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Growing Carnations 
Part II 
Getting Indoors. —The time of plant¬ 
ing varies from July 15 to September 1. 
Some growers plant later, but it. is not 
well to do it with our present-day varie¬ 
ties of carnations. August 1 planting 
will give excellent, results almost any¬ 
where. Here again water is an essential 
element to success. Too much will pos¬ 
sibly cause more injury than too little. 
The successful rose grower will make a 
depression around each plant and fill that 
with water as soon as planted, and just 
keep filling that depression each time it 
dries out slightly. This can easily he 
done where plants are set 14 ins. each 
way or 14x1(5 ins. Carnations are gen¬ 
erally planted 8x8 ins., unless the plants 
are very large, and even with this 
close planting some growers water as 
above outlined. Our soil is of such 
texture that water drains through 
it very rapidly, and when planting we 
give a thorough watering, then watch 
carefully for first signs of drying out be¬ 
fore applying more water. Some growers 
syringe the plants every few hours to keep 
them from wilting. We abandoned that 
method some years ago. finding there was 
danger of applying too much water, and 
keeping the soil too wet, which was a se¬ 
rious detriment to quick root action. Sev¬ 
eral weeks after planting there will be a 
finely developed crop of weeds edging in ; 
no use arguing about where they got their 
invitation, as they are with us always ; like 
politics and a few more necessary evils. 
Scratch the surface up possibly an inch 
deep every two weeks. 
General Rules., — After a strong, 
healthy grow is evident, light applica¬ 
tions of bonemeal can be worked into the 
soil. Later in the season—when the days 
begin to lengthen—a good, complete fer¬ 
tilizer should be used ; 25 lbs. to a bed 
100 ft. long by 4 ft. 0 ins. wide every 
month to six weeks will benefit stems and 
flowers. Water regularly, but keep the 
foliage dry during the short Winter days. 
Water once weekly or oftener if the soil 
dries out rapidly. Water thoroughly, so 
tlml each application soaks all the soil 
to the bottom of the bed. 
Insect Rests. —Red spider and green 
aphis are the two most troublesome in¬ 
sect pests. Water spraying upwards from 
the bottom of the plant is the only relia¬ 
ble check for spider. The pressure should 
be about 30 to 40 lbs., and a nozzle should 
be used that will direct the stream in any 
desired direction, with all the force con¬ 
centrated in a flat broad Ian-shaped 
stream. Red spiders are very small, and 
their presence is often overlooked until 
the plants assume an unhealthy gray 
color. Watch the plants carefully for 
this gray cast—unless you spray regularly 
once a week as some growers do. We do 
not do this, as we prefer to watch for 
indications of spider and then clean them 
off at once with several hard, thorough 
s.vringings. Water on the foliage during 
midwinter does not tend to increase the 
health of plants. Aphis are more easily 
controlled. Some growers burn tobacco 
steins, others vaporize Nico-Fume liquid 
with small lamps, and still others paint 
it on the heating pipes—where steam is 
used for heating. We prefer Nico-Fume 
paper, which is burned. It is easy to use 
and not injurious, though pretty expen¬ 
sive. a#t we do not find it effective unless 
twice the quantity is burned that the di¬ 
rections recommend. We find in using 
th(* amount called for on the can we are 
simply wasting money, as we can get no 
results. This material does not discolor 
the flowers, nor does it leave an odor on 
them, as tobacco stems will do. 
Temperature. —This is an important 
factor; 48 to 50 degrees is the average 
night temperature, while 52 degrees is the 
highest allowed for good results. The 
temperature on cloudy days should be car¬ 
ried at 54 to 56 degrees and on clear days 
xt should be run at 65 degrees. Some 
varieties will even stand 54 degrees at 
night, though for good, strong stems and 
solid flowers that will stand shipping it 
is safer to keep the temperature 50 de¬ 
grees at night. Support the plants as 
soon as possible after planting. The uni¬ 
versal practice is to run a No. 16 wire 
lengthwise on the beds between each row, 
the first set of wire about 4 ins. from the 
soil, and three more sets above this one 
at intervals of 6 ins. each. Two-ply jute 
twine or heavy raffia is tied across these 
wires between each row. We place two 
cross strings between each row of plants, 
rather close to the plants, thus keeping 
them upright. This is essential, as a 
plant supported in such manner that it 
can settle to the ground as it increases in 
weight will make crooked stems and event¬ 
ually become diseased. 
Diseases. —A carnation plant that is 
diseased is a difficult subject for treat¬ 
ment. The easiest cure is to withhold 
the causes that will produce disease, just 
as you would keep from eating mince pie 
and pudding or sausage if you were sure 
they caused you indigestion. No, you 
would not do that, I know, but would go 
to the M. D. and buy a pill or two after 
you have had the fun of indulgence. You 
may get temporary relief, but each in¬ 
dulgence leaves the constitution weaker, 
and so it is with the carnation, only the 
remedy in the form of sprays, etc., has 
less effect than the pill wall have on your 
system. All buds should be removed from 
the stems as soon as they are large enough 
to pinch out, except the terminal bud. 
This will help strengthen the stem, in¬ 
crease the size of the flower and will help 
mature the flower a few days earlier. 
Cutting the Flowers.— The flowers 
give the best satisfaction to the ultimate 
purchaser if they are cut when just de¬ 
veloped. Some growers will leave them 
hang on the plants several days after this 
period, their excuse being that they like 
to see large flowers. These fully devel¬ 
oped flowers will not ship as well, nor 
keep as long as they should. This is one 
of the causes of complaint against the 
carnation. 
Varieties. —-The list of varieties for 
the commercial grower is not a large one 
today, especially in regards to the me¬ 
dium or dark pink class. Mrs. Ward is 
about the only variety, and each year it 
appears to be more difficult to bring into 
bloom freely. The variety now appears to 
be deteriorating. Matchless is the most 
common white, though quite inferior to 
White Benora. The latter is a shy cut¬ 
ting producer, and will never be planted 
in as large quantities as Matchless. En¬ 
chantress Supreme is the present leader 
in the light pink class, and Aviator in 
scarlet. Laddie is the aristocrat of them 
all, and is in a class alone. It brings the 
highest market price, but makes very few 
cuttings and is not a free bloomer. Some 
of the new introductions give promise of 
possessing desirable tiaits. Ruth Baur, 
medium light pink, will be grown exten¬ 
sively during the next few seasons. There 
are too many white and light pink grown 
now, but this one is a little different, and 
possesses wonderful vigor of growth and 
gives promise of a free bloomer. Red 
Head is a new red of great promise. 
Lassie is a very free-blooming shade of 
cerise—just a little deeper than Mrs. 
Ward—and will replace the latter with 
many florists. 
ELMER J. WEAVER. 
Ma»onvli 
T7 
0 «°c 
Stamp of Approval on 
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