Tbt RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
711 k 
Farm Water Problems 
Vibration of Pump-house Connection 
I have an artesian well 128 ft deep, 
with a deep-well pump, and am using a 
2-h.p. engine for pumping. Pump runs 
40 per minute: have pump .and pump 
jack securely bolted to cement block, 12 
in. thick. 6x12, but when I am using 
pump jack there is some vibration some¬ 
where that shakes the pipe and riles the 
water. When pumping by band this does 
not occur. What is the trouble?. Have 
about 84 ft. of l^-in. pipe in well; have 
cylinder about 68 ft. down, and air cham¬ 
ber about 4 ft. from pump; pump well 
braced. I am going to put water through 
my house from aforesaid pump. Where 
is the best place to connect pipe from well 
to tank, below or above the air chamber? 
I had my pump taken up last Summer, 
and had a plumber to do the job, and he 
put a tee below air chamber for connec¬ 
tion. I told him at the time that he was 
making a mistake? I)o you think that 1 
was right? W. H. 
Midland Park, N. J. 
It seems probable to me that this is 
due to side thrust of the jack. Very 
likely you have the jack bolted to the 
pump base and connected to the working 
part of the pump by wooden connecting 
rods straddling the pump. On the up 
plan to install a bathroom. What should 
be the dimensions of the concrete tank at 
the spring? What thickness of concrete 
in tank? Is some preventive against 
freezing in the tank needed? At what 
depth should the pipe be laid? What 
size of pipe? I intend to install some 
electric-lighting system. Can I do my 
pumping with the same system? Must 
I have a tank at the house? How deep 
should I lay tile for sewage disposal? 
Ought the tiles to be cemented at the 
joining? S. M. A. 
Hartford, Conn. 
With six people iu the house you should 
figure on a capacity of about 180 gallons 
daily in your water system. This could 
be furnished by a small pump, having a 
214-in. cylinder and a 6-in. stroke. Such 
a pump, if run at 40 strokes per minute, 
would furnish about five gallons of water 
per minute, and would need to he driven 
from 20 to 40 minutes daily to furnish 
sufficient water for the day’s needs. The 
above is given on the assumption that 
water is to be used at the house only, 
and' not for watering cattle or lawn 
sprinkling. If to be used for these pur¬ 
poses, the outfit described would, of 
course, have to be operated much longer 
to secure the required amount of water. 
As to the size of the storage tank at 
the spring, this depends very much upon 
the nature of the spring itself. If it flows 
freely enough to equal or exceed the rate 
at which it will be pumped, all that is 
necessary is a small catchbasin. covered 
and with well-screened openings to pre¬ 
vent the entrance of insects, mice, etc. 
If puddled clay is tamped about this and 
the soil surface graded up somewhat, the 
surface water will be excluded and a 
wholesome water supply assured. 
If the spring does not flow sufficiently 
fast to supply the pump a storage tank 
will be required below the spring, con¬ 
nected by tile or ether piping to the catch- 
basin of the spring. This should be pro¬ 
tected in the mine manner as described 
for the catchbasin, and may be covered to 
insure a cool water supply. A tank 
3x3x3 ft. will hold about 200 gallons if 
full, and if the spring has sufficient 
“head” to raise to that height at all sea¬ 
sons a catchbasin may be built sufficently 
large without the use of a storage tank. 
A hydro-pneumatic tank will be re¬ 
quired in the basement of the house or a 
gravity tank in the attic, the hydro-pneu¬ 
matic tank being preferable for this case. 
While it might be possible to use the 
electric outfit that you speak of in warm 
weather, unless the buildings were kept 
above the freezing point during cold 
weather there would be trouble due to 
the small amount of water stored in the 
pressure tank. Probably your best ar¬ 
rangement would be a small engine, air¬ 
cooled or hopper-cooled, operating a pump 
at the spring. The pump should be so 
arranged that it could be easily and com¬ 
pletely drained when pumping ceased, 
and should discharge into a pressure tank 
in the basement of the house. With the 
small pump mentioned, a 1-in. pipe could 
be used for discharge. The catchbasin 
and storage tank can be made with 6-in. 
walls, using a mixture of one part ce¬ 
ment, two parts clean, well-graded sand, 
and four parts stone, spading it well and 
working it well down into the forms to 
get a compact waterproof wall. 
In regard to the tile for sewage dis¬ 
posal, if you mean the ones taking the 
sewage from the septic tank for final dis¬ 
posal, they should be laid very shallow, 
as the helpful bacteria live in the top 
soil; about 10 to 12 in. is the usual 
depth. These tile should be laid with 
uncemented joints; iu fact the joints 
should be left slightly open, as the pur¬ 
pose is to permit the sewage to escape 
into the disposal bed. The tiles are usu¬ 
ally laid with a little greater slope at the 
start than at the lower end, and care 
should be exercised not to give them too 
much slope, for in this case the sewage 
would all rush to the lower end of the 
line. _ r. h. s. 
“Did you really call this gentleman an 
old fool last night?” asked the judge. 
The prisoner tried hard to collect his 
thoughts. “Well, the more 1 look at him. 
the more likely it seems that l did,” he 
replied.—Everybody’s Magazine. 
Arrangement of Pump to Aconl I ibrution 
stroke, the one that lifts the water, these 
do not lift directly straight up, but tend 
to crowd the pump to one side, and this 
crowding at regular intervals tends to set 
up a whipping motion in the pipe below. 
If this is the difficulty, the remedy would 
bo to brace the pump securely above the 
well curb, and, if possible, arrange sup¬ 
ports about the pipe to steady it in the 
casing beneath the curbing. Another pos¬ 
sibility of vibration is a pump rod of in¬ 
correct length, or too long a stroke of the 
jack, permitting the plunger to bump at 
one end of the cylinder. 
In regard to the position of the house 
connection, this should, of course, be suf¬ 
ficiently below ground to escape freezing. 
The air chamber will work properly if 
above it, the necessary condition being a 
free passage from the line to the air 
chamber. The purpose of the air cham¬ 
ber is to absorb shocks and steady the 
flow of water from the pump by the cush¬ 
ioning effect of the imprisoned air, and 
this it can do so long as the water has 
free passage to it. 
I am wondering if you, have not mis¬ 
taken the so-called differential cylinder 
for the air chamber. This is located be¬ 
neath the curb, and is of such size that 
approximately one-half of the water from 
the up stroke passes into it to be forced 
out at the next down stroke, thereby 
tending to equalize the flow. The air 
chamber is usually above the curb, and In¬ 
frequently a part of the pump frame o> 
standard. If you wish to force water 
either to the house or draw it from the 
pump spout at your pleasure, your pump 
should bo fitted with a three-way cock. 
This will permit pumping water from the 
spout, pumping water to the storage tank, 
while a uiid-position of the control handle 
permits water from the storage tank to 
flow from the pump spout while the pump 
is standing idle. r. h. s. 
Planning Water Supply for Dwelling 
1 am about to provide a water supply 
for my home in the country, and should 
appreciate the advice and suggestions of 
your experts. My proposition is this: 
Spring is about 35 rods from house; 
house is 85 ft. higher than spring. Six 
persons occupy the house, in which I 
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