7fm RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
079 
Farm Mechanics 
Concrete Filling in Walls 
I have bought a 2%-aere place, and on 
it is frame house, two-story, unfinished 
inside. It is substantially built and cov¬ 
ered with regular weatherboards or sid¬ 
ing which overlap. I wish . make this 
house warm and am thinking of filling in 
the outside walls with cinder concrete, 
and put wall boards over the filling after 
that gets hard. I have been told that 
sawdust instead of the cinders would 
make a better job, besides being easier to 
handle and lighter in the building. Will 
you let me know whether this plan is 
feasible and advisable? Do you think 
filling with either cinder or sawdust con¬ 
crete would cause moisture such as in a 
cement house? Can you advise any other 
method for making the house warm and 
tight? The house was built nine years 
ago. A. s. 
Central Valley, N. Y. 
I have no record of any attempt to use 
sawdust in the way mentioned, but it 
would be my opinion that it would not 
he the best thing to do. Concrete forms 
no bond with wood, and it would seem 
that the concrete obtained through the 
use of sawdust in this way would be very 
weak and porous, and permit dampness 
to pass through it readily. 
If the concrete is used as wall filling 
and the outside covering is not excep¬ 
tionally tight, due to the long time it has 
been standing unfinished. I would suggest 
the use of a good grade of building paper 
between the studding and next to the out¬ 
side boarding before the concrete is 
placed. This would help to shut out 
dampness. If wall board is used for the 
inside finish, the wall should be furred 
out, leaving an air space behind it instead 
of permitting it to come directly into con 
tact with the concrete. The directions 
accompanying the wall board will explain 
this matter. Applying in this way pre¬ 
vents contact with the outer wall with 
its dampness, and at the same time gives 
an opportunity to secure a very smooth 
finished surface, even though the wall to 
which the wall board is applied is more 
or less uneven. R. n. S. 
Pump for Home Water Supply 
I have read many of your articles on 
installing water supplies, but. am still 
undecided just which is best in this par¬ 
ticular case. We have a good well, I 
cannot say just how deep, but fairly deep, 
and always full, connected with the house 
about 200 ft. distant on a slight incline. 
There is a pump in kitchen sink; the 
water continually flows from the spout, 
which is a waste as well as great nuis¬ 
ance. At the present time we have dis¬ 
carded pump and have a faucet connected 
under or below the sink, setting our 
pails, kettles, etc., on floor to fill, which 
is another great nuisance: but with 
faucet in the sink water will not run 
freely, uphill, I suppose. I am putting 
in new pipes this Spring. Is there a 
pump we can install in kitchen sink that 
can be shut off in any way to stop the 
flow of water, also to pump water by 
hand into a small tank for bathroom? 
Is there any way to bring water to sink 
by faucet ? ' T. H. s. 
Rye. N. Y. 
The discharge from your pump is 
caused, as you suggest, by a siphoning 
action in the supply pipe. The spout of 
the pump is just a little lower than the 
water level in the well, and as both valves 
in the pump open toward the spout this 
difference in level is sufficient to open 
them and cause a small amount of water 
to flow. While the difference in water ■ 
level is sufficient to do this, it evidently 
is not great enough to give a flow from I 
a faucet placed above the sink great I 
enough for practical use. If a new hand- 
operated pump is to be installed with the 
new piping, a kitchen force pump can be 
bought. This has two connections con¬ 
trolled by a valve so that water can be 
eiflier pumped from the spout or through 
a pipe to an overhead tank, as is desired. 
By keeping the valve in the pipe closed 
the dripping would be done away with. 
As this pump would always stand full 
of water, care must be. taken to see that 
it is protected from freezing. 
For the simplest and cheapest installa¬ 
tion possible, a barrel may be used for 
the overhead tank an overflow leading 
from it back to the sink or caused to 
discharge out of doors through the wall. 
This may be piped to the bathroom and 
to the hot water tank in the kitchen. 
When a more elaborate system of plumb¬ 
ing is to be installed, the piping and all 
the fixtures can be used, making no waste 
necessary in the change, i Diversity of 
Montana, at Bozeman, Mont., in Circular 
•if). “The Domestic Water Supply on the 
Farm.” describes fully a number of these 
simple systems to meet various conditions. 
A copy of this circular can be obtained 
by writing for it, and should be of con¬ 
siderable help to you in your problem. 
After getting the running water, sewage 
disposal will be the next stem and Prof. 
Riley’s bulletin. “Sewaee Disposal for 
Country Homes,” obtainable from Cornell 
University, will be of service here. 
R. tt. s. 
Delco-Light 
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upkeep cost than kerosene lamps. 
All these advantages are now 
possible for your own farm 
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