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The Farmer His 
Own Builder 
By H. Armstrong Roberts 
A practical and 
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information from 
concrete to carpen¬ 
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For sale by 
THE 
RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 W. 30th St., N. Y. 
9*# RURAL. NEW.YORKER 
Blueberry Cuttings 
My neighbor and myself have been very 
much interested in the article on Miss 
White’s blueberry culture, but we do not 
know what a blueberry cutting means. 
Would you tell ? I. L. R. 
Maine. 
A blueberry cutting is a little piece of 
the plant from which a new plant is 
started, a “slip.” Many people know 
something of starting geraniums from 
“slips” or “cuttings,” for geranium cut¬ 
tings root easily. On the other hand, it 
is difficult to get blueberry cuttings to 
root. 
Blueberry cuttings are usually made 
during the Fall or early Winter of wood 
of the preceding season's growth! The 
cutting is made H or 4 in. long, with the 
lower end cut with a very sharp knife 
just below a bud. When planted with 
the proper adjustment, of soil, light, heat 
and moisture the cutting will send out 
leafy twigs, roots will form at the lower 
end and it becomes a new little plant. 
Cuttings may also be made of older wood 
and of roots. To induce growth in these 
cuttings the conditions must he somewhat 
different from those required by the young 
wood cuttings. 
Tn order to produce large quantities of 
the very best blueberries that can be 
found it is necessary to learn the secret 
of starting these difficult cuttings, as 
blueberries do not “come true” from seed, 
but plants started from cuttings are prac¬ 
tically identical with the plant from 
which (lie cutting was taken. Dr. Fred¬ 
erick Y. Coville <>f tlie United States 
Department of Agriculture has discovered 
the underlying principles of rooting blue¬ 
berry cuttings, but many difficulties are 
encountered when we apply these to start¬ 
ing plants on a commercial scale. 
ELIZABETH C. WHITE. 
Protective Planting Along Stream 
Relative to V. O. T.'s letter on page 
830. concerning Russian mulberry for 
hedge. I have a problem I wish your ad¬ 
vice on. A small river flows along a por¬ 
tion of my land, forming a bluff bank, 
which keeps sloughing off. T am anxious 
to know if this Russian mulberry could 
be set out in edge of water, or under the 
water, and make sufficient growth to pre¬ 
vent the river bank from being washed 
oil'. If this Russian mulberry will not 
make vigorous growth in the water, will 
you let me know what kind of timber or 
shrubbery can he used for this purpose? 
Sparksvillc, Ind. J>- F. 
The Russian mulberry is not suitable 
for the river bank, but the white willow, 
Salix alba, is often used for this purpose. 
It forms a very extensive root system, 
which holds the soil together. It is not 
planted right in the water, but on the ad¬ 
jacent bank, and when once established 
will stand up against freshets, and is not. 
harmed by overflowing. The roots extend 
below the water line, and hold the soil. 
Some of the native cottonwoods common 
to the West are also desirable for this 
purpose. The cow oak or basket oak, 
Quercus Michauxii, finds a congenial 
home in bottom lands that are at. times 
submerged, swamps, and low banks along 
streams; other trees flourishing along 
streams are the water oak (Quercus 
nigra), red maple and Ohio buckeye. 
If desirable to extend the planting 
right into the water, the native button- 
bush (Cephalantlnis occidentalis) will 
grow with its stems submerged, and is a 
very attractive shrub. The common cat¬ 
tail. and varieties of arrowhead, make a 
mat of herbage that will protect the bor¬ 
ders of the stream while willows or other 
trees are growing. No doubt your State 
Experiment Station at Lafayette could 
give specific information adapted to local 
conditions. 
Killing Wild Honeysuckle 
I saw a request for information on 
clearing a hedge of honeysuckle without 
injuring the hedge* plants. I have had 
a similar experience with wild vines, one 
a poisonous ivy. which is very tenacious 
of life, and, like the honeysuckle, will 
choke out even quite large trees. I out 
off the main vine stalk, and as fast as a 
new shoot or sprout appeared I cut that 
off. and kept cutting whenever and wher¬ 
ever one appeared, but did not disturb 
the roots by digging. No vine or living 
plant can live long is not allowed to 
reach (lie light, and air, and if no sprouts 
are allowed to grow loaves it. will die 
sooner or later, accoi-ding to the enacity 
of life of the plant. It. is a tedious 
method, but I know of no other method 
without the hedge being injured 1 , and I 
know that perseverance will accomplish 
its destruction. Tut the vine just a little 
below the ground each time. Wild morn¬ 
ing-glory vines can be killed the same 
way. jessie. 
Cautious Doctor: “Excuse me for 
bringing you my bill, but you know how 
difficult it is to get money out of any¬ 
one’s heirs,”—Washington Post. 
A NEW BOOK for 
Dairymen 
V 
rnimm 
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dairy profits. 
It’s full of valuable in¬ 
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why to use concrete 
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milkhouses, watering 
troughs, silos, water 
storage tanks, barn¬ 
yard pavements — 
every necessary dairy 
farm building. 
Write our nearest 
District Office for your 
free copy. 
Remember! 
CONCRETE 
PORTLAND CEMENT ASSOCIATION 
347 Madison Avenue 
New York, N.Y 
Smii \ v yN\v 
Wheat 
Winter Oats 
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Use a fertilizer containing 
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