle the young plants in the same 
manner as the annuals; nlanting them 
out as soon as they are ready, in April 
or May; they have the whole season to 
grow into large sturdy plants, and will 
bloom most abundantly the following 
year. Such varieties as Delphinium Bella¬ 
donna and Bellamosum, Gaillardias, Shas¬ 
ta daisy and hardy pinks bloom the first 
year from seed if started early, and will 
produce enough good cutting material to 
more than pay the initial expense of rais- 
ing. the plants. The following list arc' 
easily raised from seed, and are among 
the best for cut flower purposes. 
Aquilegia (Columbine). —These are 
among the most beautiful hardy peren¬ 
nials producing graceful spurred flowers 
on stems; two feet or more high, above the 
beautiful dark green, divided foliage The 
long spurred hybrids are the choicest of 
this species of flowers. The blooms are 
very large and of beautiful and distinct 
shades: yellow, cream, red. pink, blue, 
lavender, mauve, etc. All are splendid 
cutting material and present a most at¬ 
tractive and graceful appearance, and 
are suitable for practically all kinds of 
decoration. Blooms second year from 
seed; June and July. 
Coreopsis Lanceolata Graxoiflora.. 
—One of the most popular hardy plants. 
The flowers are of a rich golden yellow, 
of graceful form, and invaluable for cut¬ 
ting. They begin blooming in June, and 
if the flowers are kept cut off. thov will 
blooms profusely throughout the Summer. 
Blooms second year from sowing. 
Delphinium (Hardy Larkspur).— 
OJd established plants begin to bloom June 
15 to 20. and by keeping the bloom stalks 
close'y cut, they will continue to throw 
up bloom spikes throughout the season. 
Belladonna, Bellamosum, and some hybrids 
are noted for their continuous blooming 
habit, and are the most desirable for cuf¬ 
fing _on this account. All the hardy Del¬ 
phiniums will bloom more or less the first 
year from Spring-sown seed, but do not 
come into flower much before August, or 
September. 
Gaillardia Grandiflora. —This is 
one of the showiest and most desirable 
hardy plants for cutting. They grow 
about two feet high, and will succeed in 
almost any kind of soil in a sunny posi¬ 
tion. They begin flowering in June, and 
if kept cut clean they will continue to 
bloom profusely the entire season. The 
flowers are large and the coloring is gor¬ 
geous. The center is dark red brown, 
while the petals are marked with rings of 
orange, Vermillion, or brilliant crimson, 
and (piite often a combination of all these 
colors in the same flower. Will bloom 
sparingly first, year, if sown early. 
Gypsopiiila (Baby’s Breath). —This 
will thrive in almost any kind of soil if 
give a sunny situation. Panieulata is the 
best of the species, blooms in July and 
August, and attains a height of two to 
three feet and nearly as much in dia¬ 
meter; therefore it must be given plenty 
of room for development. Its minute 
pure white flowers form a beautiful gauze- 
like appearance. Exquisite alone or in 
combination with other flowers, particu¬ 
larly sweet peas, cornflowers, etc. Blooms 
second year from seed. 
(To Be Continued) 
A Dust for Plant Lice 
A circular from the Department of 
Agriculture describes the successful use 
of a dust form of nicotine sulphate for 
fighting plant lice. Powdered tobacco 
dust has been used for this purpose, but 
the nicotine sulphate seems to give better 
results, and promises to enlarge the use¬ 
fulness of dusting. Of course, when we 
use ground tobacco it is not possible to 
regulate the strength exactly, but this 
can be done with the sulphate. The dust 
is made by mixing finely ground unslaked 
lime with kaolin. The mixture is made 
by putting the lime and kaolin into a 
sifting box which can be shaken up or 
turned over. The nicotine sulphate is 
dissolved in water and a fine spray of this 
solution driven upon the dry powders as 
they are mixed and sifted. If need be 
the product can be dried and reground 
and thus becomes a dust mixture holding 
the chemical on every particle. The dust 
is blown out in the usual way by large 
or small “dusters” worked by small en¬ 
gines or by hand. The action of this dust 
upon plant lice is the same as that of 
“Black-leaf 40” in liquid sprays. It de¬ 
stroys plant lice surely and quickly. The 
pictures show how it may be applied in 
large or small operations. Naturally this 
dust alone will have but little value 
against, eating insects, like the codling 
worm, but various combinations may be 
made with it. For fighting the worms dry 
arsenate of lead may be mixed with the 
dust, or sulphur may be added if ne-d be. 
We think this will add to the usefulness 
of “dusting,” for the usual dust mixtures 
have not been highly successful against 
plant lice. 
Power-operated Pan Duster U.'cd with Suer-ess in a Badly Infested Melon Field. 
Fig. 226 
Hand-operated Fan Duster Vied Against the Pea Aphis. Fig. 227 
