Tht RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
863 
Summer Clothes. —Washing dresses 
h*ad in the shop windows, with dotted 
swiss, gingham and the familiar voile at 
the head in cottons. The foreign fashion 
notes all tell us that skirts are to be 
longer, but there is no symptom of that 
as yet in New York. Readymade dresses 
in voile at .$7.50 to $12.50 include many 
very pretty styles, and s-ome of the darker 
colors. Ginghams, in fine finalities, are 
usually higher, ranging from about $12.50 
or $15 up to $25. White organdie is 
very freely used in combination with all 
the other cottons, and it is safe to say 
that the majority of dotted swiss dresses 
have organdie forming some part of the 
trimming. 
Plain and Check Voile.— In the first 
picture the child at the left shows a com¬ 
bination of white voile with white and 
coral check. The underskirt was white, 
with a tunic deeply bordered with the 
checked material which was white voile 
with a cord of bright coral pink forming 
the check. The deep yoke and sleeves 
were cut kimono style, the lower part of 
the waist being the 
check. The trimmings 
consisted of knife 
pleatings, finishing 
turnback cuffs and 
square- neck of coral 
pink taffeta. The gir¬ 
dle. tied in a bow in 
the back, was white 
voile with a coral taf¬ 
feta poppy ornament¬ 
ing it in front. The 
dress closed in the back 
and could be easily 
laundered. Of course 
the taffeta pleatings 
would be taken off 
when it was washed. 
It suggests an at¬ 
tractive combination, 
without any difficulty 
in adapting a pattern. 
The same style is 
pretty with a rather 
bright shade of blue. 
Dotted Swiss. —At 
the right is a simple 
frock of blue swiss 
with black dots. The trimming is white 
organdie. The broad band was let in the 
skirt with hemstitching, and had a con¬ 
ventional figure in old rose embroidery at 
intervals. Round collar and turn-back 
cuff's were of white organdie with rose 
embroidery, the sash being of the organ¬ 
die also. The dress closed at the back. 
This is another very simple style, but 
the method of trimming made it ex¬ 
ceptionally pretty. 
Dotted Swiss in Chemise Style.— 
In the second group, the figure at the 
left shows a pale blue dotted swiss made 
in the very simple chemise style. It is 
a plain one-piece robe with short sleeves, 
trimmed with narrow black satin ribbon 
at neck and edge of sleeves, and 1 with a 
ribbon girdle. There are pockets on the 
skirt, but no other trimming. Such a 
dress is very pretty and becoming to a 
slim girlish figure, but not attractive for 
a matronly person. Sometimes such 
dresses are sleeveless and are worn over 
a short-sleeved 
organdie guimpe. 
Taffeta and 
Rirbon. —In the 
center is a dress 
of sand-colored 
taffeta, very pret¬ 
tily t r i m m e d 
with sand-colored 
ribbon having a 
brown edge and 
dot. On the skirt 
the ribbon is ap¬ 
plied like an apron 
while on the 
waist the trim¬ 
ming forms 
panel in 
front and 
the ribbon 
curved into 
rose at the 
der. The 
sleeves 
t r i m m e d 
eight rows of rib¬ 
bon. The nar¬ 
row ribbon girdle, 
tied in front, was 
dark brown and 
gold. This dress 
was a French model, and was very at¬ 
tractive in effect. The broad hat was 
of taupe Georgette, trimmed with velvet 
poppies of brown and taupe. 
Grange Gingham.— At the right is a 
little dress of orange and white gingham, 
trimmed with white organdie. The gath¬ 
ered skirt had at each side a separate 
panel of gingham banded and bound with 
white organdie, the banding being set in 
with hemstitching. These panels did not 
fly loose, being attached down the sides, 
but such panels, which are much used, 
are often left loose. We sometimes see 
four panels instead of two, put on so 
that they separate down the middle of 
front and back and of sides. The or¬ 
gandie band is repeated in the sleeves, 
which were long and full, in this case 
gathered into an organdie cuff, though 
some others are seen with bell sleeves 
like those in the central model, having 
more than one band of organdie. The 
sash, tied in a bow in the back, was of 
organdie. This is a pretty model for a 
light-colored gingham. We see fewer 
dark ginghams made up than last year. 
Sewing-Room Notes. —Cape satin is a 
heavy quality 52 in. wide, woven espe¬ 
cially for the satin wraps now in vogue, 
but also used for gowns. A recent spe¬ 
cial sale offered black cape satin at $3.95 
a yard. 
A new idea is a vestee camisole. This 
consists of a camisole of wash satin or 
net with a vestee attached. The vestee 
is of lace or Georgette, extending down 
below the waist. These are for wear 
with a sports suit and enable the wearer 
to do without a blouse under the coat. 
Pretty styles were noted at $1.95 to 
$3.95. 
While sleeveless and 
gowns are seen in many 
newer still are full-length 
sleeves. One style seen had 
short-sleeved 
new models, 
wide-flowing 
these sleeves 
trimmed with 
ribbon up 
ered skirt 
of ribbon 
bands of narrow 
1 oile and Doited Swiss 
moire 
to the elbow, while the gatli- 
was trimmed with many rows 
put on in the same way. It. 
had a very feminine 
old-fashioned look, 
rather suggestive of 
(lie hoop-skirt period. 
The material of the 
dress was Georgette 
crepe. 
Among white wash 
goods we have seen 
Sr. Gall dotted swiss 
of nice quality at 85 
cents a yard. This is 
only 31 in. wide, so 
the usual dress length 
for a woman is six 
yards. French voile of 
beautiful quality is $1 
a yard; this is 44 in. 
wide, so five yards 
makes a dress length. 
3 Still finer are French 
voiles at $1.25 and 
$1.50 the yard. White 
cotton marquisette is 
about the same in 
price as voile, and is 
very sheer, not quite 
so closely woven as 
lite embroidered voile is $1.50 
a yard, and is very attractive 
of rings or sprigs, all 
dimity, at 45 cents is 
been for some time, 
of heavy white eot- 
whieh are desir- 
voile. W 
and $1.75 
with a pattern 
white. Crossbar 
cheaper than it has 
There ,are a number 
tons with linen finish 
able for separate skirts and children’s 
clothes. Their chief objection is their 
weight in washing, and this makes them 
less desirable for a woman’s entire dress 
than for a skirt alone. 
Among women’s outing clothes we see 
khaki breeches for wear on horseback, 
or under a sports skirt, for $4.50. $5.94 
and $S.94. khaki leggings $2. Khaki 
sports suits, ^consisting of skirt and 
belted coat. $7.74; khaki middy blouses 
trimmed with white braid. $1.88. Divided 
riding skirts of khaki were seen for $0 
and $8.94. Khaki riding habits in Nor¬ 
folk straight and sport models, $11.50. 
The newest Summer riding habits are 
sleeveless, of linen or pongee, to be 
worn over a plain 
shirt. The more 
expensive riding 
shirts are Jap¬ 
anese or llabutai 
silk, the cheaper 
ones, as low as 
$2.35. being lin- 
ene. 
New English 
raincoats of oiled 
silk, so light that 
they can be folded 
in very small com¬ 
pass, are $18.75 
in single texture, 
$32.75 doubl e 
texture. They 
come in a variety 
of bright colors. 
Smocks.to wear 
over separate 
skirts are espe¬ 
cially pretty in 
cotton, crepe and 
soisette. Some 
have white collars 
and cuffs, some 
rather broad col- 
larless neck line, 
and others round 
They are usually 
embroidery. These 
all ages, but are 
in dressing young 
habit of growing 
Dotted Swiss, Taffeta and Gingham 
or V-shaped opening 
trimmed with wool 
smocks are worn by 
especially convenient 
and active girls with a 
out of their clothes. 
“Garden slip-ons” are sleeveless jumper 
frocks of cotton crepe or cretonne to be 
worn over a white blouse. They are in¬ 
tended for the woman who likes to gar¬ 
den for fun. and are sensible enough to 
please women who work in earnest. 
They consist of a straight rather long- 
waisted bodice, cut out deep at the neck, 
and with large armholes and a straight, 
short skirt with pockets. The ready¬ 
made slip-ons at $4.95 are outlined in 
colored yarns at neck and armholes, and 
have a patent leather b<gt. Worn over 
knickerbockers, this is sensible and 
pretty. 
We think knickers or riding breeches 
more comfortable under a skirt than the 
fuller bloomers, and their use is increas¬ 
ing. Women’s overalls seem to be less in 
demand, for many large department stores 
no longer carry them. 
One Country Woman to Another 
When I read the letter from G. A. P. 
on page 760. I had just come from Me¬ 
morial Day exercises in our little rural 
school with its eight pupils. Neither .the 
school house, nor the untidy grounds, nor 
the exercises themselves, were at all in 
accord with what we wish for the chil¬ 
dren—and yet I am not discouraged, be¬ 
cause I know the homes from which the 
children come, and the hearts and pur¬ 
poses underneath often unlovely exte¬ 
riors. I had. I felt, a little message to 
tell in story form that day, but the tired 
teacher, herself a busy housewife, did 
no’t think to offer the opportunity. Rut 
with enthusiasm she asked me to come 
some morning when school is in session, 
and then I am going to invite myself to 
tell it! This will not be easy, because I 
have a family of nine, and I should prefer 
to go in the more leisurely afternoon, but 
I have never done one thing to show 
special interest in the school and the time 
bar! come to make the effort! 
I know so well how you feel. I know 
Miss Florence Ward and Mrs. Ruby 
Greene Smith. Roth are fine women and 
brilliant executives and I have been asso¬ 
ciated with both of them in professional 
capacity, but I so much prefer grubbing 
along “14 hours a day,” only I don’t. 
We plan on our isolated farm eight miles 
from a railroad, four from a yeast cake, 
and no other house in sight, because here 
in the open country I can lead a fuller 
life than in the city (which I have tried), 
with its standardized pleasures and invi¬ 
tations to an easier life. I believe that 
women, especially women who love country 
life, have a strategic position in the civil¬ 
ization of today. “Wed her to the soil 
and our civilization will continue to root 
in the soil.” If you will read “The Re¬ 
ligion Worth Having,” by Thomas Nixon 
Carver, page 137, that will be a help and 
a stimulus. 
I have helped get statistics with regard 
to our farm life, and I haven’t any pa¬ 
tience with them ! There are plenty of 
women other than farm women who have¬ 
n’t plumbing, electricity, short hours of 
work. And who wants them, and for 
what purpose will more leisure be used? 
For rocking or tatting (I almost put in 
an “1”!), or crocheted yokes? Why do 
not more people write as intelligently of 
the other side of farm life, with its 
chances for health, beauty, wealth, home¬ 
ly sociability, knowledge, wholesome rec¬ 
reational enjoyment; with its opportunity 
to help form a civilization “in full har¬ 
mony with the best American ideals,” as 
Dr. L. H. Railey says. 
Good and better schools we should and 
must have—and will when we co-operate 
more intelligently to that end ; meanwhile 
who shall measure the value of the school¬ 
ing of even the long, chorey hours of farm 
life if we live them in communion with 
nature and “in reverent fear of the Al¬ 
mighty which the humble-minded know 
best.” Out with the drudgery idea ! 
If you were other than three initials 
probably I should not be writing to you 
at such length. A common purpose, how¬ 
ever, makes us kin, and we country-mind¬ 
ed women must be loyal to our ideals for 
better country living. First, better homes. 
I should say. and better schools will come 
as a natural consequence. Rut it is hard 
on the present waiting generation, around 
whom the struggle rages. a. c. d. 
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